2003 ram manual remote start ultra start

The dome light immediately starts to dim once I close the door. Takes about 2-3 seconds to completely go out which would be a tolerable time to wait for me to finish the 'reservation' mode process.

I went to Radio Shack after work today to get all the stuff I needed to complete the project. For relays. . . . all they had were 40a SPST relays which I assume will work since I don't require the 87a pin for any of my needs. . . . . Am I correct? They did not have a 10A SPDT / SPST relay which was what I was planning on using for the clutch bypass. 1.) Can I use a 30 or 40 amp SPST? I assume the 30 or 40 just means up to and including 30 or 40 amps?   OR. . . . can anyone confirm the suspicion that a relay is not actually required and I can wire the GWR wire straight to the BROWN / yellow wire at the clutch switch as described in the previous posts? I appreciate kreg357's suggestion (and all his other help) that he believes that most newer Ultra Start units have circuit overload protection for their low current outputs but I would love to hear from someone that has actually done this bypass. I tried to find confirmation of said circuit overload protection on their literature to no avail. On a strange side note. . . .   Ultra Starters phone number as displayed on their box goes to some kind of people chat / dating hotline. . . . I thought I just dialed wrong buy no. . ..   each time I dial . . .. it's the same. I got more than I bargained for when I purchased this RS! Radio Shack had the two 1N4001 diodes I need. I need a 330 and 820 Ohm resistor.   They had 330 Ohm resistors with amp capacities of 1/4 , 1/2, and 1 amp. Which amperage resistor should I get? They did not however have any 820 Ohm resistors. Any suggestions? Thanks again for any and all help.

The SPST relays will work as long as Pin 87A is not required.  The 40A capacity is OK, just overkill.  A 10A relay is just a little smaller. Some of the full line auto stores will carry the relays.

The only place I could find the Ultra Start "overload protection" statement was on the info for a u1272, 3rd paprgraph down :  http://www.ultrastarters.com/Feature_Sheets/PRO_Feature%20Sheets%20PDF/1272XR-PRO.pdf

While there are sources for that exact size resistor, if you are in a hurry, buy 2 resister that add up to the value you need and connect them is series.  Look for a 150 ohm and a 680 ohm.  That will give you 830, which should be close enough.  1/2 watt is fine.  ( If you get the 5 Packs, use your meter to find the lowest ohm in each pack to get even closer.)

Here is a to another way to buy pass a clutch using a relay.  Use your DMM to "figure out" the clutch switch and wire accordingly.   https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=123887&KW=kreg357

Most major manufactures do not give Tech Support to DIYers, only authorized dealers. 

Soldering is fun!

Well thanks to several of you. . . .. The installation went reasonably well today. My vehicle starts remotely and locks and unlocks. . . . all the things I thought might be challenging were no problem. . . .. BUT I can not find the - horn wire or + Parking light wire. According to the wiring charts the - horn wire should be black / red. As shown below there were only two wires that are black with what might pass as a red stripe but both are + wires. I tried a couple of the smaller gauge wires randomly with no success either.    Any ideas? The parking light wire is supposed to be black / yellow and under the relay station under the hood. It is quite a bunch of wires but I did not see a definitive black with yellow. . . . though there are several dark blue with yellow. I thought about just tapping into the parking light relay above (just soldering to the appropriate pin) any ideas what pin I would connect to? Thanks again for all your help.

OK . . . . I have been pulling my hair out trying to figure out the horn wire. . . I tested every wire and for the ones that tested negative I clipped them and tried the horn. . .. no dice. So I went back to the black / red wire (which is supposed to be the correct wire according to the diagrams. . . . this is the one I previously mentioned tested positive instead of negative as it should). . .. .   and I clipped it and it is indeed the horn wire. It is very much a positive wire though and my output from my RS is negative. Is the below diagram the appropriate wiring for a relay to reverse the polarity? I checked several diagrams and they all show the horn should be negative. Is it really, really weird that mine is positive? Am I missing something? I can't find the correct positive wire for the parking light (my output is positive) which is under the relay center in the engine compartment. . . .. there are so many wires and they are hard to get to so I am going to just wire the negative wire in the cab. Is this the correct diagram: My output from the RS is fused at 10 amps. Can I just cut that fuse out or should I leave it in?