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remote starter 5901 on 98 4runner


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kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,619
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 22, 2010 at 7:26 PM / IP Logged  
With a manual transmission, you must be in TACH mode.  This will require running the Tach wire, Remote start input - 5-pin connector   VIOLET/WHITE Tachometer input, to a suitable tach signal source.  Also you must change the Vipers programming, Menu 3, Menu Item 2 to Option 4.  Next the Tach Learn process must be successfully done.
Soldering is fun!
tonhu1969 
Member - Posts: 12
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Joined: November 19, 2010
Posted: November 23, 2010 at 6:01 AM / IP Logged  

Hi Kreg 357,

Thank you for you help.  I do have a manual transmission, it has been  hooked up in TACH mode. I connected  the Tach wire! , Remote start input - 5-pin connector   VIOLET/WHITE Tachometer input, to a suitable tach signal source.  Also  I changed the Vipers programming, Menu 3, Menu Item 2 to Option 4.  The Tach Learn process has been successfully done.  I found that I don't have +12 Volt on  either Green and Violet  ( starter car/key side) when the remote tried to start.  The remote said " Remote start Off " as soon as I initial MTS completed (after door closed and arned the system).  The MTS set up process done and shut off the engine when I arm the truck at the ens as it should be. 

Thanks a bunch again!

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 23, 2010 at 6:06 AM / IP Logged  
Temporarily join green and violet (purple) together then try a remote start. Let me know what happens.
tonhu1969 
Member - Posts: 12
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Joined: November 19, 2010
Posted: November 23, 2010 at 6:52 AM / IP Logged  

HI Kreg 357,

I am guessing that there must me some set off programing in the brain or something that will not allow it enable the remote starter function.  Because as soon as I completed MTS mote, the display on the remote show that "Remote Starter Off".  I think that the brain will not enter/enable to allow the power to the Violet wire to the starter of the car.  At the key start function, the power will be transfered from the cyclinder swith to the Green wire (Gree/Black on ignition hardness) with activates the starter.  But when remote start, the brain will provide power straigh to the Violet wire to the starter.  Am I correct\?  I need to find out if the 5 flashing when I tried to remote start (brake swith is on actice), the brake switch has already triggered the brain that will kill the starter enable mode.  There are 4 wire in the brake switch, 2 for the cruise control and other 2 for brake light.  I connected the brain wire to GREEN / WHITE on the brake switch like manual says.  I really appiciate your help!

tonhu1969 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 19, 2010
Posted: November 23, 2010 at 7:00 AM / IP Logged  

Hi Kreg 357, ( duplicated due to misspelling)

I am guessing that there must be some set off programing in the brain or something that will not allow it enable the remote starter function.  Because as soon as I completed MTS mote, the display on the remote showed that "Remote Starter Off".  I think that the brain will not enter/enable to allow the power out put to the Violet wire to the starter of the car.  At the key start function, the power will be transffered from the cyclinder swith to the Green wire (Gree/Black on ignition hardness) which activates the starter.  But when remote start, the brain will provide power straigh to the Violet wire to the starter.  Am I correct\?  I need to find out if the 5 flashing when I tried to remote start (brake swith is on active), the brake switch has already triggered the brain that will kill the starter enable mode.  There are 4 wire in the brake switch, 2 for the cruise control and other 2 for brake light.  I connected the brain wire to GREEN / WHITE on the brake switch like manual says.  I really appreciate your help!

tonhu1969 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 19, 2010
Posted: November 23, 2010 at 7:06 AM / IP Logged  

Hi again,

Does it matter if I connected like these:

             Viper                                                                                                               4Runner Ignition Switch

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT                                                               BLACK / YELLOW (+)
H3/2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87                       WHITE (+) Constant
H3/3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT                                                                  BLUE/RED (+)
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)      GREEN/ BLACK (+) or BLACK (+) car side
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)         GREEN/ BLACK (+) or BLACK (+) key side
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT                                                       WHITE (+) Constant
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT                                      BLACK/ RED (+)
H3/8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY    Not Used
H3/9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT                            WHITE (+) Constant
H3/10 N/C N/C.

Would H3/2 ( RED / White) , H3/6 (Red), and H3/9 RED / Black) are  connected to the same White (+) constant which may cause too much draw that may drop and provide not enough Voltage to the brain?

kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,619
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 23, 2010 at 9:31 AM / IP Logged  

For the Viper power wires:  If the 4Runners White (+) 12v Constant wire at the ignition switch is a thick, heavy gauge, it is no problem for all 3 wires from the H3 harness to be connected ( soldered ) to the one single wire.  ( I believe it is rated at 40A.)

Five blinks means a brake shutdown.  As a test, you can temporarily disconnect the Viper Brake input wire.  You will need a Digital Multi Meter to verify the wires at the brake pedal switches.

Also, Howard has made a great suggestion in temporarily bypasing the Starter Kill function.

Soldering is fun!
tonhu1969 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 19, 2010
Posted: November 23, 2010 at 2:00 PM / IP Logged  

Hi again,

I tested the brake switch and GREEN / WHITE provided +12 with brake applied and 0 at released.  Also, the sitch itself is in good functional condition with a strong normal return spring.  So, the brake input id reliable and no intermittent at all.  Thanks again!

moonliter 
Copper - Posts: 322
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Joined: February 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: November 23, 2010 at 4:00 PM / IP Logged  
I didn't see anything about how you did the bypass on the clutch switch ? Had you try to remote start with the clutch pedal pressed ?
tonhu1969 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 19, 2010
Posted: November 23, 2010 at 7:30 PM / IP Logged  

Hi all,

I have tried to remote start with automatic transmission mode.  It didn't do anything but turned on the instrument panel lighst (like when I started the truck with key as normal).  There were a few clicks from relay in the enging compartment.  There were also no flashing light but the remote screen said "remote start error"

When I set to manual mode ( with completed MTS mode done) then started the truck, it did nothing with the same results above but I got flashing with 5 times code (this included without bypass clutch, with clutch pedal depress, with safety switch button engaged, with jumper wire installed in the clutch switch unplugged).  However, right after I completed MTS, When I pushed arm, the enging turned off like it should be but the remote starter said "remote started off".  This may be a key that some circuits shut off remote to become starter kill (disable).  I don't think the brain is bad because the alarm works just fine.  I connected all the wire (soldered) where they should be.  Can you give me an idea?

Thanks a bunch in advance!

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