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ohm load do i have a clue?


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gtdhw 
Member - Posts: 26
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Joined: November 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 26, 2010 at 1:32 PM / IP Logged  

sq1500 wrote:
no it would be this
two 8 ohm subs
190Wx2@2ohms
so
190W @ 2ohm per sub
95W @4ohm per sub
47.5W @8ohm per sub

I thought I had it until this.

Why would two 8 ohm subs be 190x2 @ 2 ohms?

And why would it be 95W@ 4ohm per sub when the amp says 125W@ 4 ohm x2?

Just your average 12 second station wagon.
gtdhw 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 26, 2010 at 1:37 PM / IP Logged  

sq1500 wrote:
SOUNDING better doesn't rely on how much power you're putting out. SOUNDING better relies on sound quality worthy subs, amps, processors, head units, boxes, tuning, etc. what you are asking is based on what will be louder. in which the 400/800 would be fine for that 300 or so watts

Decent head unit Kenwood MP 345u. Decent amp Pioneer GM-5100t. Decent subs RF P1's or RF P2's. I also have a sealed box with the right specs for these subs, and a vented box with the right specs for these subs.

I am trying very hard to do this right, and to maximise everything in the system to it's full potential.

Just your average 12 second station wagon.
gtdhw 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 26, 2010 at 1:42 PM / IP Logged  
gtdhw wrote:

sq1500 wrote:
no it would be this
two 8 ohm subs
190Wx2@2ohms
so
190W @ 2ohm per sub
95W @4ohm per sub
47.5W @8ohm per sub

I thought I had it until this.

Why would two 8 ohm subs be 190x2 @ 2 ohms?

And why would it be 95W@ 4ohm per sub when the amp says 125W@ 4 ohm x2?

Nevermind. I was just reading it wrong. I understand. I was just taking the 125W@ 4 (as stated on the amp)and cutting it in half to get 75.

Just your average 12 second station wagon.
sq1500 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2010
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: November 26, 2010 at 1:44 PM / IP Logged  
because when i answered that, your question was regarding hooking up two 8 ohm subs SEPERATELY in stereo mode (one to each channel) when you do one sub to one channel the load on the amp will be whatever the ohms of the sub are
JL HD 1200.1 $700
JL HD 600.4 $500
TWO (2) JL 8W7 $600
pm me
sq1500 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2010
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: November 26, 2010 at 1:45 PM / IP Logged  
NP
JL HD 1200.1 $700
JL HD 600.4 $500
TWO (2) JL 8W7 $600
pm me
gtdhw 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 26, 2010 at 1:54 PM / IP Logged  

sq1500 wrote:
NP

Last question I guess.

Will this minimal amount of power (<500W) require the use of a capacitor?

Just your average 12 second station wagon.
sq1500 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2010
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: November 26, 2010 at 1:58 PM / IP Logged  
gtdhw wrote:

sq1500 wrote:
NP

Last question I guess.

Will this minimal amount of power (<500W) require the use of a capacitor?

i do not believe in caps personally. because it is just adding another load on your alternator. now, when the amp draws power from the cap, the cap must charge back up which is the job of the alternator. now your alt. is charging both the battery and cap. but anyway, if you have a good electrical system really, you shouldn't need a cap. you may get a cap though if your lights start dimming and such, but like i said it's just another load on your alternator, which in the longrun will damage your alt. but if you do get one make sure it has a quick discharge rate
JL HD 1200.1 $700
JL HD 600.4 $500
TWO (2) JL 8W7 $600
pm me
gtdhw 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 26, 2010 at 2:15 PM / IP Logged  
sq1500 wrote:
gtdhw wrote:

sq1500 wrote:
NP

Last question I guess.

Will this minimal amount of power (<500W) require the use of a capacitor?

i do not believe in caps personally. because it is just adding another load on your alternator. now, when the amp draws power from the cap, the cap must charge back up which is the job of the alternator. now your alt. is charging both the battery and cap. but anyway, if you have a good electrical system really, you shouldn't need a cap. you may get a cap though if your lights start dimming and such, but like i said it's just another load on your alternator, which in the longrun will damage your alt. but if you do get one make sure it has a quick discharge rate

Thanks sq, really, you have been a ton of help.

Since you seem to be very good at this, I have a challenge if you think you are up to it. I have a mid '90's Lanzar OptiDrivePlus 50 that has been in use non stop since I got it second hand in '97. I can find next to nothing about this amp (other than Ampguts saying it is 25Wx2@ 2 / 50Wx1@ 4. This just can't be anywhere near true. I know that old school Lanzars are under-rated, but the old, small, Lanzar pushes 1 or 2 12's better than this Pioneer 760W and better than my old school RF Puch 250.2 It has pushed everything that I have ever thrown at it with absolutely 0 issues. Any way to find out what it is actually capable of? How stable it is?

Just your average 12 second station wagon.
gtdhw 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 26, 2010 at 2:25 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry, 25Wx2@ 4 / 50Wx1@ 4
Just your average 12 second station wagon.
sq1500 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2010
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: November 26, 2010 at 2:25 PM / IP Logged  
gtdhw wrote:
sq1500 wrote:
gtdhw wrote:

sq1500 wrote:
NP

Last question I guess.

Will this minimal amount of power (<500W) require the use of a capacitor?

i do not believe in caps personally. because it is just adding another load on your alternator. now, when the amp draws power from the cap, the cap must charge back up which is the job of the alternator. now your alt. is charging both the battery and cap. but anyway, if you have a good electrical system really, you shouldn't need a cap. you may get a cap though if your lights start dimming and such, but like i said it's just another load on your alternator, which in the longrun will damage your alt. but if you do get one make sure it has a quick discharge rate

Thanks sq, really, you have been a ton of help.

Since you seem to be very good at this, I have a challenge if you think you are up to it. I have a mid '90's Lanzar OptiDrivePlus 50 that has been in use non stop since I got it second hand in '97. I can find next to nothing about this amp (other than Ampguts saying it is 25Wx2@ 2 / 50Wx1@ 4. This just can't be anywhere near true. I know that old school Lanzars are under-rated, but the old, small, Lanzar pushes 1 or 2 12's better than this Pioneer 760W and better than my old school RF Puch 250.2 It has pushed everything that I have ever thrown at it with absolutely 0 issues. Any way to find out what it is actually capable of? How stable it is?

this isn't the model number of the amp is it? Lanzar OptiDrivePlus 50 i don't think it is.
like jl's amps are jl 1000.1/v2 etc.
look at the model number somewhere on the amp (might even be inside the amp) and look it up online.
otherwise you can perform a bench test (to find true rms wattage) and I unfortunately do not know how to do that
JL HD 1200.1 $700
JL HD 600.4 $500
TWO (2) JL 8W7 $600
pm me
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