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530t window module in trailblazer


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kuchar09 
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Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: January 03, 2011 at 12:11 AM / IP Logged  
I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer that I just installed a Viper 5901. Now the only thing I have left to do is wire up the window module to the motors and switches. I could get the windows to work with the remote at first but not the window switches, but now its hit n miss... one goes down only and the other goes up when I lock the car.
Both of my windows have the one touch down feature already and I think that's causing my problem but I am not sure.
I am starting to think that the 530T will not work with the Trailblazer.
Any Opinions?
Any wire diagrams or advice would be greatly appreciated.
howie ll 
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Posted: January 03, 2011 at 6:21 AM / IP Logged  
Did you wire directly to the motor wires in each door?
kuchar09 
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Posted: January 03, 2011 at 7:23 AM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Did you wire directly to the motor wires in each door?
In the passenger door I did, but in the drivers door I mounted closer to the switch since I didn't want to pull apart the what insulation stuff at first. But now I can get right to the wires at the motor, so possibly I could try getting closer to the motor on the drivers door.
Another thing I noticed is when I tested the cut wires the go to the towards the switch(I believe) I would only get a quick pulse of about 3V when I pressed down on the door control then would drop to 0. I then re hooked the motor back up to how it was originally and when the window motor is moving from the switch I get about 12 V on both wires(up and down).
If I remember right
Driver Motor is UP is Blue, DOWN is Brown
Passenger Motor is UP Lt. Blue, Down is Tan
And yes I am mounting heavy gauge wire towards motor and I also ran the passenger up,down motor and switch wires into the passenger door.
Maybe I'll try and take pictures later.
Thanks
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: January 03, 2011 at 8:39 AM / IP Logged  
A couple of thoughts.
Slightly heavier gauge wire, extend the live and ground wires directly to your car battery, fuse the live at the battery.
kuchar09 
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Joined: January 03, 2011
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Posted: January 03, 2011 at 9:09 AM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
A couple of thoughts.
Slightly heavier gauge wire, extend the live and ground wires directly to your car battery, fuse the live at the battery.
Ok, I'll give that a try.
So this should be able to work with my windows?
And where I cut the 2 wires going to the motor is where all 4 of my wires connect, correct? The 2 heavy guage wires go toward the motor, while the light guage wires go the opposite way toward the switch from where I cut at the motor?
Thanks for all your help!!!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: January 03, 2011 at 10:37 AM / IP Logged  
Yes.
kuchar09 
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Posted: January 03, 2011 at 1:18 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Yes.
Well I ran the power and 3 ground cables to the battery and when I try it I hear a click but nothing happens. Same when I try the buttons.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: January 03, 2011 at 1:50 PM / IP Logged  
Time to get out your DMM and see what's happening.
Test by lowering the windows then grounding the orange wires.
kuchar09 
Member - Posts: 16
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Joined: January 03, 2011
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Posted: January 03, 2011 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Time to get out your DMM and see what's happening.
Test by lowering the windows then grounding the orange wires.
Can you be more specific on what to test please. The drivers door switch has 4 heavy guage wire orange, blue, brown, and blake. The orange has constant 12V, blue 12V while going up, 12V while going down, and the black is ground I beileve. I just noticed when I locked my car my passenger window went down, so I'm going to switch the wires and se what happens. The driver door does nothing. I though for sure I had the wires correct... guess not.
But yea if you could give me more info on what to test for... thanks
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: January 03, 2011 at 4:18 PM / IP Logged  
Somewhere near each motor should be 2 wires going into each motor.
They should both be negative at rest.
Turn on the ignition then motor UP that window.
One wire should stay at neg whilst the other should read 12v+.
The one reading 12 volts is the "up motor wire" the other if you then motor down the window should read 12v+ whilst the other should stay neg.
That would be the "motor down wire".
Those would be the two you cut and join to the 530t. Repeat for the other window.
This is a type 1 and is in the instructions.
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