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06 f250 diesel, viper 5901


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tony_g 
Copper - Posts: 86
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: January 16, 2011 at 6:29 PM / IP Logged  
neither does my car but you should be able to use the factory alarm rearm wire on the harness coming from the viper and connect it to the bcm side of the doorpin wire,when you shutdown the r/s with the remote or when it times out it should send a pulse down that wire and will turn off the rap without physically needing a door to be opened and closed
wmccue 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: December 05, 2010
Posted: January 18, 2011 at 11:50 PM / IP Logged  

Tony G thanks for that reply on the door triggers for the 2001 f-250.  I found my door triggers and diode isolated them, now i have a new problem.  The door triggers work great now instantly instead of being on a timed delay with the dome light as they were done before.

However now i got this problem after about 30 minutes my doors trigger and the alarm sounds off. After several runs out to the driveway with my shotgun in hand i realized i got something going on with the wiring but am confused.  Anybody want to enlighten me? I think i'm getting a pulse somewhere.  

 I found only three door trigger wires for four doors?? one wire goes to the two rear doors and one each to the front two.  independently.  I did not cut the door trigger wire i stabbed the band side of the diode into the doors wire, and soldered them in. the other side of th diode i soldered wire to it and tied all three door trigger wires together and temporarily wire nutted them to the alarms negative trigger wire.  Did i do this wrong?  

Hats off to to anyone with some advice.

2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry
tony_g 
Copper - Posts: 86
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: January 19, 2011 at 12:39 AM / IP Logged  
sounds similar to my initial problem with false alarms, i would be sitting comfortably on the recliner watchin tv then would hear the 2 way remote start playing its funky alarm activation tone and would jump up like a jack rabbit whos just been shot in the a#$ so fast it would scare the baby and set him off, id go running out to the car and start checking the exterior thinking someones tried to get into it and it would all be fine. the valet would give me 3 flashes indicating a door trigger input so i would check all the doors were secure rearm and it would be fine. this happened for a couple of days before i did a search and found  some info that pointed out that most fords need to be double diode isolated as when the bcm goes into a low power "sleep" state it sometimes sends a small surge out which is enough to be picked up by the viper as a door being opened and to set the alarm off. ever since i double diode isolated the doorpins i have not had one false alarm at all, sounds like you might have to do the same good thing is it does'nt take too long. did you manage to get the radio to shut off on r/s with the rearm wire in the end?
monty_77 
Copper - Posts: 491
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2009
Location: North Dakota, United States
Posted: January 19, 2011 at 12:47 AM / IP Logged  
here look at this heres your answers
wmccue 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: December 05, 2010
Posted: January 19, 2011 at 9:28 AM / IP Logged  

< language=> Monty do you have one of these for an 01 f-250?  Tony_G I didn't have the problem with my radio because the 01 fords don't have this feature. I know what you mean my work truck is an 08 superduty and the radio stays on untill you open the doors. So anyway Luckily i didn't have to deal with that on the 01.

Might I ask again How do you double diode isolate? And do you think this will solve the problem if i go back and do over this way? and also Did I do the single diode isolation properly as i explained in one of my earlier posts?

I might add that when I installed the diodes I used 1AMP diodes but when i completed the work I noticed the radio shack diode package said "Assorted 1AMP diodes" some said 1N-004 some 1N-002 some 1N-006 etc. I know that two of them were 1N-004, but the third was heat shrinked before i realized this. Originally i thought they were all the same.

This alarm install has been a rewarding experience! I've been forced to learn a lot about electronics, and my six year old has got one hell of a throwing arm now after opening and closing doors by his calculation some 600+times.  I'm glad i did this but still hope I never have to do this again!

2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry
monty_77 
Copper - Posts: 491
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2009
Location: North Dakota, United States
Posted: January 19, 2011 at 12:56 PM / IP Logged  
yes i do have one for a 2001 f-250 PM me an email or email me and i will send it to you.
the diodes will work they are all one amp should not be a problem there
wmccue 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: December 05, 2010
Posted: January 19, 2011 at 7:57 PM / IP Logged  

Here's another question.

Instead of diode isolating each door trigger why couldn't a person just stick in one diode in the wire going to the alarms negative door trigger wire.  wouldn't this do the same thing since each door trigger ties into this?

2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: January 19, 2011 at 8:19 PM / IP Logged  
No it won't! Dioding each trigger prevents one from feeding to the other and then the alarm causing yoru faults, so no dioding the way you suggested is a no, no, to put it nicely.
wmccue 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: December 05, 2010
Posted: January 19, 2011 at 8:30 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks t&t,

I diode isolated each trigger wire ...Just can't seem to figure out why i'm getting a door trigger error exactly 30 minutes after i arm the system.

2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry
monty_77 
Copper - Posts: 491
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2009
Location: North Dakota, United States
Posted: January 19, 2011 at 11:24 PM / IP Logged  
that is because you are getting a signal from the bcm every thirty minute and that the reason for false triggers.
that is why you need two diodes per wire.
if you look at the last page of the link i put in this post you will see how to do it right. it does show how to put the diodes in there
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