clifford 20.7x

Door open or closed should not be an issue. It should attempt to start three times before it stops and reports a NO START.  I can take a unit and bench test it. It will attempt to remote start  three times and then stop. Reporting a no start error.

It is sounding like a loose connection. You could take the heavy gauge harness off of the brain and check the pins of that harness on the red, RED / White, and the RED / Black for 12 volts. If that checks out, reconnect it (tightly) and then check the pink and violet wires at the solder joints for voltage when you try to remote start. You should see 12 volts at those wires.  Fuses Good???  Check all of you harness to make sure they are firmly connected.  Even the antenna connections.

When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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The emergency brake has to be engaged for this thing to crank. I had run out of ideas, so I gave that a try, and it worked. This is odd, not only that but it also unlocks my doors which is OK if I had a wire connected to the door circuit. So now I am down to the db-all problem, all I get is the flashing red light. The trouble shooting guide says I may not have it wired correctly, there are only 4 wires and the D2D wires to connect. Joe

What wire from the remote start do you have connected to the emergency brake??  And what unlocks the doors?When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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I don't have any wire connected to the emergency brake. I'm trying to use the least amount of wiring possible. I'm thinking there is some correlation between the e-brake and door unlock because I don't have wire connected to either one. The main power harness has 7 of 8 wires used. 12 pin harness: red-constant 12v. black-ground brown-horn white-parking lights 5 pin input harness: BLACK/ white-neutral safety violet/white-tach input brown-brake shutdown gray-hood pin switch The rest of the wiring not being used is mainly auxiliary, turbo,diesel and such. I mainly wanted this R/S to start the car and lock/unlock doors, and later hook up rear defroster. Oh and the LCD is a nice touch too. Joe

BLACK/ white neutral safety to either switch at base of handbrake or warning light on instrument panel.

I know less is more but absolute minimums still have to be done!

According to the manual the BLACK/ white wire should be connected to ground if car is automatic and handbrake if manual trans. But I will give it a try.

I did use the wires listed below. The main power harness has 7 of 8 wires used. 12 pin harness: red-constant 12v. black-ground brown-horn white-parking lights 5 pin input harness: BLACK/ white-ground violet/white-tach input brown-brake shutdown gray-hood pin switch

OK, I finally got it going. First I had to re-flash the db-all module, it had a Chrysler program in it instead of the Chevy program. So the engine started but only ran 5-8 seconds. After some poking around I found that the brake wire had 5 volts coming out of it causing the R/S to shut down. I figured out that because I was using LED turn signals and tail lights that incorporated resistors in the wiring somehow allowed 5 volts in the brake wire. I returned everything back to original and now it works great. Thanks to all for your input. Joe