inline fuse and measuring vpwr wire amps?

The answer to your first question is yes, you can make the connection anywhere on that wire. No they wouldn't have to find the switch, simply disconnect the grounding wire. Make sure you SOLDER, TAPE over and STEALTH the connection.

Sorry just to make sure I follow you, as long as my wired switch and the wire for the switch are hidden they cannot start the car correct? Or are you stating that all they need to do is disconnect the ign coil ground wire? PS The wire runs from the EEC to a resistor to my tfi module and also to my coil. Does the resistor affect anything?

Opps, I can't edit my post so I must add a reply. I just want to make sure it's not easy to bypass my switched grounding wire. If all they have to do is easily ghetto rig a wire and run the car then this may not be a good option for me. Howie-you mention that you could find the wire easily or get around this type of anti theft device?

The whole point is that you're an amateur and a newbie, I've been doing this kind of work since 1972 and NO after market immobiliser has held me off more than the 3-5 mins. to strip and find, the 2 mins. to rewire and another 2 mins. to put the car together. An alarm with remote control from a reputable manufacturer is a much better bet

But I don't understand how you could find it if its tucked deep into the dash and only actuated using a remote control switch connected to a relay.    Unless you are bypassing it. In that case what is needed to bypass this type of anti theft device if you cannot located the switch and grounding wire? And I understand I'm new to this but in the time you spent telling me that I shouldn't do this we could have been more productive. The front page of 12volt.com says the site is here for "do it yourself" technical assistance and tips and tricks of the trade.

Apologies, I didn't consider the remote control relay, since that eliminates the switch.

Howard beats me on both this sort of expertise (like, he blows me away!). And he has 10% extra years too. ITO the coil's -ve circuit, yes - all that needs doing is disconnect that; disconnect the other end (points or ignitor); and join those 2 with a new wire. There are some provisos though. The ignitor isn't always in the distributor - you the may have to disconnect & bridge the dizzy to ignitor (which could also be ground shorted) AS WELL AS the IgCoil to ignitor as before. Or the dizzy timing may be fixed and the EMS provides the timing (advance/retard etc) which then feeds the ignitor. Usually the dizzy is timed so that it will be good enough for starting and low RPM, but it could be way off that so that dizzy to ignitor (bypassing the EMS) is useless. Whether switch or relay doesn't change the method of defeat, but a switch could be easier to find. Then again, a relay with remote requires the remote, its batteries etc. And it is more complex hence - in simple terms - more prone to failure. But I recall a simple yet effective thief deterrent a (555) timer that - unless disabled - would turn on every (say) 20 seconds for (say) 10 seconds and energise a points-shorting relay. Any thief would probably think it's an engine fault rather than an anti-theft device. IE - start and run for 10-20 secs, then cutout and not start nor run for 10 secs, then run again until it cut out. Bad luck if the got it as far as the freeway or railway crossing though. And there is always the 125dB internal sirens etc. You enter the vehicle (or house) and get a 5 or 10 sec warning peep, then 10 seconds later if not turned off - a deafening LOUD scream....