safe to wire pin 30 to pin 86?

i am an idiot wrote: It does not matter where it gets put on the wire.  It can be before 30.  I always solder the diode to the base of 85 and 86.  Place the relay on the edge of a table or bench, set the diode on the relay and bend the legs to the appropriate length, solder the legs to 85 and 86, this leaves plenty room to install the connectors to the terminals of the relay.  It makes a neat install and it is more maintenence free than soldering the diode to a wire that is subject to moving.

I hear ya, but i am using relay sockets which eliminate the chance of me doing this.

Yeah - effectively Idiot means the same - wire direct between the socket pins... It's a pity an early post Diodes across relay coil doesn't include a simple pic like... .. but without the RHS resistor and cap. The diode as shown is the same as a quenching diode. Maybe the next is better?

The last relay socket I used, you can easily remove the pins from the socket. This should give you access to the bare pin which you can then solder directly to. It is not as "stable" as soldering directly to the relay legs but as a bonus you will have a permanent diode installed for that particular socket. At least with this method you will have the advantage of the socket holding the pins fairly snug as opposed to attaching the diode to wires only.

It's

Sorry too fast for my own good. Two points: a) It's EASY to solder the diode to the relay pins right at the base and then add the socket. b) Those receptacles are easy to remove using the straight tool from a Snap-On or similar pick set or a thin bladed electrical screwdriver, just inset to the tab, push home the tab and out it comes. In fact I still have loads of those receptacles and a non -insulated crimping tool.

it's even easier to solder the diode in place if you lightly file the terminals on the outside edge with a small file. shape the diode leads like the lower portion of an 'H'...use pliers to give sharp 90 degree bends. place along outer edges then use bend the remaining tail back under each terminal. solder then trim with cutters. you could always use a cable tie around the relay/socket combo to hold said assembly together. mark

The diode will not affect the relay socket.  It will still go on easily.

And here I am usually recommending to solder to the socket so that you can substitute relays for testing or replace faulty ones.... Then again, soldering direct to the relay is the ideal and - with spare relays with diodes - the quickest way to replace a faulty diode (if you somehow notice it....!). But then - make sure you stick to the -ve #85 and +ve #86 convention!! (Diode in the socket or harness doesn't matter - that simply matches the wiring...) And I don't see that the "insecure" connection between the diode/socket and relay is much of an issue - if the spike gets to the socket, then it will be quenched. However, I can see the unreliability of sockets. (I stopped using sockets for integrated circuits etc years ago and soldered IC for automotive applications - even they would vibrate or oxidise bad.) Comment: So many opinions - all valid. IE - diode direct on relay pins is short; on socket or harness is "universal", etc. But I do like the DIY diode addition - I dislike relays with internal diodes (cost; what if they blow? etc).

As I already said this you are absolutely right Mr.I, this thread is starting to get silly.

I was going to solder a diode to the bottom of a relay to show how I do it.  I summoned a relay and a diode from the bay, they brought me a 6 amp diode.  They said we were out of 1 amp devices.  So needless to say, I have no pictures today.