07 350z viper 5701 manual trans

I recently uninstalled a python 881xp with 689m manual trans module from my 07 350z that i put on it a couple years back.  I am currently installing the 5701 on it since i needed a farther range.

current status-  all wiring is hooked up.  and i am staring on a clutch bypass relay.  the alarm is in "mts" mode, tach is in "tachometer" mode, flex relay is in "2nd started mode" so everything should be good to go.  I had an extra relay wired for 2nd starter that I took out, and I also uninstalled the 689m since it will not be needed with the 5701.  Since the 689m took care of it i now need to wire in a clutch bypass realy.

here are my questions:

question 1:clutch relay wiring: 

the clutch switch, when made, just connects the wires together (to ground).  so i was thinking of wiring the bypass relay as follows so the relay coil will only be energized if the hand brake is engaged for the -, and the starter is energized for the + of the coil.  this would then connect the two sides of the clutch switch and the car should be able to start. 

85 starter +

86 handbrake -

87 one side of clutch switch

30 other side of clutch switch

question 2:

i havent been able to find the shutdown sequence anywhere in the manual or online.  is it the same as the sequence for 689m.

foot on brake, engage handbrake, release foot brake, remotestart takeover, exit car, car shutsdown.

thanks in advance, i have installed tons of automatic trans RS, but this is only the second manual trans, since the shop i used to work at didnt allow ANY manual trans installs for obvious reasons.

Here is a link to the online 5701 Owners Manual : 

http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/OG/Viper/G5202V%202011-03%20web2.pdf

Here is the procedure from the manual:

Manual Transmission Start (MTS mode)

When installed into a manual transmission vehicle, the system requires

that the MTS mode is properly set when parking. If MTS mode is not

properly set or is defeated after being properly set the system will not

start the engine.

1. With the engine running, set the parking brake and leave the

engine running. For Pit Stop or Turbo Timer mode (to leave the

engine running after arming), open the driver door.

2. Release the foot brake (if pressed during Step 1), or press and

release the foot brake anytime. As long as the engine is running

there is no time limit to perform this step.

3. Within 20 seconds of foot brake release, press any command

button on the remote, after 20 seconds return to Step 2 (For Turbo

Timer Mode, press the optional dash mounted activation button

or send the Timer Mode command.

4. The parking lights flash 5 times to confirm MTS mode enable and

the remote start activates the ignition outputs. The Remote Start

LED and On tones play to confirm.

5. Turn Off and remove the key from the ignition switch, the engine

remains running.

6. Exit the vehicle, close all the doors and arm the system.

7. The engine turns off and after a few seconds, the Remote Start

LED and Off tones play to confirm. If the door is opened in Step

3 then the engine continues to run.

Soldering is fun!

Thanks, that isnt in the manual that i have that came with the 5701 or somehow i overlooked it many times.

does the relay wiring that i posted look like a good configuration?

i will get it all buttoned up when my new soldering iron gets to the house.  my snapon yaks1 finally died on me after about 7 years of good service.

on a side note, the yaks1 kit from snapon is the same as the weller postisol psi100k super-pro kit.  same butane torch rebadged by weller for $62 on amazon rather than $162 from snapon.

Don't do too many manual cars, but your relay wiring is OK and will bypass the clutch no matter what type of signal ( + or - ) is passed thru the switch.  Is that (+) Starter signal coming directly from the Viper and not attached to the car? ( Your car has two Starter wires and both should be connected, using the VipersStarter and Flex relay outputs.) If it also connects to the cars' Starter wire, the normal key start will trigger the relay too and the engine will crank even if you don't have your foot depressing the clutch. An easier way would be to use the Vipers (-) Starter Output on Pin 85 and +12v constant on Pin 86. Using the Parking Brake signal is nice but there is the Neutral Safety Switch.

Where are you connecting the Neutral Safety Switch wire from the Viper?

A quality soldering iron is a beautiful thing!

Soldering is fun!

thanks for the input.  it would be just as easy to use the - starter from the viper on 85 and ign or constant 12v on 86.  i didnt think of the clutch being bypassed at all times.  i was trying to avoid that.  i figured it would be another level of protection having the handbrake supply the - relay.  since i like to use relays and overcomplicate i think i will use two relays wired like:

relay 1

85 starter +12V

86 handbrake -

87 one side of clutch switch

30 to pin 87 on relay 2

relay 2

85 +12 ignition

86 - starter from viper

87 from pin 30 on relay 1

30 to other side of clutch switch

---so for the clutch to be bypassed the handbrake would have to be engaged, get a - stater from viper from viper.

---when starting the car with the key the clutch will not be able to be electronically bypassed since relay 2 would not be getting a signal from the viper.

That relay setup will work fine and only bypass the clutch switch during a remote start.  If you really want to make things easier and more complicated at the same time, check out this post :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~115164~KW~Nissan+350~PN~1~TPN~1

As noted by Howard ( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=126736&KW=howie+ll ) , most newer cars have a "Transmission in Neutral" signal input for use by the ECU.  Finding it and using it as the Neutral Safety Switch input will truly allow the car to remote start only when safely in neutral. 

Soldering is fun!

thanks. i just finished up the install a few hours ago. i ended up using the 2 relay method i posted, but used +12v starter for each relay and handbrake - for one relay and strater - from viper for the other relay. i changed the starter time to 1.2 seconds to make sure the relays had time to energize during crank. i initially hooked the +12v starter to the "green" wire side of the realy, but remembered that the "starter kill" would keep the switchside of the starter wire de-energized while armed. it was a quick fix re connecting the wire to the "purple" side of the starter. all is working good, thanks for the help and input.

today was the first time that I have driven my Z after finishing the install.  Everything is working properly, but I have an odd issue with the Clutch bypass relays I wired up.  The clutch as stated before sends a ground to the open connection of the clutch switch when the clutch switch is depressed.

the issue I am having is:

When i press the clutch, the "brake" light illuminates as if the handbrake is pulled. 

this is more of an annoyance that a problem.  anybody know of a solution.  i guess i could probably diode isolate the clutch from the bypass relay at pin 86 of relay 1.  it seems like the ground from pressing the clutch is bleeding through to the hand brake wire at that pin, but i am not sure how that is happenning.  the coil of the relay should be isolated from the i/o side of the relay and only coupled by the magnetic field when the relay is energized.  the relays are not being energized when the clutch is depressed.

relay 1

85 starter +

86 handbrake -

87 one side of clutch switch

30 to pin 87 on relay 2

relay 2

85 starter + (same connection as 85 on relay 1)

86 - starter from viper

87 from pin 30 on relay 1

30 to other side of clutch switch

Does the problem go away if you disconnect (-) Handbrake input to Pin 86 of  Relay 1? Soldering is fun!

I havent had time to look into it yet maybe tonight. I have comeup with another circuit to use. Ill post later.