clifford in a mk7 transit

Are you saying all 5 wires come back to C3? I have everything working (added bonnet switch) any door turns on all dome lights, 606i has interior light overide so will activate, and operates perfectly, sonics, microwave ect, but cant locate locking wire.

OK with electrics, relays ect, but no expert on transits or deadlocks/motors. I have guessed that a standard digital meter will be fine for this task. read on this site about the elusive deadlock wire (yellow) is this a myth?

I am as about day 5 with this problem, it must be somewhere on this connector as if you unplug it then no locks work, unplug one side of it (splits into 2 plugs inside connector) an it locks but signals door still open (one horn beep). Etis tell you door signals go to this plug on pins 1, 8, 13, 14 and 19, but they are not very good at showing pin numbering.

As I say the system works 100 percent if you did not want to lock the van overnight.

I have a headache.

If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

Amazing, it took two of us 3 minutes! Mind you my pal had access to the latest data. Directechs was wrong and we used Autodata to tell us the colours. All I needed was my trusty old school Snap-On test light. Lock ALL. Deadlock ALL Unlock. Unlock rear. Forget the colours, test. Those wires if you must waste time with a DMM will all sit on ground and go to 12v+ for 0.8 seconds. By the way I count that as 4 wires. On the 606 use the locks diagram marked "universal motor driven" on page 10. You will need 2 extra relays one triggered by your boot trunk release aux to separately unlock the rears; window close wire aux, timed for 4 seconds to trigger the deadlock set up to activate on arming. Deadlock wire WAS yellow up to 06, now blue/brown as I previously posted or are you one of those who won't take advice.

I take as much advice as I can, trouble is I do plumbing, and before that photo copiers, so unless it has water, or paper in it then I am a bit slow.

I shall print and digest over a cup of tea (plumbers need this to take information in)

Thanks for you great wisdom, I am forever in your debt.

By the way next year they will be reducing cistern flushing to just 4 litres, big news in the plumbing world (2001 went from 11 litres to 9, 2004 9 to 6, and 6 is not enough). central locking will be the last of all our problems then!

Adam

If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

Forgot to say, rear doors unlock wire is violet/brown (c3), double pulse, can get that to work.If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

4 litres? Enough? What next, Teflon coated bogs? Did I just invent something? Theoretically there are - triggers for lock all, unlock front and unlock rear which you found. I thought the worst part was finding the indicator wires in the white quadlock plug, top left.

Yes the indicator plug was a bad one, although I did takenote that the air ducting unclips easily to reveal better access, anyway I digress, totally confused now. Am I looking in the wrong plug (C3), I have the Blue as Unlock, and that goes to 12v when the van is locked, if you neg pulse it it unlocks the front doors, so I take it that works. I have the Violet/Brown (C3) as rear doors, this works if you pulse it once on unlock and then again via Aux output boot release. lastly I have Grey/blue as lock, this does not work. C3 does not contain Blue/Brown or Grey Orange, so is it that my van is different, or is it another connector (not C3)??? Just for info the toilet manufacturers do "test" every toilet to make sure it "works", however they use plastic sausages and paper to test, but not at the same time, thus when we fit a 10 grand bathroom it is too much too ask for a toilet that flushes everything away without leaving the paper, and yes I have spoken to them about it and their comment was that "that's how we test, one thing at a time only", amazing ! If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

News update. After my brief lesson in "central locking confangalism" I have progressed past the not getting anywhere stage! Have located in C2 what I guess by the cable size will be the relay outputs to the locks. I have: Grey/Brown pulsing to +12v on Lock and Deadlock. Blue/Brown pulsing to +12v on Unlock PURPLE / Orange pulsing to +12v on Deadlock and unlock Lock and unlock I get (as per 5 wire two ground leg system), guess the gem box represents the CDL relay and loom goes to the motors, so cut and connect as per Universal Motor instruction. As for the Deadlock I am a bit unsure why it pulses on unlock, is this normal??? not sure if deadlock is a solenoid or motor. My worry is that if it sits at ground will I need to disconnect the loom from the GEM box when I put 12v down it via my relay, or am I going to far.If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

In a word yes. 5 wire. Hold your fire, I'm waiting on someone sending me a wiring diagram, you should get one motor wire pulsing on lock, the same plus another pulsing on deadlock a third on front unlock and a fourth plus the third on rear unlock. All the motor wires sit on ground so you have to isolate them via a 5 wire set up. The gem box holds the relays.

The confusion comes from my data sheet as this is working on the inputs to the relay box (connector below the indicator plug), in this respect it works fine other than no lock/deadlock input. I am tempted to keep my connections for the unlock and double unlock as they work fine, and double neg pulsing for the rear unlock is easier this way since I can do this with a few diodes. As for the lock I will add a relay to use my neg pulse from the alarm to +12v pulse the lock side, thus disconnecting the neg leg from the relay box as I imagine it needs. I know the alarm unit has the relays inside to do this all but I need that doublepulse for the rear doors and the wires are already done. I will hang fire for you in case my ideas are wrong. Back down halfords for another 15A fuse I suppose.If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

OK, I have added my "locking" relay, and this works fine, I think I will leave it at that since the "unlock" pulse will not overide the deadlock, so I will use the OEM keyfob when doing this, unless anyone has a better idea.

Next issue, am I correct in saying that dual zone microwave detectors will not pass through heated screens? I have set mine up just right except no detect zone at front of van. Due to the highly expensive bodykit for which I purchased the alarm to protect, I had allready cabled up a loom to the front of the van. I was going to mount a dual zone shock sensor (in a waterproof box) in the front bumper, but I think I can add another microwave sensor, as this area is shielded from the first by the bulkhead and screen. Anyone see a problem here?

If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does