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will i be ok? electrical system


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tmorales509 
Member - Posts: 14
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Joined: October 29, 2010
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: August 26, 2011 at 11:52 PM / IP Logged  
Ok so even with my old setup of like 400watts i had some dimming issues, even after big 3. I am upgrading to around 700watts and am gonna upgrade the stock battery to maybe something like a kinetic hc1800. Do you think this battery alone with the stock 90amp alternator will be enough to handle the system and all the cars electrical or should i keep the battery i have now and throw the kinetic in the trunk to just run the system alone?
re audio!
tmorales509 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: October 29, 2010
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: August 26, 2011 at 11:57 PM / IP Logged  
or should i use the battery i have now to run the system and use the kinetic under the hood to run the car?
re audio!
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 27, 2011 at 5:08 AM / IP Logged  
Was the 400 watt amp a Class D? Is the 700 watt amp going to be a class D?
If the answer to the first question is no, and the answer to the second question is yes, the dimming will probably be about the same.
chadpcb 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: July 16, 2011
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: August 27, 2011 at 11:56 AM / IP Logged  

Just a heads up to try to help.

Couple of things that people over look that causes dimming lights.

Lets start with the easy ones first.

Class A, A/b, B amps are main causes of light dimming.

Battery is second that causes dimming

Alternator is third (generally issue is maintaining a charge on battery)

Now here are things that people sometimes over look but I like to overkill on....

Primary wire Amp calls for 8ga run 6ga or 4ga instead. Why? It reduces the amperage draw.

Some folks says it wont but it does.

Distribution blocks dont use them. you are trusting that the prongs are always tight and completely straight.

Use a ANL type fuse block alittle more but well worth it.

Keep your distribution leads as short as possible.

Primary fuse this is a good one.

Amp calls for a 60 amp fuse. 9 out of 10 people put a 60 amp fuse on their primary and run with it then wonder why lights are dimming.

Solution is Bigger on primary actual in fuse block.

Here is my setup in my wifey car.

2 type r 12"

4 type r 6.5

2 type r 4"

2 alpine tweets

1 Ev4000D Mono amp Class D

1 ev4 1600d 4 channel amp class D

4 Ga is the primary fused with a 200 amp circuit breaker

ANL fuse block with a 50 amp on the 4 channel and 150 amp on the monoblock trust me its in 1ohm

The battery is a everstart max27s Walmart I like their warranty

Alternator is a factory 136amp

She has never ever had any dimming issues even when I am driving.

Hope this helps.. Some Folks will say it wont  but it will.

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 27, 2011 at 3:34 PM / IP Logged  
This is another one of those times.
chadpcb 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: July 16, 2011
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: August 27, 2011 at 4:41 PM / IP Logged  
I figured someone would chime in and say not. Here is proof.
Proof 1
2 lane highway versus 4 lane highway
Which one moves traffic easier and faster.
Proof 2 the best proof
The big 3 and you can't argue with that one
A larger primary wire allows the current to flow smoother instead of direct peaks.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 27, 2011 at 9:15 PM / IP Logged  

Something tells me that Ohm's Law just got demoted to Ohm's Theory.

tmorales509 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: October 29, 2010
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: August 28, 2011 at 11:35 PM / IP Logged  
no both are class A/B.
re audio!
tmorales509 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: October 29, 2010
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: August 28, 2011 at 11:39 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the solutions. The first one i guess is not fixable since my new amp will be a class A/B..As for the battery, i will be getting a better one before i even attempt my install. For power wire, yes in my old setup i did have 8 gauge, but for this one i will be using 4 gauge, the wire kit i bought came with a 60 amp fuse but i will just buy a bigger one. So we will see what happens. Thanks guys/
re audio!
oldspark 
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Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: August 29, 2011 at 1:01 AM / IP Logged  
Keep the existing battery for cranking.
The AGM should be for the amp - they do not like cranking. (Lower ESR refers.)
700W should mean ~70A at full power. A 90A might handle that at optimum rev range unless you also have headlights on or wipers on etc.
There are 2 approaches.
1 is that the cranker (and aux battery) don't recharge adequately with normal amp use and driving. Hence you need a bigger alternator (else external charging, but that is nit as good).
2nd is that you want max voltage most of the time - ie, the alternator's 13.8-14.4V, not a battery's <12.7V. That too means more alternator output at those RPM.    
It is best determined with an in-dash voltmeter etc.
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