will i be ok? electrical system

Well actually the fuse rating on the amp is total 60amps, so it probably wont put out more than that? Does anyone know a good site with reasonable prices for HO alternators for a 91 nissan maxima or that can make one. I found one at powermustards for $299 for a 220amp but it is a universal one and i dont think i need one that big. I think maybe a 150amp will do?re audio!

powermustards*re audio!

Replace the M with a B, lol i guess you cant put that word here. :)re audio!

60A should be max long-term, but peaks can exceed that. A 60A fuse will generally pass 70A for an hour, 100A for 10 seconds, etc. You can't go "too big" for alternators; it's more a case of price and fit. (Or IMO "best bang for the buck$", without going too high for price.) I'd suggest an alternator with a "Sense" wire that goes direct to the battery (as opposed to single-wire D+ types (charge light only).) And you might find bigger at car wreckers. AFAIK, Nissan usually use rebadged Hitachi or Mitsubishi alternators, though they might use local manufacturers (eg, Bosch in Australia, but I avoid them!). PS - as too "smoother flow" in bigger wires.... And a bigger fuse for the amp to reduce dimming contradicts statements that a smaller fuse or distro will reduce current flow etc. Some people confuse resistance with peaks and dimming... (Eh IAAI? So now 2 idiots have picked up on that, but the other was clever enough not to go into detail...)

oldspark wrote: PS - as too "smoother flow" in bigger wires.... And a bigger fuse for the amp to reduce dimming contradicts statements that a smaller fuse or distro will reduce current flow etc. Some people confuse resistance with peaks and dimming... (Eh IAAI? So now 2 idiots have picked up on that, but the other was clever enough not to go into detail...)

oldspark - I wasnt suggesting a bigger fuse to stop dimming the lights.

I suggested that a bigger fuse be used on the primary then a right amp size fuse be used in a distribution block.

Yeah - my meaning wasn't expressed well. In fact taken literally & out of context, what I wrote is ridiculous. But it is a somewhat more complex topic. It is switching and loads that cause surges and dips. That is minimised by the Big 3 etc (though bigger cables etc can make some situations worse...) The alternator should be able to react to such dips (size or response time). The battery should help to prevent those dips going lower than the battery voltage (ie, from its surface charge of ~13.6V and under; but taking its capacitive and chemical (response) charge time into consideration). But lighting dips are often noticeable with dips above battery voltages - ie, it's often more related to the alternator and distribution drops (V-IR). And re batteries, lower ESR batteries (eg, bigger, or AGM, and fully charged) have their helpful impact... And then we get into distribution details, the resistance of fuses, etc etc.....

I can't go any further that was very well said.

Thanks! (It must have been concise. That's rare for me!) You did cover what I wrote though I thought in an ambiguous way. But thanks for the prompt. It's easier replying when using other replies.

ok np its all good.