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parrot bt with oem deck and amp


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01trublugt 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 08, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: August 30, 2011 at 11:50 AM / IP Logged  

So I am pretty much looking at about 8 or so wires to hook it all up.

Don't plan on tapping the wires, I bought a normal harness and a reverse harness when I installed the LOC's so that I did not have to tap or cut wires pretty much making the install of the 2 LOC's plug and play. I would just have to take that out the car, reconfigure the front wires to include the parrot wires and put it back together.

Hopefully the mute input to the radio works.

After looking at all of the schematics I can find on the parrot units it seems the parrot box has 3 mute wires coming out of it, am I correct in assuming that they all do the same thing(one might be + trigger, one - trigger, ect.) and I just need to use the one that will make my stereo mute.

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 23, 2012 at 4:39 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry for this late reply, the yellow wire is the Parrot's mute output, the others are different positions for the mute on OEM ISO European radios, e.g. Benz or VW-Audi, they all have the mute at different positions on the ISO power plug.
There are two ways to do this.
Just plug the Parrot mute wire into your head unit and connect to front speaker wires, the backs will automatically mute.
Ignore the speakers, simply mute the head unit and use an old Nokia or Motorola speaker in the dash.
Wiring between the h/unit and the LOC will cause lots of grief, the gain might blow your speakers + lots of noise.
01trublugt 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 08, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: June 25, 2012 at 10:29 AM / IP Logged  

howie ll wrote:
Just plug the Parrot mute wire into your head unit and connect to front speaker wires, the backs will automatically mute.

So with this method I would just run the speaker wires off of the parrot unit directly to the back of the speakers?

Considering under normal operation the speakers would be recieving power from an amplifier would I need to use diods in the parrots speaker wires to prevent the amplified signal from running back to the parrot unit?

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 25, 2012 at 11:03 AM / IP Logged  
No, use the reverse harness to break the front speaker wires.
The mute wire will silence all 4 pairs of speaker wires.
See diagram:- parrot.bmp
01trublugt 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 08, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: June 25, 2012 at 11:25 AM / IP Logged  

Following that diagram I would be sending the signal from the amplifier to the parrot, then from the parrot out to the speakers correct?

Will the parrot unit be able to handle the current coming in from the amp??

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 25, 2012 at 11:37 AM / IP Logged  
Yes, think it through, the amplified output goes straight through the Parrot black junction box, a straight line to the signal path. It only triggers the switching relays during a call, hell I spent hours wiring up 4 pole CO relays to do this with Nokias, Motos etc. in the good old days.
Here's a work around if you DO (unlikely) get any amp induced rear speaker noise:- parrot_2.bmp
You're simply cutting the trigger wire from the H/unit to the amp, hence "turning" off the amp during a call.
You can use a standard Bosch/Tycho automotive relay or a SPCO mini PCB relay from R/Shack etc. only about 200milliamps power.
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