feenin for an awesome system

01 bonneville se all factory nothing on steering wheel, saved $3600 for a complete system. Clarity, accuracy, detailed sound n power is key for me but not sure what's out there quality wise to buy. I'm very big on the sound of mids so as much as I cn get (6.5 fr drs, 6x9 in rear deck, nothing in rear drs so which would be best to add 6.5 in rear doors or 4-6x9's in deck?) I like tight highs-none of that screeching stuff, as for bass, not for competition but I want it to really deliver If I chose to be heard/fealt fr a block or so. Also I want to be able to hv plenty of tweaking ability to all components. My taste of music; house, rap, jazz, reggae, r&b, if this helps...thnx

Radio: JVC or alpine, research them and find a radio with at least a 5 band EQ built in. my JVC has a 7 band built in, its the avx-77 or something like that, awesome radio but be prepared for the price. if you want good sound then learn how to use an EQ the right way because most people get one and just turn the bass all the way up and the tweeter all the way up which is the worst thing you can do with an EQ when you want anything resembling sound quality. for speakers in the front you should get a really good set of component speakers, dont cheap out on the front if you really want good sound. i personally recommend diamond audio hex components mainly because they have a really good mid and a nice smooth sounding tweeter. the only problem with them is that they arent good with abuse. i think they recommend 120W rms to each side and i was running about 90W to mine when i had them. they sound awesome, but that is my opinion and you might have a whole different definition for what sounds good. i would install some sort of sound dampening material like dynamat to your whole car ( doors, floor, trunk floor and trunk lid. you can do the roof too if you want ). and it doesnt have to be "dynamat" it can be anything like it because dynamat is just way too expensive.

I agree with soundandsecurity about the comp set in the front dont go cheap I LOVE the TREO RSx6.5c comp set, the SRPG shows the are about $230 and thats their entry level comp set. Im running these and the TREO RSx6x9 in the rear on a 200w amp and i love it. TREO subs and amps are priced a lil high but you get more than what you pay for. All TREO products come with a 3yr warranty if installed by a authorized dealer(cant beat that, in my opinion). As for doing a four-pack in the rear deck, im not a big fan of cause i never sit in the back lol. I mainly want my sound in the front, were i sit. Any brand will do as long as you do your homework before you buy. BAD Boy Emergency Vehicle Lighting

It all begins at the source, so let's start there. What type of unit & features are you looking for? Standard, flip-out, Double-din? CD, mp3,tuner, video, USB, Bluetooth, Sirius? Do you plan to power any of the speakers from the head unit directly, or will everything be run by outboard amplifiers? Definitely look into applying some sound dampening materials to the car. If done correctly, a solid foundation is the basis of any good sound quality application. You can never have too much clean power (within reason), so don't skimp on the amplifiers. Cheap amps that cost next to nothing and claim enormous power ratings are just what they seem - too good to be true. The best method for selecting speakers is obviously to audition them directly, but if that is not practical, then do plenty of research from multiple sources before choosing to buy. Concentrate on finding a well reviewed set of components for the front speakers, and spend as much as necessary to get the best you can afford. Using a set of rear speakers is fine, but running high powered 6x9's (especially in arrays) will sound terrible. More speakers on the parcel shelf may be louder, but they will overpower the fronts and the pressure from the subs in the trunk will interfere with them unless you place them in separate enclosures. One of the most important and often overlooked aspects of any system is the design of the subwoofer enclosure. For the most part, mainstream manufacturer specs are not optimized for sound quality. They are typically meant to play as loud as they can in the smallest possible volume, which is what the majority of the market is happy with. To really get low, loud and accurate you will need to sacrifice more space in your trunk. It isn't necessary to buy the most ridiculously expensive subs available to get good results, but it is imperative to build the box as solidly as possible. Use high-grade plywood or MDF for constuction. 3/4" thickness is typical, but 1" is better. Don't use particle board or cheap plywood if you can help it.     If you don't understand port tuning, don't guess. Have it designed by somebody who knows what they are doing, or get some software that can do it for you and learn how to use it. As always, power is integral to overall performance, so get the right amp for the job. Beyond that, don't forget about the fundamentals - proper gauge power wire with clean connections, balanced RCA's & plenty of equalization.

Hertz Hi energy comp in front. Hertz coax in the rear. Alpine deck at least the alpine 123. and a good hertz amp to run the comp PLUS a hertz 12" sub. Gary Sather

tonanzith wrote: Hertz Hi energy comp in front. Hertz coax in the rear. Alpine deck at least the alpine 123. and a good hertz amp to run the comp PLUS a hertz 12" sub. http:/...com/ http://....net

...anybody ELSE smell SPAM...? Seriously, "fanboi" much? There's a hundred different brands out there that will do just as good as Hertz will, and it'll end up costing FAR less. Alpine, Kenwood (hi-end stuff, please), Eclipse, Denon, McIntosh (nomnomnom!), hi-end Clarion, Zapco. There's several that I know of, and in my eight seconds at the keyboard. As good as, in some cases better than, Hertz. Yes, Hertz is good, but it's not all there is.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

SPAM? Because I choose to listen to GREAT quality?? And sell GREAT quality? Guy has 3600 to spend and I can do that whole system I mentioned for about 1500 leaving him a ton left to do whatever with so I am sure someone in HIS area can as well.. That would give him a sound so good there wouldn't be a need to upgrade his hardware for years if ever. He could improve on it with Dynamat and and EQS or bit ten or equivalent but wouldn't need to because the foundation would still sound great and far better than Mcintosh focal or certainly ANY alpine etc. Do not denote 12 years in the industry of someone giving their honest opinion. If all you are in the forums to do is bash others opinions simply because you can NOT provide any QUALITY input of your own then you do not belong here.Gary Sather

Ruh-Roh...2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator

DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)

Big3 in 1/0G

1/0G to GTO14001

jmelton86 wrote: Ruh-Roh...

lol, priceless... anyway, opinion are opinions but there are also people who come through here with the sole purpose of promoting a single brand because they are a regional rep or something. so all they do is preach their own agenda instead of giving real advice. like a kicker rep tryng to convince me that a kicker solo x is the best sounding sub on the market. like someone a while back tried to recommend a set of pioneer $30 tweeters to me when i was asking for serious tweeter recommendations for sound quality, turns out he was like a pioneer rep or distributor. anyway, it gets annoying. it just comes off as somewhat fishy when someone just shows up and starts promoting a single brand like its the equipment of the Gods.

NOPE. Just an honest opinion and If you had checked out my shops web site you would see that I deal in alpine kenwood and all that as well...Gary Sather