closed switch to open signal

Thanks!

I totally was second guessing and reviewing diagrams like crazy!

Totally appreciate the diagrams....do you feel diodes are necessary?  Luckily I have some still as I bought extra when I wired my door triggers (isolated open circuit).

When you say "At Rest", do you mean when e-brake is NOT engaged?  Meaning, no light on my dash?  If so this make sense because e-brake on would be like sending the light blue / white wire (or light blue, whichever), to ground.

Meaning, e-brake requires ground, which I will interrupt with this relay / switch combo you made up for me....

Right track??

Snooky

Actually, looking a little closer, it looks like it requires either of the 2 to satisfy.  Either e-brake engaged, OR the NSS closed (in neutral) to supply a ground?

If that is the case, could I do this?

Snooky

Yes I do mean not engaged when at rest. No follow my second diagram, when wired in parallel rather than series, both have to be on. In series as you drew it the handbrake is not going to do anything, it still has to pass through the gear switch, thus stick with my version.

Well I have been looking this over ever since, and I just don't understand.

I am very sorry for being so difficult, however, I can't see how that works.

My reasoning is that the 12v constant is looped through 87a - therefore, when GWR is not active (any time engine is off and RS not active), there will be a 12v signal going to my brain.  My understanding is that this will cancel my reservation mode.

Secondly, and more frustrating to you and me I am sure, is that I do not get how the parallel would work.  My understanding is that GWR active, so coil is energized, making contact between 30 and 87.  Brain is looking for ground signal on light blue wire.  If e-brake is engaged, this will send blue wire to ground.  Also, if gearshift is in neutral (NSS Closed), it will send blue wire to ground.  It seems to me that as long as 1 sees ground, and the opposite could be "open", due to not engaged on switch or e-brake, that it will be just a dud wire, and the ground connection will still pass through to the brain?

Boy, this stuff can be frustrating to someone of my experience level.  Yet, it is still fun!

Snooky

Just try it as a patch and see if it works, remember I've done all this on the fly, I've never seen a query like this before, congratulations by the way by my counting you're only the second person with an original post this year! 99.9% are re-treads, fools not checking the archives, any way, just try it. The parking brake is secondary, it won't stop you if you are downhill and in gear.

Cool!  Sounds like an achievement!

I will totally be trying it, without a doubt, just at work right now.  I will buck it up this evening likely. Just trying to educate myself as best I can.

I have still got a bunch of stuff to hook up yet, including a door by-pass, and a momentary switch for my clutch by-pass.

Coolest part of my install yet thou, is that I can elevate my idle to a preset value via my DroneMobile app, or remote of course (I have my SEIC high-idle mod using a potentiometer for variable RPMS rigged up to my auxilliary outputs on the starter).  Man are the guys jealous of that one!!!

One other thing - Though I have every intention of trying your suggestion - I still am leaning towards  using the hood switch at the end of the day.  Reason being is that Compustar 2way allows me to know that my hood is open via remote or my phone app - Using this lead to kill the RS would be kick - butt cool in my opinion because them I have ability to know if my truck is in gear.

That being said....can you think of any reason why my original wiring would not work or be not recommended?  Curiousity more than anything.  I like to understand:)

Thanks again!

Snooky

Easy answer why not. RS has to see an OPEN circuit i.e. nothing. Going to ground (0v)will disable RS. The light blue wire HAS to see ground (0v) to enable RS. If that light blue sees an open circuit, it won't affect it. BUT if it sees 12v+, it WILL disable the RS.* That is what you are trying to achieve to give you a safe RS on a manual. *Same principle as hand brake (A.K.A. parking, ebrake), that wire shows a pos on ignition if brake is released from the bulb. Engaging the parking brake pulls up the switch and completes the circuit by grounding at the switch, thus going to ground (0v) and switching on the warning light. Thus the hood pin and the light blue are completely different functions, don't join, apart from which your original plan uses an extra relay, and is a kludge circuit wise.

Well, still havn't had a change to wire up that circuit.  Have got tied up with other things this last week.  Hopefully next few days will yeild some time to play!

Snooky

Ok, so I wired up the second version of circuit .  No luck.

I checked the status of the GWR wire, and it remained open.  Also, I was unable to set my truck to ready mode.  So this is what I think.  Because the 12V is being supplied on 87a constant - RS sees e-brake as "not engaged".  Since this is the case, it is not attempting to go to ready mode (I know this because it isn't "clicking" inside like it usually does indicating that I am able to turn off my key w/out the engine shutting off immediately).  The GWR wire is only actually ground when the RS is active (after the click), so the circuit from 30 to 87 is not closing, allowing the e-brake / NSS to be involved.

So, with that being said, the only difference is that I did not use the diodes as indicated - I didn't have them handy at the time.  However, I do not think it matters considering that side of the circuit isn't able to engage.

Any ideas??

Snooky

I have attempted another circuit on the e-brake.  I have tried this as well, with no luck.  It keeps cycling through the stages of ready mode - cancelling GWR wire, resetting relays, click click click....argggg.

Here it is below.  Might be of no use, however, another angle to look at!

Snooky