2007 toyota tundra remote start

Hey guys, Im new to the forum, great place, I can't believe all the info!

Heres the story.  Saturday morning I did a remote start for a pal of mine.  Its a 2007 Toyota Tundra 4 door.  Everything was going well, found al lthe wires, hopefully the right ones.  The truck will crank, but will not start.  Below are some of the details I think might help find the issue.

Module is a DEI Clifford 4112x

DEI Universal Bypass Unit

I'll list some of the wiring that I think will matter, I did more of course but I think they should be unrelated.

12 volt constant was tested and verified

Keysense wire was BLACK/ green from remote start unit to white 2 pin plug near ignition, used grey wire.  Tested wire, goes positive when cranking.There were 2 ignition wireless listed.  I used 2 different wiring diagrams, they listed them switched.  IE one diagram listed one color as first ignition, and the other color as second ignition.  The other diagram showed them switched.  At first I couldnt program the unit, upon switching them, it was able to program.

Double checked that the bypass unit is getting 12v constant and good ground.

Spare key is in the bypass

I keep thinking security but even if I hold the plastic key right on the iginition, or put the key in the ignition at first position, the truck still wont remote start.  Just cranks.  I Made sure its in auto trans mode, changed the crank time to 1.6 seconds thinking maybe it wasn't cranking long enough, no change.

Sometimes the truck won't crank for the full 1.6 seconds, it will stop almost immediately as if something else is triggering that somethign is wrong.

Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated!

I misspoke above and cant edit the post.  The unit is actually a Python 580 2 way.  I had done another later i nthe day that used the clifford.

2007 Tundra

+12V Constant                    Thick Black wire @ front of fuse box

Starter                                Dark Green      22 GaugeIgnition1                              Light Green     22 GaugeIgnition2                              Black              22 GaugeAccessory                          Gray                22 Gauge

Tach                                  Pin 9 of OBD2 connector

Instead of hiding a key, I use the DEI XK05 flashed with 5.PKTI firmware.  Data style bypasses are more reliable and provide

better vehicle security.

  

Soldering is fun!

Not sure what you have the keysense connection going to but the keysense on that truck is lt.green and should not show 12 volts when cranking.

If the security is an issue the factory security light will flash during the remote start process. It should go off......

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Thanks for the replies.  The keysense wire I had used was in a white 2 pin plug right at the ignition.  It was a grey wire, goes positive only at crank.  One of the wiring diagrams I used indicated that was the keysense wire, and testing seemed ot verify.  I'll find the green and try that.  However, on that note, wouldn't having the factory key in the ignition at the first position bypass the security system?

Thanks again all

I would think having the key even close to the ignition would allow the vehicle to see the key and remote start.  However, Mike M2 is right, Gray is not your keysense wire...you shouldn't even really need a keysense wire hooked up.  Are you sure the vehicle even has an immboilizer, only the V8 models have the immobilizer normally.  What did you run for a tach wire?

Ok thanks for all the help so far.  We just cant get this one quite right.  Heres the scoop...

Remote start is working..  However, when remote starting, the heat controls, heated seats, etc, do not have power.  However, radio and other accessories do.  I used the 22 gauge wires listed above.  In addition, the airbag light stays on.

Once you put the key in and the car takes over, heat, seats, etc all work fine.

When using the key to start (without using remote starter) everything is fine, no airbag, all accessories work...

Im at a loss, there is only one accessory wire, I checked several diagrams.  I also tested 2 other wires in the same harness as the above, none test like a accessory wire.

Is it possible that the ignition wires are switched?  Meaning ignition 1 is going to ignition 2 and vice versa?

Again, all the help is appreciated!  I've done many cars as of late and this is the only one giving me this much trouble.

Thanks!!!

The answer is simple, test the suspect wire, both will go "hot" i.e. show 12v+ from ignition on, but only 1 will stay live during cranking and that's ign 1. Make sure you haven't confused an ACC with the ignition.

I think the second ignition is not powered up as this is what controls what you don't have. Make sure the lt. green and the black have power during remote start....

Also, did you power up all the reds??? Red, RED / black, RED / white all need power...

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services