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95 subaru legacy, viper 5101


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howie ll 
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Posted: November 02, 2011 at 12:34 PM / IP Logged  
Exactly, both! A test in time saves nine! Proper preparation prevents p**s-poor performance. Old sayings but so true.
Comments aside the reason for my last post was some manufacturers will use low current ground switching via a relay for horns etc. Others will use high power + through the switch. You have to test.
michael213 
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Posted: November 02, 2011 at 12:41 PM / IP Logged  
Do u have a testing method I should use? Will I be able to tap into the relays in the car for horn and lights? And if so do u know which wires they r? 95 suby legacy L. Would I be able to use the relays from the other doors for the driver door? This car hase 3 actuators that respond to the driver door lock but driver door lock has no actuator. I hope that's understandable. Sry for the questions but I like to be prepaired so nothing goes wrong.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 02, 2011 at 12:57 PM / IP Logged  
Use a DMM for your testing, you test the lights and horn at the switch and steering column loom respectively. It's actually easier on this car to use an actuator, less wiring. About $15 for the 451, $12 for the actuator. The guide to this vehicle will tell you the position and colours of the wires, if marked - assume low current, no relay.
Your white light output should be pos or neg, your instructions will explain.
I'll post the instructions to this site in a few minutes.
michael213 
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Posted: November 02, 2011 at 1:01 PM / IP Logged  
So I should use 2 451's one for locks and one for lights and if I want the hor another for the horn?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: November 02, 2011 at 1:05 PM / IP Logged  
1 x 451 for the locks, none for horn and lights, both low current.
Look in the Downloads/Manuals section, enter 95 Subaru Legacy in the search box.
michael213 
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Posted: November 02, 2011 at 10:34 PM / IP Logged  
cool i think I got it. One more thing, with the 451 how will i know how my actuator will opperate, ie will i use both + or both -. I am unsure what will make it fire, do u have any ideas how to check it or test that? And a diagram for the 451 would be nice, for just one actuator.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 03, 2011 at 1:33 AM / IP Logged  
It plugs straight into the socket where your two lock wires would have gone and has its own wiring instructions. You will need about 5ft. of t5win core to wire into the door
michael213 
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Location: United States
Posted: November 05, 2011 at 4:06 PM / IP Logged  

all went well except car wont start, wont even attemp. Got the unit into auto mode. All the unit does is click

i have H3/1 to red ignition; H3/3 to Red yellow ignition; H3/4 to Blue Red ignition; H3/5 to Red ignition; H3/8 to Blue red ignition; and H1/2 Black yellow ignition

neutral, brake, and hood pin r connected.

What did I miss?

michael213 
Member - Posts: 34
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Joined: May 20, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: November 05, 2011 at 8:01 PM / IP Logged  
got it fixed, had inputs and outputs mixed up, Rookie  mistake  thanks for the help
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