1991 nissan d21 viper 5101

Assuming your vehicle has one...either or gearbox or engine management ECU, use this set up with 2 x 1n4004 diodes, it's belt and braces:- C63_nss.bmp

ran out of daylight, but everything but the nss/brake is hooked up.. so far so.. alright. locks work great. up and down smooth. siren works great with the locking/unlocking. lights do not flash.. doors lock with the door open.. and no alarm is sounding when i open the hood while the vehicle is armed..so it seems like the trigger is not hooked up properly. but i probed wires, and found the brown wire puts 12v when the trigger is pushed in. grounded when trigger is out. so it feels like i have hooked that part right... and the flash polarity is set to positive. hmmm found the tach, .6AC at idle, changes with rpm. also, neutral switch is coming from ecu also. I'll look into the diode hookup tomorrow. any ideas with the non-remote start issues at hand?

did a little looking.. with the parking light flash, am I in need of that relay? install guide states that with circuits that draw 10 amps or more, the polarity needs to be switched and a relay is needed. now if i did my math right.. that would 8.4 amps for all the parking lights. is this correct? that would mean i would not need the relay, maybe that is my issue.. just thinking outloud.

If you directly ground via your DMM or a test light and the lights work, change the polarity of the white output and correct directly, if not report back and I'll tell you how to do it. Hood switch MUST NOT see ground. NSS wire MUST see ground.

Ill try that first thing in the morning! I finished hooking all the wiring up. Changed the Tach option, the starter option, and the transmission to auto. grounded the nss out and tried to start remotely. the truck horn blares. What causes this?! Also, the Tach will not learn... I am getting .6-7ac at idle, so im not worried about that.. pulled straight from ecu. Why wont it learn the dang thing?!

tried the remote start again today. switched tach to virtual. transmission mode auto. ran the virtual tach. good. pushed clutch in, pushed button, started right up. now to make it safe with the clutch(bypass im guessing? hopefully not)... I never leave it in gear, so I am not to worried about that aspect.. just want to make it safe.. any suggestions? I know howie said to change it to auto and run from the nss.. just wasnt sure on the numbers for that. The neutral safety coming from the viper unit is putting out 12v with the key out of the ignition. also shows 12 in starting and at idle. I thought this wire is to put out (-) ? I measured my nss coming from the ecu, and it is reading ~4v at rest. thoughts?

That wire has to see a ground, either through the NSS or the parking brake. If you go to a library or on-line see the engine management pin-outs, that will tell you if it's there connect to that and leave in auto mode. Or connect to parking brake indicator wire and leave in manual mode. You will need to by-pass the clutch switch.

so after much research, have come to the conclusion that the neutral switch and the NSS are two different switches.. the neutral switch is my clutch switch, which i thought was the nss coming from the ecu.. anywho, I will attach my nss BLACK/ white output to the ebrake accordingly(ground out when brake is on) and attach the [H2/10- (-) 200mA status output] to my clutch switch(seeing ground when pressed in) with a diode inline, to "bypass" my clutch. My only problem still, is that the unit WILL NOT learn the tach. I turn the truck on, within 5 seconds press and hold the valet button.. wait for 3 seconds... NOTHING, no lights, no blinks, no chirps, nothing.. I switched over to auto and virtual tach and it learned the tach just fine... whats up with it not learning (in manual mode) the tach?!!