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remote start, 2004 grand prix


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 24, 2011 at 7:21 AM / IP Logged  

That Green wire on the 556UW is an Input only.  It is used to sense ( watch ) for the

actual Keysense signal generated when a key is inserted into the ignition and turn off
the 556UW antenna output.  Some vehicles don't like to "see" two transponder keys at the
same time.  Unfortunately, it is not an Output that could be used to fool the vehicle into
thinking a key was inserted as DEI claims is needed. 

Here is the note from DEI :

Keysense       lt. green (required)  (-)          ignition harness or BCM, conn. C1, pin 40
 
Bulldog, Omega and Audiovox don't say Keysense is required so you might try the install without
this Keysense connection.  Watch for service or security lights during remote start or after key
takeover.

Soldering is fun!
amsanders843 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2011
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: November 26, 2011 at 1:21 AM / IP Logged  
Okay I've done what you told me. Quick question..I just tested all wires linked to the remote start module (thick gauges). When I turn the key to the ign on position, the voltage coming to it across the red main power wire drops from 11.8V to about 10.8V; could this be an issue, being its not 12V? That same 10.8V is also coming out of the pink ign wire from the module to the car ign wire
amsanders843 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2011
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: November 26, 2011 at 1:56 AM / IP Logged  
And also, when I crank the car with the key, the purple starter wire reads around 10.6V n drops to 0, but when I try to use the remote start no voltage comes across is
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 26, 2011 at 6:29 AM / IP Logged  

Could be a bad BMWX 433 brain.  Not sure, never used one and can't find the install manual anywhere.  Is there any sort of programming/jumper/switch for Tach Mode operation?  Any Tach Learn process prior to actual remote starter use?

What voltage reading do you get right at the battery?  Just measured two vehicles ( both less than two years old ) and got 12.15V and 12.44V at the battery.

Assuming the car works fine / normally with the key.  Also assuming the Keyless entry portion of the BMWX433 works (lock, unlock, arm, disarm, trunk release, parking lights & siren). 

Think I would try a few things. 

Verify that the Black Ground wire from the BMWX 433 is securely connected to a good chassis ground point.

Check the BMWX433 satellite relays ( ACC, IGN, Start ) for any loose / poor connections.

Connect both the Red 15 Amp and Red 30 Amp fused wires from the BMWX433 to the RED +12V constant wire at back of the fusebox under the passenger dash.

Remove the Starter Kill / Anti-Grind relay from the circuit.  Re-connect the G.P.'s cut Yellow starter wire and then connect the BMWX433's thick Purple wire to this Yellow wire.

Soldering is fun!
amsanders843 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2011
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: November 28, 2011 at 12:24 PM / IP Logged  

it says to verify the tach signal, start vehicle with key. press and release valet switch 5 times within 10 sec. 6 chirps + 6 flashes indicates tach signal is picked up. Ive done this and i get the 6 flashes, i ran the tach directly off the coil by the engine. thinking about running it off the PCM, however, because the wire can be tucked away much easier. The battery gives me a read of around 11.8V, im going to let an auto shop charge it for me today. As i said before, the locks, alarm, flash lights, trunk pop all work fine. The ground wires are grounded to the same metal frame as the factory ground wires on the bolts that werent already occupied. I've tested the heavy gauge harness wires for the correct voltages with key positions, those are fine. I disconnected the starter relay and reconnected the starter wire, car starts fine with key. I need to figure out how to get to the back of the passenger fuse box. When i get my battery back, ill go about trying the remote start again. If i disconnect the bypass module completely, leave the key in the ign off position, should the remote start activate? The r/s has a loop wire dealing with auto or manual trans..i accidently cut it which is for manual, but i soldered it back together. i hope that's not causing the issue

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