add on remote start

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specs

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: October 02, 2009

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: March 23, 2012 at 12:27 PM / IP Logged

Hello, just getting back around to actually installing the above mentioned Avital 4003 into 2005 Audi A4...using a TBXKEY bypass module with valet key contained inside. Just have a couple questions I hope someone can help me with. Used the blue/white lock wire (lock module in driver's door) for activation input...going to have it set to 3 pulses for remote start. My questions have to do with disarming the factory security on remote start......I'm assuming the alarm is going to go off when I R/S if I don't disarm prior to? Avital install manual shows light GREEN/ black wire on 9 pin harness being factory alarm disarm (-)....would I route this back to PURPLE / green unlock wire at driver's door lock module? Wiring diagram I have shows that factory alarm disarms with single pulse to unlock. Also, Avital mentions using a relay to provide either a + or - pulse to factory unlock wire...is this still necessary if the R/S module is already putting out a - pulse, which is what I need? Thanks for any advice, Al

specs

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: October 02, 2009

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: March 27, 2012 at 10:49 AM / IP Logged

Hello, anyone able to provide any help on the above question? Also having an issue on getting the remote start to trigger off the lock wire in the drivers door. Don't know if I'm using the DMM properly to try and locate the proper wire needed for the r/s actvation input. Wiring diagrams seem to point toward the blue/white lock wire (-), at module inside drivers door, being the proper choice...when I hook up the meter (pos. red lead to 12 volt, probe wire with black neg) wire shows .77 V at rest and jumps to .78V when I hit the unlock button.Is this the wrong wire to use, or am I not using the DMM properly to check for negative trigger? Any assistance much appreciated.....Al

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: March 27, 2012 at 11:20 AM / IP Logged

Well then .77-.78 with the meter set at 20VDC?

Then you can ignore that one can't you.

Could I suggest using a Snap-On test light (incandescent bulb) ground the croc clip (not to a bolt in the door) or to a brown wire and probe your suspected cable with the lock catch thrown over.

You should be able to pick up lock control wire at the pump in rear or even 5 wire inside at the pump motor.

specs

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: October 02, 2009

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: March 27, 2012 at 12:25 PM / IP Logged

Thks for the speedy reply Howie....as far as the proper way to use the DMM, should I be seeing a spike to 12V (with the meter hooked up as mentioned previously) when I probe the correct wire...indicating the - pulse I need to activate the remote start? Also, what advantage does using the test light give me over using the multimeter? Thks again for the help....Al

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: March 27, 2012 at 1:40 PM / IP Logged

Personally I find a DMM useless in these situations.

Test light is old school, the incandescent NOT LED bulb draws enough current to trigger the lock relay.

You have to be careful in using it. Only on known 12 volt circuits.

I was obviously being a bit sarcastic, that change isn't one in the real world.

Expect to see a change of 12volts, even 3-7V on a multiplex wire.

specs

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: October 02, 2009

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: March 27, 2012 at 1:48 PM / IP Logged

Thanks again Howie.....will have a go tonight and let you know how it goes, much appreciated! Al

specs

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: October 02, 2009

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: March 28, 2012 at 10:30 AM / IP Logged

Hello all.....had no success on this whatsoever last night! The wiring diagrams I have indicate blue/white wire at drivers door module, but this only pulses neg. when unlocking with the key.....not with remote unlock. Checked all the other wires in the 3 harnesses in the door and couldn't find a single one to do the job. Anybody have any further suggestions, or am I doing something wrong here (looking in the wrong place)? Any advice appreciated! Al

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: March 28, 2012 at 11:01 AM / IP Logged

I tend to run a mile from post 2002 German cars but what happens if you actually ground this wire as I've already suggested, does it do the job?

Just had another thought, try measuring the resistance down this wire, it might be multiplex.

specs

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: October 02, 2009

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: March 28, 2012 at 11:36 AM / IP Logged

Howie, starting to understand your "affinity" for late model German cars! lol...but would like to try and see this through.Not sure I understand which wire you're indicating, are you asking me to try grounding the blue/white at drivers' door module? Also, I don't even to presume to understand the multiplex thing....how does this apply to my search for a negative trigger, maybe not do-able? Thks, Al

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: March 28, 2012 at 11:39 AM / IP Logged

As I already said, with only the driver door open, the latch thrown over, i.e. the door thinks it's closed, ground that wire it should lock the doors, possibly if you keep it grounded, close the windows as well.

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