2011 hyundai, viper 5101 wiring

Well I can see why you would like to avoid this by using the yellow/black. It would be a bit easier. Question is, if Directed supplies this info specifically for kia/hyundai losks, are there adverse effects if you use thedioded  yellow/black instead?

I can't answer that as I've never done them the other way but I have about 40 sorentos out there done like this and I havnt had 1 comeback yet with an issue. Also I do the souls, optimas, sportage all the same wayIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

i just follow diagrams to a "T" If i can use diodes i rather do that, than put a relay in place for the same purpose.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

I agree makes for a cleaner install. I didn't have a diagram when I started doing these except for the factory one so I went from thatIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

if it doesnt cause you problems i think i will try that next time. so unlock diode isolate to disarm and keysense wire? can you pm a diagram so i know what you mean? thanksTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

So I finaly got a chance today to pull the fuse box on the Sante Fe and the only yellow/black wire I found was not in the middle plug, nor did it ground when the key was turned twice. It was in the top/right plug(when looking at the front of the fuse box) and also had a red wire in the same spot.  Could the wire be a different color on the hyundai?

unfortunately I haven't done a sante fe so I can't answer that I've done all kiasIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Its weird. The sorento pictorial yields the same exact everything in comparison to the sante fe. but like i said, the only yellow black was in a different plug, and the only time it seemed to be grounded is when the plugs on the front of the fuse box were disconnected. So, i dioded the lock wires and left it be. the relative who owns the vehicle doesnt care about the factory alarm as its almost useless so he'll put the factory fob away and use only the viper fob for lock/unlock. this will leave the alarm out of the situation and maintain control of the locks. If i had the time i would have tested all wires in the 'middle' plug to see if the wire color was different but maybe on the same pin, but that didnt happen.

After the initial install, I would have left the car be, but he was having problems with the viper not always unlocking, but it would always lock. Seemed to happen when it sat for a while or when cold,as he stated, although the issue was never duplicated for me. Im hoping the issue had to due with the scotch locks used to tie into the lock wires, so when i dioded them i was sure to solder them this time around. my fingers are crossed. atleast everything else works thus far. Sucks that my 03 Sierra and 06 Civic 5101 installs went fine(aside from the bypass programming issue on the civic) and this one has issues.

So i just compared wiring charts on the hyundai and kia, something i should have done long ago. They both call for the yellow/black drivers unlock wire, but, the plug and pin locations are different. So I guess i had found the correct wire, and didnt use it. I also still have the disarm wire connected. Could this have something to do with the unlock not always working, and should i disconnect it after connecting to the yellow/black?  Thanks guys

Heres a super easy way to do it, no relays or diodes. 

Lock to brn/ogn

disarm to gray (set to double pulse)

unlock to pink (set to double pulse)

All wires are in the brown connector in the driver kick.