got a 50.7x for my '05 mr2 for xmas

Well, I ended up having the work done at a shop in San Jose since I was in town for a convention. I paid $100 for the alarm and $75 for each accessory (backup battery, siren, motion, tilt), for a total of $350. Seems like they were working on it for 4-5 hours, so I think the price was fair. Since they're kinda far away (2.5 hours), I'm debating on whether or not I should try to fix some issues myself. 1. Engine cannot be started if FRONT hood is open, even with the key. First of all, the engine is in the BACK, not in the front (which is my trunk), so the hood pin connections need to be swapped. Secondly, I want to be able to start the car with the key, even if the engine lid is open. 2. I want the remote to unlock the driver door first, then the passenger door. Currently, a single click unlocks both doors. 3. I think a neutral safety switch is a necessity - any comments on a setup like this? It seems that Toyota C-series trannies don't have neutral sensor wires, so we have to build our own. At the time, the shop and I agreed to just bypass the neutral safety switch completely. 4. Install the 530T window module - the shop forgot to put it on the original invoice, so they called me later and asked for $100 extra to install it. It's understandable, but being $350 deep already, I figured I'd do the window module myself. 5. Relocate the motion sensor, which was stuffed under the dash / stereo and fell out under my feet while I was driving home.

You've been done! 1) a)Swap the grey and blue trigger wires over on the R/S. b) You should still be able to start on the key with hood open, engine or luggage bays.) 2) Lock wire stays as is, unlock 5 wire relays the driver's unlock motor wire and second lock output gets connected to the wire the original unlock wire was connected to. Having said that why? No need in a car that size. 3) You need to check the engine management pin-outs, see if there's a neutral safety wire and connect the R/S BLACK/ white wire to that. If not what you have now is highly dangerous and shouldn't have been done. 4) Connect the 530t to the window motor wires in each kick panel as they go into the doors, the driver side can't be done at the switch. 5) Sheer laziness, the prox should have gone into the centre console, in fact you have to pull the front seats to get at the console but it would have made the rest of the install far easier.

Got around to relocating the 508d tonight. Do you think my placement is ok? Under the ebrake handle Also, here's how I unscrew the center console without taking out the seats. I have celica seats though, not stock mr2 seats.

I really need the ability to edit my posts...... Anyway, I'm more concerned about protecting the area behind the seats than anything else. I noticed a green and red light on the module - green lights up if I move gently, red if I move quickly. They don't appear to correspond to distance. They're also kind of hard to trigger from the back of the car (which I want to protect). I can't go setting off the alarm since it's so late/early, so I guess tomorrow I can test it out.

Placement is fine, if you're worried about the rear, see if you can mount it to the rear of the console or even under where the rear seats would be. Carefully read the adjustments section in the 508d manual. That trick's OK, but you can't get between the seat and the bolster like that with the OEM chairs.

Started getting false warnings from the sensor. Turns out I was supposed to have this rotated 90 degrees? It's not as convenient to mount that way, but it does seem to be working better. However, I don't feel like the sensor is working well in the back of the car, where my subwoofer / storage is located (even though it's probably better than before). I don't want to increase the strength because it'll pick up past the sides of the car. Instead, I'm thinking about relocating the sensor again. Thoughts?

Try to understand that this is suck and see, you have to play with it to get it right.

Is it possible to install the 530T but keep stock window switch functionality? I prefer the physical click for auto-down, and I don't really need auto-up from the switch, especially since I have a tendency to quickly tap my window switches to make miniscule adjustments.

Or maybe the window switch will keep its stock functionality and I'm worrying for no reason. In case it's helpful: http://www.testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2%20spyder/Repair%20Information/Wiring%20Diagrams/09%20-%20System%20Circuits/18%20-%20POWER%20WINDOW.pdf I had some trouble finding where the wires fed into the car - they disappear after entering through the door jamb. Looks like I can tap the driver side at the body computer, and the passenger side at the window switch (which runs under the stereo). This gives me easy access to all wires while requiring minimal length. I don't really understand how to test the switch type (A/B/C) but I need to read it more thoroughly.

Type A at each door loom if you wire to those points you will keep your functionality and the passenger switch will now also have one-shot up-down. Again if you are asking these questions???