2009-2011 Toyota Yaris Remote Starter Pictorial

i found the wire and the module is working just fine. the fuel pump wire is more for the remote start thing. thankss

Seeing how the IG 1 & 2 on the ignition switch harness are small gauge wires would you recommend installing your remote start 12V constants on the large black main feed in the under dash fuse box or on the ignition switch connector wires?

That is the way I usually do it.  Run the R/S's +12V constant input power feeds to the thick Black +12V constant wire at the fuse box.  While the ignition switch plug has a 25 Amp and a 15 Amp +12V constant wire, trying to correctly "load balance" the R/S's +12V input wires could be difficult and result in vehicle blown fuses.  Much safer to go to the thick Black wire.Soldering is fun!

Thank you for the fast reply, have a great weekend.

hate to bring up more questions to this older thread, but im working on one of these soon. the 07 yaris that i will be doing the install has no power locks, and im adding those on, anyone have pictures of anybody who has done these before, they have cable locks which is why i ask, or any suggestions would be great. also, i dont think this will need any bypass since the keys are metal, but do we still need to hookup the keysense for anything? the help would be great! thanks! jesus

I have never seen a remote start installation requiring the information you are asking for. Why would you need oil control info for a simple install? is this some special equipment?

Windog, some cheap and nasty products require oil pressure sensor to detect tach, very unreliable and if a prouct mentions it, avoid like the plague!

Thank you! 1. I want to connect to the horn, but I found I don't have pin 18 black wire. what should I do when I don't have that wire to split out? 2. My alarm has one wire needs to connect to the door sensor. However, I think yaris 2009 has 4 different wires for each door, pin 21, 24,5,and 20 (30 pins plug). How can I connect them to one wire only in the alarm system? Or I was looking at the wrong wire? Thanks! Camille

Here are some other locations / possibilities for the Horn wire : Audiovox : Horn    LIGHT GREEN (-)      AT FUSE PANEL BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ALSO BLACK IN STEERING COLUMN HARNESS Omega : OEM Horn BLACK (-) HORN SWITCH Should be pretty easy to locate. Set Digital Multi Meter to 20V DC, connect Red lead to +12V constant and Black lead to suspect wire. When horn button is pressed, the DMM should read +12V. The steering column should be easy to access and find this wire. ( It won't be in the Headlight Connector pictured above and stay away from any Yellow connectors or Yellow harnesses - air bag.) You should combine all 4 door trigger wires to make one alarm trigger input using 1N4001 diodes. Here is a generic diagram from Bulldog Security : http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/24464_NEON_(-)%20NEGATIVE%20DOOR%20PIN%20ISOLATION%20CIRCUIT.pdfSoldering is fun!

Thank you! Today I set up everything other than the door trigger because I am facing some diode issues My alarm negative trigger line sends out +4.76v all the time. When I connect it to one door sensor, everything works correctly, and I see it becomes 0v, and the alarm door trigger is triggered. However, all four doors have their own sensor wires. Therefore, I bought four 1N4004 diodes to separate them. After I use them, the door trigger never been triggered. I removed all and use only one diode to one door only, instead of 0v, I see it become 0.7v, I guess that's the reason the door sensor cannot trigger door trigger anymore with a diode in between. How can I solve this problem? And can I just connect all four wires to one door trigger wire without diode? Thanks a lot!