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530t with resistor mod still wont work


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ckk650 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: January 04, 2012 at 4:25 PM / IP Logged  

Hi All,

I have an older car (1991 BMW E30 Cabrio) with very high load window motors. I wired in a 530T (stock), and tried all of the resistance settings. At the highest resistance setting, the front window rolls all the way up, but only goes about an inch at a time on the way down before the 530T relay clicks. The rear window won't move at all (instant relay click).

I did the resistor mod to increase the 530T resistance handling, and the result is unchanged. The windows work fine with the stock switches, but they are indeed very slow. Motors are probably very inefficient, tracks might need lube, etc.

Wiring to the 530 is done with 10ga straight to the battery and properly grounded. No difference with the car on or off. Stock wires from the switches to the window motors seem thick enough (at least 12 or 14ga).

Has anyone looked into further modifications to the 530T for very inefficient motors? More to the point, does anyone know exactly how the 530T senses the load? I'm comfortable soldering/rewiring the board (work at an electronics company with all of the appropriate tools and supplies). I'm wary about just replacing the new 150ohm resistor with something much larger without having any understanding of the circuit...

Thanks in advance!

--Ckk

metz35 
Copper - Posts: 458
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2003
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 04, 2012 at 4:57 PM / IP Logged  
There are different modifications to the 530t depending on the build date on the module. Get that info and I can supply you with the modifications
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,670
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: January 04, 2012 at 5:08 PM / IP Logged  
Lubricate the tracks first.
talarchevy 
Copper - Posts: 49
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: January 04, 2012 at 5:27 PM / IP Logged  
Yes, definitely lube window tracks. I had same issues with my 530t in an 04 silverado, I ran 4 ga ( yes thats right 4ga, lol) direct w/fuse from battery and my ground on 8ga(short ground). That fixed the problem. also ran 8 ga from motors to 530t. 9 out of 10 times both windows work with no problems, once in a while w/excessive load (HIDs, system, aux lighting, etc) will my windows slowly roll up or stop half way. This was without doing any mods to the 530t.I am interested in hearing about other mods though.
Go BIG or go Home                                    it might not be broke, but lets fix it anyway
ckk650 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: January 04, 2012 at 6:34 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks all,

metz35: I have a new version, it's the one with the 150ohm resistors already in place. Based on the directions, I removed the r32 and r40 surface mount resistors (looking at the circuit board I can see that those were just used as bypasses of the 150ohm parts. Dunno if there is an additional mod -- perhaps replacing the 150ohm resistors with 200 ohm or something.

I suppose I will have to lube the tracks. Not sure how to do that, actually -- is there a specific grease to use?

My fear is that the rear window moves perfectly fine with the stock button, smooth but slow, but with the 530 it doesn't move at all. Even if I lube the window track, I don't think it's going to go from 0 movement to 100%... If I have time this weekend I can take out the rear panels and see if I even have access to the rear window motor.

Thanks,

--C

metz35 
Copper - Posts: 458
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2003
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 04, 2012 at 7:11 PM / IP Logged  
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1069
here uploaded the DEI tech tip 1900. all about the resistor modification
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,670
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: January 04, 2012 at 7:42 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 05, 2012 at 2:49 AM / IP Logged  
When doing window closure, ALWAYS check window movement first and ALWAYS lubricate. Use a non silicone product such as Wurth spray but good old WD will do in a pinch, mainly around the mirror sail area, run the window up and down a few times after, make sure it's now faster and smoother.
I don't agree with the window motors on that car having a high power draw, especially the rears, could you have age-worn out motors as being 20+ years old?
ckk650 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: January 05, 2012 at 2:08 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks guys,

As mentioned, I already did the resistor mod to the 530T and didn't see any difference in behavior.

Howie, I am assuming that the problem is old gunked up motors and non-lubed tracks (I have read that a good cleaning of the motor internals can help), but they definitely work fine with the stock motors and buttons even without a cleaning. It's only going to get worse when I put the top up and they have to slide into a relatively tight slot in the top.

I wonder if I can use the 530T output just to drive a relay rather than to drive the actual window. The key question there, even if it works, would be how to stop it since it would be unable to sense the load.

Perhaps there are other "timer-based" window modules that I can use if the 530 doesn't work?

Thanks,

--Carey

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 05, 2012 at 4:12 PM / IP Logged  
Yes, 4 x 528t times set for 2 seconds longer than normal up travel time triggered by the orange GWA wire and 4 x 5 pin relays for the venting,
triggered by any aux. You will need to split both via 4 1N4004 diodes on each leg.
528t:
Orange to BLACK/ white on 528t
Cut up wire, switch side to orange ditto.
Motor side to yellow ditto.
528T Brown and red to constant live via a 15 amp fuse on each motor 528t and relay sharing.
Black to ground.
Relay:
Aux to 85.
Cut down wire, switch side to 87a.
86 and 87 to fused constant as above.
30 to motor side.
The whole thing being an expensive kludge.
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