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2012 Kia Sorento Alarm/Remote Start Pictorial


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mandofever 
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Joined: December 09, 2010
Posted: December 31, 2013 at 9:49 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the quick reply and for the clarification, your input is invaluable. I've been researching for days and no diagram seems to mention that the (-) indicates negative trigger, i assumed it meant that the wire would test negative at rest with the DMM and require a positive trigger.
For the arm - disarm - lock - unlock - parking lights - horn - and dome light controls, my compustar RS/Alarm provides 250mA negative outputs. Are these durable and safe enough to connect directly to vehicle functions as triggers, or should i add relays to provide stronger ground triggers and protect the RS head unit?
Also, I plan to connect the driver door unlock to the 2nd unlock output on the RS unit for driver door priority unlock. would this still require the use of the diode to isolate? Would i need diode isolation on the other unlock wires?
Lastly, your picture above says the horn wire is negative, but all my diagrams show it with the (-) symbol which you clarified to mean negative pulse. Which is it?
mandofever 
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Joined: December 09, 2010
Posted: December 31, 2013 at 9:56 AM / IP Logged  
One more thing...
My RS unit has two 12v constant inputs and the car has two 12v constant outputs. Is it bad practice to splice all 4 of those together as i have seen on some so called "professional installation videos". Same goes for the two accessory wires. Can the accessory output from the head be spliced into both of those simultaneously?
Thanks so much for your help :)
chev104275 
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Posted: December 31, 2013 at 10:32 AM / IP Logged  
I have never done a compustar unit but 250ma should be good for locks,horn and negative parking lights because all your doing is controlling factory relays. I've never done dome light on that truck so you'll have to test that one.
As far as the ingition circuits go they are separate for a reason and should be left that way. So if the system doesn't have enough outputs then you'll have to add relays to make up the difference.
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
mandofever 
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Joined: December 09, 2010
Posted: December 31, 2013 at 10:49 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks so much for your prompt response.
I am unsure what to test for on the dome light circuit. Do i need to test amperage required to trigger to determine if a relay is needed?
chev104275 
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Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Posted: December 31, 2013 at 10:55 AM / IP Logged  
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION      BROWN (-)      @ LEFT FRONT A Pillar, (WHITE, 22-PIN PLUG), PIN 1
Check the amp draw see if it's under the 250ma
I would get the basic system working then start adding things like dome light
As far as the drivers door priority you should be able to use the yellow/black in the back of the first box to unlock just the drivers door and use the gray/black unlock wire for the rest of the doors.
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
mandofever 
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Posted: December 31, 2013 at 11:08 AM / IP Logged  
Awesome, Thanks so much!
mandofever 
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Joined: December 09, 2010
Posted: January 06, 2014 at 9:34 AM / IP Logged  
Everything went great on this install, including the drivers priority unlock! Thanks so much for your guidance. One last question though...
My wiring diagram only called for connecting the driver door pin which obviously leaves the other doors unprotected. When I go back and connect the other doors pins do i need to diode isolate them all separately? Diode bands facing away from remote start unit?
Thanks for your help
chev104275 
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Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Posted: January 06, 2014 at 9:43 AM / IP Logged  
What did you end up using for door trigger Door Trigger ?
GREEN/ orange      -      dash fuse box, white 26 pin plug (FK), pin 10. This should do all doors
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
mandofever 
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Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2010
Posted: January 06, 2014 at 10:21 AM / IP Logged  
I'm 99.999% sure that's the wire i grabbed. It's listed as drivers door pin on my diagram and it does function properly to trigger the alarm but only on the drivers door. The other doors can be opened without setting off the alarm.
mandofever 
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Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2010
Posted: January 17, 2014 at 12:45 AM / IP Logged  
So i got back in there and verified that i did grab GREEN/ orange - dash fuse box, white 26 pin plug (FK), pin 10. I tested and verified that it only goes to ground when the driver door opens, no change in voltage when opening any other door, alarm is not triggered. From there, I tested and then tapped into the 3 other door pins which is where i run into trouble again:
Each door pin wire individually reads between 4-5 volts when closed and goes to ground when it's respective door is opened, as expected. Connecting door trigger input to any individual door works as expected.
Connecting door trigger input to all but drivers door (FR, RL and RR tied together) works as expected. Adding driver door to the mix, with or without isolation (band away from RS) triggers the alarm almost immediately upon arming with all doors closed.
Tried isolating all four doors, alarm triggers with all doors closed
Tried no isolation, alarm triggers with all doors closed
Isolating driver door only, alarm triggers with all doors closed
Isolating all but driver door, alarm triggers with all doors closed
Thoughts? Am i missing something obvious?
Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.
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