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remote start in ’05 mercury mariner


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sparkyssb 
Copper - Posts: 205
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 11, 2012 at 9:30 PM / IP Logged  
Hello. Looking to install an add-on remote start to a 2005 Mercury Mariner (basically a Ford Escape) for a friend and had a few questions. I plan on using an Audiovox Prestiege AS-9075 unit and a Code Alarm PKU-F2 bypass unit. I cannot find any information about a neutral safety wire so it can't start the SUV if it is in gear. Any ideas on what I can do to implement that feature? Secondly, a reliable tach for this vehicle is at the fuel injector. Where is this located under the hood?
I came up with the following wiring diagram. Please let me know if anything seems wrong if your familiar with the unit. Thanks!
remote start in ’05 mercury mariner -- posted image.
ceasar326 
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Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: January 12, 2012 at 5:13 AM / IP Logged  
The neutral safety wire works as a valet. You add a toggle switch and ground the end. If a mechanic was to work on the vehicle he would flip the switch and the vehicle would not start with the remote. More like a safety issue. But if your adding a hood switch you can just ground the wire and I'll be fine too.
ziggyb222 
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Posted: January 12, 2012 at 5:17 AM / IP Logged  
Just did one of these last week. Pretty easy to get at everything. Not sure why you are using a relay for your bypass...but I am not familiar with your unit either. I did my locks like this...so no resistors are required...
 
Remote start       car
lock wire               factory arm wire- WHITE/ purple
unlock wire          lock/unlock wire  pink/white
disarm wire         factory disarm wire  blue/light green
 
All these connection in the drivers kick panel.. you can get your brake,parklights and thick black wire for 12volts there also...... Fuel injector wires on top of the engine.... look for three yellow plug type looking things sticking out of the engine with wires and plugs connected to the top of them......
advanced 
Copper - Posts: 207
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2003
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: January 12, 2012 at 7:04 AM / IP Logged  

Hi Sparky, I use Audiovox. You don't need the relay from the Audiovox unit to the bypass. Just connect blue from AS-9075 to brown of bypass. I just did one of these too. I connected tach to the left front coil (orange / YELLOW).

I did my locks same as Ziggy & it worked beautiful.

lock & arm = (-) WHITE/ purple in DKP, harness to door

unlock = (-) pink/white in DKP, harness to door

Factory alarm disarm = (-) dk. blue/Lt. green in DKP, harness to door 

Good Enough Isn't!
advanced 
Copper - Posts: 207
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2003
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: January 12, 2012 at 7:31 AM / IP Logged  

You don't need to use the small BLACK/ red of the 4-wire aux. harness. Just hook up the red "lock" wire to WHITE/ purple.

The green "unlock wire goes to pink/white.

The small BLACK/ blue of the 4-wire aux. harness goes to dk. blue/lt. green. 

Good Enough Isn't!
advanced 
Copper - Posts: 207
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2003
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: January 12, 2012 at 7:37 AM / IP Logged  
One other note: If you connect your 12V+ Constant to the ignition switch, change both 30A fuses in Audiovox AS-9075 unit to 10A.
Good Enough Isn't!
sparkyssb 
Copper - Posts: 205
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 12, 2012 at 8:44 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks guys. Concerning the neutral safety switch, I know about the toggle switch to disable the system but I would like the system to be disabled if the SUV is in gear. Or does the SUV already have a feature like this built in?
Thanks for the advice about the relay. The instruction manual states it is advisable to use the relay as the wire only provides 300mA. But if its fine to hook up directly, great.
Advanced, thanks for your help but you've got me a little confused. The instructions state the following concerning the 3 pin connector:
Connect the Red wire of the three pin connector to the driver’s door unlock motor leg.
Connect the RED / Black wire of the three pin connector to the unlock wire of the door lock control switch.
Connect the Green wire of the three pin connector to the driver’s door lock motor leg.
Your advised in your above post that the red wire is for locking, and the green is for unlocking. Does the manual have a typo? Also, do I need to use the RED / black wire at all?
Last but not least, according to the manual, I need 2 sources of 12V. Am I OK to use the the large black one in the DKP and the lt. GREEN/ purple one at the ignition harness?
offroadzj 
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Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 12, 2012 at 9:03 AM / IP Logged  
The vehicle should have a built in neutral safety. You can do a simple test to be sure. In an open space, keep your foot over the brake pedal, put the car in gear and try to start it lightly. If it even attempts to crank at all immediately stop. But my bet is that it won't.
Can't help you with the lock wires... don't work with audiovox at all.
The bypass has a built-in relay which is why you don't need the external relay. The output is actually driving a relay.. you just can't see it.
You are ok to connect both to the large black wire in the DKP... I would not recommend using the ignition switch 12v and reducing the fuses like mentioned above... you are just asking for trouble.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
sparkyssb 
Copper - Posts: 205
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 12, 2012 at 8:28 PM / IP Logged  
Also, in addition to my question concerning the 3 lock wires, why wouldn't I need to hook up the BLACK/ red arm wire in the 4 pin harness (produces - pulse after unit shutdown)? I'm thinking if the unit shut down, the car's factory alarm should be re-armed. Thanks.
advanced 
Copper - Posts: 207
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2003
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: January 13, 2012 at 4:02 PM / IP Logged  

Hi Sparky,

I'm sorry, you are right on both items. I forgot that you were using an add-on remote start. Your door lock wiring choices above are exactly right. Yes, you can hook up the BLACK/ red of the auxiliary harness to rearm the factory alarm.

Good Enough Isn't!
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