2000 4runner, python remote start

So I've been tinkering with it some more today. I tapped the BROWN / white for the lock which seems to work fine. Then I tapped the red for unlock which seems to work as well so I guess I'm good there unless there's a reason that I should be tapping the other wires for unlock like you guys were saying? With the current configuration I don't get the option of a priority unlock, it just does all the doors.

Dead simple, take your unlock to the pink that Ted mentioned and take your second unlock or an aux output, trunk release? to where you originally had the lock wire.

Thanks, I'll try that.   Although I must admit that after further testing I may not have the unlock all figured out after all. With the drivers door open it will lock and unlock just fine. However if I close the door and lock it then it will not unlock it afterwards. Also when it's like that the actual door switch won't unlock it either. I have to use the stock remote to unlock the doors before everything starts to function again. I'm assuming there's some sort of feature in the stock setup that disables the inside door locks when everything is armed which is causing this.

Did you "assume" and join or have you tested the supposed lock colours? You gave different colours from both Tedmund and myself.

Check for a factory disarm wire on the vehicle or try setting it for double pulse unlock. I had some newer toyota's that did exactly that and it turned out it needed a double pulse.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

you need to diode isolate those 2 unlock wires. one is the unlock signal, the other is the driver door cylinder sense wire. If you dont diode isolate it will not unlock (such as your current problem) the driver unlock no need to 5wire relay as its negative. just unlock to this wire, and set up second unlock with diodes to the unlock wire. btw test with a DMMTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Thanks guys! No I didn't assume, the red wire I tapped for unlock was listed on one of the wiring diagrams I printed off, actually it was the diagram from here.    Anyways it did work just not with the door closed so I'll go back and change that by tapping the two wires you guys listed with the diodes. I did manage to get the parking lights hooked up and the dome light as well which just leaves the unlock (will fix tomorrow), horn, and then figuring out how to hook up the rear defrost and control the back window. Thanks again for all the help though guys!!

Don't just go by diagrams either. That is what is meant by assuming. Always test the wires with a DMM before making any connections.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I hear ya on that one.   I thought I was good because with the driver door open it does work just fine, it's just when you close it that it doesn't function as it should.

So thought I would update this as I've gotten a bit more done. I ended up doing the unlock totally different what what anyone else mentioned. I tapped the RED / blue wire that's in the blue connector at the drivers door and grounded it. That wire is the door cylinder sense wire, so now it thinks the drivers cylinder is unlocked all the time. Then I tapped the blue/black wire in the white plug at the drivers door to the remote start unlock wire.   Now it works just like factory, if you press the unlock once it unlocks just the drivers door, press it again within a few seconds and then it will unlock the rest of the doors. No special relays or diodes required. I also got the key-override-all installed and the remote start works great now. Only thing left to do is figure out how to control the rear window like the factory remote did. Big thanks to all the guys who threw out the input as it all helped me figure it out!!!