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cx2300 a remote start alarm


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tedmond 
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Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 25, 2012 at 7:07 PM / IP Logged  
if there are 2 wires, you need to diode isolate the 2 wires.
driver door pin RED.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
blkrhyno 
Copper - Posts: 71
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Joined: August 16, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 25, 2012 at 7:31 PM / IP Logged  

If you don't find the RED / white door trigger wire @ top of fuse box in a 9 pin plug, then it's a RED / blue in the DKP towards the sill plate.

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blkrhyno 
Copper - Posts: 71
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Joined: August 16, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 25, 2012 at 7:38 PM / IP Logged  
Also your starter wire should be on the car side of the starter kill relay not the key side. The car will never remote start with it on the key side hence the reason for the relay it kills the ignition from being started with the key when the car is armed, so in order for the car to remote start when the car is armed it has to be on the car side.
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roofoo 
Member - Posts: 43
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Joined: January 12, 2012
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: January 25, 2012 at 8:37 PM / IP Logged  
Okay, I'm making some progress! I diode isolated the 2 different door trigger wires, so now all doors set off the alarm. The domelight supervision works too!
Now for the remote start. I tried disconnecting the tach wire to see if it would work without it. Same problem - starter cranks for a fraction of a second then stops. Do I need to connect the tach wire input to ground or 12V if not used, or just leave it unconnected to anything?
offroadzj 
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 25, 2012 at 8:42 PM / IP Logged  
If you disconnect it you need to also program the unit for voltage or no engine sensing and adjust your crank time accordingly. Have you tried remote starting with your key in the ignition (not turned, just in the barrel)?
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
roofoo 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: January 12, 2012
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: January 25, 2012 at 8:49 PM / IP Logged  
I just tried again with the key iin the barrel, still no go. I'm not sure how to program the unit for tachless mode, the manual just says to not connect the tach wire. So I guess it's supposed to automatically detect it's not using the tach input?
blkrhyno 
Copper - Posts: 71
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Joined: August 16, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 25, 2012 at 9:39 PM / IP Logged  
It won't start because your starter wire is on the wrong side of the starter kill relay,I would switch it around and then test with the key in the barrel. Then if that works, then tackletach issue.
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roofoo 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: January 12, 2012
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: January 25, 2012 at 9:43 PM / IP Logged  
Somebody else said that if it was on the wrong side of the relay, then it wouldn't crank at all. Which it is doing, just not long enough to start the engine.
blkrhyno 
Copper - Posts: 71
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 25, 2012 at 10:16 PM / IP Logged  

It'll will try to crank if the car is not armed because pin 30 and pin 87 are connected when the relay isn't active, did you fix your door trigger problem ?

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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 26, 2012 at 12:02 AM / IP Logged  
OK children, before Ted pulls his hair out and ends up cynical like me do the following:-
Does your dome light stay on when you shut the car doors but extinguishes within 4 seconds of locking the doors?
If so you will have two or three wires there.
One is a constant 12V+, the second sits on ground when the doors are open and will go to 12V+ when the dome light goes out.
Connect to that and job done.
Or do you have an icon telling you the doors and trunk are open on your instrument panel?
If so pull the gauge cluster and use them, both neg.
Job done and no need for dome supervision.
Something else I've noticed, use a good quality test light such as a Snap-On or a Mac with an incandescent bulb. Much more reliable for the measurements you're doing and you seem to be rather ham fistedly overdoing it with the DMM.
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