oleg4, something has got to be wrong with the "bones" of your installation. We installers have lots of debate about the reliability of voltage sensing, but even its worst critics would admit that it works at least in the short term.
Installers in favor of always connecting a tach wire just don't want to see the customer return in the future with intermittent problems, such as when the weather changes, or the car gets old or out of tune.
Repeat: Maybe you should or shouldn't leave the system in voltage sensing mode forever. But voltage sensing should
definitely work in the short term. That's why I say it's a good troubleshooting tool.
What you want to do is basically strip your install down to the basics. For the remote starter to work, you don't need hoodpin, brake, parking lights, locks, tach, or even transponder bypass.......make sense? Just get the thing to start first, and then worry about the rest.
So basically you should (temporarily) have it like this:
---Voltage sensing mode, with tach not hooked up.
---Whatever you used for a transponder bypass should be unpluggeed or disconnected, and just leave your existing good key in the ignition (but in the off position) for now.
---Unplug the 4-pin connector that does the locks, just for the hell of it. If you're really worried, you can even temporarily disconnect your parking lights and brake....you don't need those during testing.
Make sense? Strip it right down to the basics: All you really need is ground, antenna, and the ignition connections. That should be enough to just start the car. That's all you want to accomplish at this point---just get the car to start. Worry about all the details afterward.
If you do the two things above, you've (temporarily) ruled out tach and transponder as possible trouble spots. If the rest of the install is good, the remote starter should work. If the remote starter doesn't work, troubleshoot and fix whatever is wrong before worrying about transponder and/or tach.
You said it starts and stops running. If you have any more information, it would be good. How long does the car run for when it remote starts? Do the climate controls work during this brief time? Any strange warning lights on the dash?
Also, when the remote starter fails, if you leave it alone, does it try again, or stop forever? The reason I ask is this: If the remote starter senses a problem with voltage or tach signal, it'll make two more attempts. If it "sees" the brake lights coming on or the hood being raised, it'll shut off and stay off. Also, in the second programming table for the APS901C, it should have a "diagnostics" setting. Try to use that and figure out the reason for the thing shutting down.
How are your ignition connections wired? When you said that crank averaging didn't work, and you had to put the unit on pre-set time, that's a warning sign right there. The unit "watches" the yellow wire, and when you turn the ignition on (powering up the Prestige's blue wire) and then turn the key to the Start position, it monitors the yellow wire to see how long it stays energized for. So, it's likely/possible that either the blue and/or yellow wires are in the wrong place. I'd start right there at the ignition switch.
You should have the following connections:
Toyota WHITE/ red constant: red and RED / white of Prestige
Toyota WHITE/ blue constant: This wire is only 7.5 amps; I wouldn't use it for anything at all.
Toyota black ignition: blue wire of Prestige. IMPORTRANT: This blue wire not only powers up the car during remote start, but it also serves as an input to the Prestige for programming functions, as well as letting the unit "know" to "watch" the yellow for crank averaging. P.S. The Toyota black wire is what turns on the ignition in the car to let the engine start.
Toyota small BLACK / YELLOW second ignition: connect to green Prestige Ignition 2. Be SURE to NOT change the default in programming. Don't change it to "as accessory" or "off during crank;" leave it on "as ignition."
P.S. This wire in the Toyota powers up the climate controls, as well as a bunch of other stuff. If you didn't connect it at all, the remote starter would work, but it wouldn't run the heater and you'd have all kinds of crazy warning lights on.
Toyota pink accessory: On my installations, I don't hook this up at all, but you'd put it to the purple Prestige accessory output.
P.S. The Toyota pink supplies power to the radio, power mirrors, cigarette lighters, and some other non-essential items. I leave it disconnected so the radio stays quiet during remote start, but go ahead and feel free to hook it up if you want to.
Comments about the above wires:
---It's important to note that there are two BLACK / YELLOWs: One's an ignition, and ones a starter. Make sure you test these wires so you don't hook them up backwards from the remote starter.
---The two main ignition wires, the black and the small BLACK / YELLOW, it really doesn't matter much which goes to the blue and which goes to the green on the Prestige.....just be sure not to accidentally reprogram or change the Prestige Ignition 2 setting.
---Since you said the crank averaging wasn't working, I'd say there's a good possibility you mistakenly put the Prestige blue ignition wire, to the Toyota's pink accessory wire. This would allow you to program features on the remote starter, but then when you go to start the car by key, the accessory wire drops power, and this confuses the Prestige and it can't do its job of crank averaging. This would also mean, in turn, that probably either the Toyota black or small BLACK / YELLOW is being mistakenly powered as an accessory....which means it drops out right at the moment it needs to be on....which would certainly make it not remote start correctly.