2000 chrysler town and country

i use mercury tilt switch as well for hoodpins. much easier to use a self tap and drill it into the hood. one wire and thats it.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Now I know why I ended up in hospital last week. Thank the Lord that Kenny noticed the Scotchlock question. The answer of course is NEVER.

thanks guys. That worked out great.

What would I need to do if I wanted to have the windows roll up when I alarm the vehicle?

DEI529t for close, 530t for close and vent.

i was under the impression the 530t was used for vent, open and close? I remembered the 529t was best used for sunroofs/moonroof. That's what learned from you Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Simple close only, use a 529t. You can get clever and make a 530t CLOSE ONLY (or even open only) 4 windows or get a 529t to work both ways on a sunroof depending on the roof and it's mech. P.S. Earlier Hondas, don't know if they still do used a pair of relays on the roof with a NEG going switch. All you had to do was close off the ignition override to the close relay and make it constant, then ground the switch for close from either tilt or slide.

Well this alarm has been working great except now I have my first problem. I can arm and disarm the alarm fine and it works fine as an alarm but the remote start is acting up. I can tell it to start and it cranks but it turns off then starts again. It does this 3 times before it gives up. It acts like the tach wire isn't making contact but it passes the test when I test the tach wire but it hasbeen working from the same cconnection I connected it to on the coil pack this whole time. However my van is also acting up and is stuttering while I drive. I am getting cylinder misfire code from the onboard ecm.   Could this be the cause or should I try to find a new tach connection and run a new tach wire? Thank you in advance everyone.

It's possible the two problems are connected.  Check the R/S's tach wire very closely the entire length.  If you ran it too close to anything hot or in a way it could chaff the insulation, it might be grounding out and causing the mis-fire and providing a poor signal to the R/S.  Common area's are the firewall pass-through and the jump from the firewall to the engine.  It is best to use split-tube loom to protect the tach wire in it's travel from the firewall to the coil pack, using the same path as other wire looms.Soldering is fun!