2012 cruze, dball

The DBALL doesn't show any start wire connection for the chevy cruze,anyone have any experiance with this setup?

Many newer chevy's do not require a starter wire connection. The drop in voltage on the accessory wire triggers the BCM to start the car. So as long as you have the unit programmed to drop accessory during crank it should not be required. However I have not personally done this vehicle so I cannot say for sure. What I can say is to ditch the DB-ALL and get either an idatalink or Fortin bypass. You can search on here and see the multiple issues that seem to come up with the DEI bypasses. The fortin and idata bypasses are 100% more reliable. If you do decide to stick with the DB-ALL, make sure to connect using the W2W method (not D2D) and hardwire the tach connection directly to the vehicle at the very least.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

i am going wtw and hard wiring the tach,thanks for your response.i am doing this car tomorrow so hopefullly everything goes well.this is the first time i've used the DBALL,i usually use fortin bypasses but decided to try this dball.

A couple last minute suggestions: 1) Save yourself some trouble and connect to the (-) parking lights at the BCM. Just make sure to set the unit to a - parking light output (or use a relay if its not a programmable / jumper setting on the r/s) 2) Make sure that the DB-ALL is flashed with the correct firmware for that vehicle. Not sure if you have the XKLoader or if you purchased the bypass pre-flashed, but if it is not flashed, it will not work. 3) Make sure to get your constant 12v+ from RED / dark green wire in the driver kick. Do not connect your 12v+ input at the igntion switch.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

i have the xk-loader and the dball is flashed to the correct vehicle.i will get power in the dr kick as you sugested (thanks). I already planned on the (-) p.light connection.

You can get every wire you need at the bcm. No need to take anything apart except the passenger center console side panel. Bcm is on transmission hump. Lots of prep work but 15 min to install.

ok-DBALL seemed to program properly but car won't crank when remote started.green led on dball flashes slowly which is normal,security bypass light on dash is solid.tach is learned on the mars 33.It will stay running if i start with the key then remote start it.

As far as I know the security light should not be on. It sounds like it did not program properly. I would try resetting it and try it again. Make sure you def. have the correct firmware. it should be 401.GM10 v1.13.07 or 401.GM10 v1.13. Also, what did you connect the blue/white status input wire from the DB-ALL to on the remote starter?Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

the security light comes on with all other dash lights when ign is powered with the key so it's acting the way it should,it does go out right before the car cranks.the bl/wht wire fron dball is going to the GWR blue wire from the rmote start.i am getting all the correct responses from the dball indicator light,just no cranking of the starter,i know theres no start wire connection with this bypass so i'm leaning towards a timing issue.also it does have the correct firmware.

Do you have the unit programmed to drop accessory voltage during crank? Put your meter on the accessory wire and make sure that it is initially powering up, then dropping voltage when the remote starter should be cranking.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205