cranks but no start python 1401/pkall

I have had the RS for a week and half now but I have been experiencing a problem. Sometimes the remote start cranks forever but engine will not fire up. This happened 2 days ago, That morning the engine fired right up(~30 degrees). Later in the day when the weather was warm ~60 degrees. I remote start it and it would not fire seems like as if the immobilizer was active. So i chose to use the key and no problem. Then i shut it down to try the remote start again and it did same thing, crank but engine didnt not fire up. So later that night I tried the RS and if fired up. That problem I experienced happened again today, with same scenario. Do you know what is going on? I suspect the bypass (PKALL)

It's usually easier for us to give you an idea might what be wrong if you could mention what kind of car this is. Regardless, a quick/easy first step would be to look at the PKALL while activating the remote starter. Does the LED on the PKALL light up during attempted remote start?

Chris Luongo wrote: It's usually easier for us to give you an idea might what be wrong if you could mention what kind of car this is. Regardless, a quick/easy first step would be to look at the PKALL while activating the remote starter. Does the LED on the PKALL light up during attempted remote start?

Its a 2000 toyota avalon XLS. I know for sure when it successfully start up the pkall light up. But I havent able to access the pkall when im experience the problem.

Sounds like a tach learning issue.

Did you hook up the tach wire directly or are you using virtual tach? If you have ran a wire, try relearning the tach.

I always,always use a tach wire & never have a problem.

Tach wire should be easy to access. It is listed as a black wire in a gray plug in drivers kick panel, in harness going up to the instrument cluster. Otherwise go directly to a coil or fuel injector.

Good Enough Isn't!

advanced wrote: Sounds like a tach learning issue. Did you hook up the tach wire directly or are you using virtual tach? If you have ran a wire, try relearning the tach. I always,always use a tach wire & never have a problem. Tach wire should be easy to access. It is listed as a black wire in a gray plug in drivers kick panel, in harness going up to the instrument cluster. Otherwise go directly to a coil or fuel injector.

Its using virtual tach, I guess I can connect it directly to the tach wire when the weather is better.

Next time it doesn't start, put the head of the key near the ignition barrel and see if it starts. That will tell you if it is bypass related or something else. Did you connect both ignition wires from the vehicle? Are they connected separately or tied together to a single output of the r/s?Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

If it's a tach issue, you don't have to wait for better weather it's pin 9 on your under dash OBD II aka data connector. Hello Kenny, still convalescing, no work until the middle of next week. At least I'm still breathing. I'm also guessing from the first post that it isn't tach although I would tend to agree with advanced, I'm guessing poor wiring or poor programming to the by-pass.

offroadzj wrote: Next time it doesn't start, put the head of the key near the ignition barrel and see if it starts. That will tell you if it is bypass related or something else. Did you connect both ignition wires from the vehicle? Are they connected separately or tied together to a single output of the r/s?

I forgot to mention this, the first time it happened, I tried putting the key in the ignition and it did not fire up the engine using the RS (I guess its not the bypass that is causing the problem?). and the Ignition wires/wiring are connected to the bypass and from bypass to the RS using D2D.

howie ll wrote: If it's a tach issue, you don't have to wait for better weather it's pin 9 on your under dash OBD II aka data connector. Hello Kenny, still convalescing, no work until the middle of next week. At least I'm still breathing. I'm also guessing from the first post that it isn't tach although I would tend to agree with advanced, I'm guessing poor wiring or poor programming to the by-pass.

Thanks! and I don't think its bad wiring (Even though its still possible) I solder the H3 harness and someone other ones. The ones I did not solder, I used the wire splice. Oh yeah! This morning it was about ~58 degrees and the car started up normally. So its not a weather issue? So I am leaning towards the tach wire. need to connect it the car wiring and not the car ground.