intellistart 4 problems

P.P.S. the only rally relevant wires for an R/S in a 95 Honda... White = 12V+ at ignition loom BLACK/ white =start ditto BLACK / YELLOW = ignition ditto Hood switch Green or GREEN / WHITE at brake switch (test, it's the switched or bulb side). Blue, tach at plug in loom by suspension strut or at coil or at rear of tach gauge. All of the above correctly wired will enable your remote start for testing. Get the above done first.

thanks Howie I will do that this weekend Will report it back here Really appreciate the replies

With that set-up, all the common wiring such as foot brake and tach, hood switch etc. for which you have wiring on both the 5.1 AND the I/start, take it all to the 5.1 except the tach which goes to the I/Start. TAKE CARE the I/Start uses a BLACK/ grey wire which unless you are VERY careful you can mistake for the black ground wire. Your alarm/RS combo has for many years been the only unit available in the UK so I'm giving you these specific instructions based on hard earned and sometimes bitter experience. IMO apart from the very latest Compustar, this is still the best product on the market and for reliability will kick the other branded DEI product all over the market place. OK, no fancy 2-way remotes, no million mile range but it works and it works well.

heres what i can recall from wires without going to physically check tach wire - connected at rear of gauge cluster. Im doing a s2000 cluster swap also parking brake wire - tapped to wire close to park brake switch brake light - switch on top of brake pedal and i know i used the 5.1 wires if theres a common wire to IS4

None of which are essential for R/S, the expression "tapped to wire close to brake switch" worries me for two reasons. How are you joining the cables? "Tapped close to" Have you even tested?

sorry about using the word tapped. kinda used to the word at work when doing connections into existing wires. its soldered to the wire going to parking brake switch. about 3 inches away from switch. and i tested with multimeter.

OK, just testing you passed, amazing how many people still think they can get away with IDC (Scotchlock type) connectors, then wonder why we won't help.

i used to work for semiconductor company and do a lot of electrical work there learned to make sure connections are good there ill check back here when i get more play time on the car though and will double check where everything is connected and how the connections are to make sure everything is still all right there now i know doing too much on the car at the same is not good and thank you so much again for the guide on the correct path

everything works good now redid the ignition connection relearn tach works perfect Thanks again for all the replies

I am having the same problem. Can you give some details on how you fixed it?