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2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 21, 2012 at 11:05 PM / IP Logged  

2012 KIA Optima

This pictorial is for a remote start / keyless entry system. The vehicle was a U.S. market Optima LX. The U.S. non-PTS vehicles do not have a transponder immobilizer system. All Optima's have a Factory Alarm system.

Disassembly:

Remove Drivers Kick Panel by lifting drivers side sill trim at leading edge, remove snap fastner on DKP bottom edge and gently pry trunk release lever straight away & off shaft. Pull DKP side out and then pull to back of vehicle.

Remove driver side dash panel by prying with non-marring tools as shown ( 4 clips ). ( Also shown are the two Phillips screws that retain the lower dash panel and an alternate +12V constant location at the fuse box. )

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

Remove drivers side lower dash panel by removing 4 Phillips screws shown ( two in the prior picture), then gently lift tabs ( Green arrows ) and pull panel straight away from dash.

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

Remove metal knee plate by removing four 10mm bolts marked. Lift up and away.

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

Remove lower steering column cover by removing two Phillips screws ( one at 9 o'clock and one at 3 o'clock ) and one Phillip[s screw in bottom of cover as shown below.

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

Below is a picture of the main ignition connector ( disconnected ) with the wires marked. Harness space is tight ( tilt / telescopic ), so you can use the +12V constant wires at the fuse box shown previously.

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

This is a picture of the Headlight Switch Connector at the steering column with the Parking Light (-) wire marked.

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

Below is a picture of the fuse box connector with the Alarms, Locks and Trunk Release wires. Please reference Tech Tip 1300 ( Thanks, Ted! ) for more info : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1085

Door Pins and Trunk Pin wires are found in this White 24 Pin connector, also.

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

Below is a picture of the Hood Pin wire at fuse box. This picture is from a 2011 Sonata, the Optima's plug is white but the Hood pin wire is the same color / location ( White 34 Pin Plug, Green wire, left row, 2nd up from bottom ).

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

Here is a picture of the Brake and Horn wires found in the bottom connector in the DKP.

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

Here is a picture of a convenient firewall pass-thru for the Tach wire ( This vehicle does not have one-touch starting or built in Anti-Grind.)

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

Here is one loctaion for the a Tach signal ( engine cover removed ). Another Tach source is at the F.I.'s.

2012 Kia Optima R/S w/Keyless Pictorial -- posted image.

Soldering is fun!
pts760 
Copper - Posts: 403
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2009
Location: United States
Posted: March 22, 2012 at 10:42 AM / IP Logged  
With the disarm wire, I have only pulsed the orange wire with a negative disarm trigger from the remote start and have been able to disarm the factory alarm. I've never had to diode isolate and use both brown and orange.
Also, does the green wire at the headlight switch for the auto lamps only have to see open for a split second or is it a timed open circuit? I've never used that wire and it would be pretty convenient since you have to go up there for the parking light wire anyways.
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
kreg357 
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Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 22, 2012 at 2:15 PM / IP Logged  

Good info with that Orange disarm wire. This is the first 2012 Optima I've done ( don't get too many KIA's). I pre-wired on the bench & connected to both Orange & Brown during install. Even tried a double pulse to see if it unlocks the doors too ( like on the Sonata ) but no luck.

I believe the Green AutoHeadlights wire actually needs to be interrupted ( used GWR & relay ) while the engine is running. Just pre-wired a relay during bench prep and installed it that way. Tested by blocking the dash light sensor during a remote start. At key-takeover, the headlights came on. It worked fine so I didn't do any further testing. BTW, this wire and the Parking Light wire are very easy to get to on the Sonata at the BCM. From what I can tell, it doesn't hurt anything if you don't disable the AutoHeadlights during R/S.

Maybe Chev104275 can add some enlightenment...

Soldering is fun!
chev104275 
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Posted: March 23, 2012 at 5:13 PM / IP Logged  
Great write up kreg ha ha I've had pic on my phone of this car and a sedona for a month now but can't get them off to post guess I can delete them now
As far as the lights go all I ever use is the pink at the switch and never had a problem or complaint
The locks I use the yellow/black and pink/black just like you did and just the orange for disarm. The only problem I found as with a lot of newer kias is if the car is locked and armed for around a min. The car ingnores the unlock command and won't unlock the car from the interior switch or after market fob. There's a yellow/orange wire in the back of the fuse box. (28 pin connector pin 12) that I doide isolate from the unlock wire (band toward the remote start) and that works for me. I've done dozens this way. I don't usually do arm I'm going to try it on my next one see if it changes anything as far as the locks go that's the only difference I see from yours to mine Hopefully you won't have it come back with the locks not working right
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
racerjames76 
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Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: March 27, 2012 at 10:09 AM / IP Logged  

I use audiovox units and simply pulse before start the disarm wire, and the lock detection wire (diode isolated from each other obviously). Sometimes a double pulse is needed, but it works very well.

chev104275 
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Posted: March 27, 2012 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged  
The only other thing I see is that is a GDI motor so the injectors won't work for tach I use the coil and havent had a problem yet      just finished one about 20 mins ago
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
kreg357 
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Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 27, 2012 at 7:27 PM / IP Logged  
More good info.  Thanks, Joe!  All of the wiring guides list the F.I. wires as a Tach source for the KIA/Hyundai GDI engine but I always found it easier to go to a Spark Plug Coil and like you said, it always works.
Soldering is fun!
tedmond 
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Posted: March 28, 2012 at 12:59 AM / IP Logged  
you can also get tach inside the vehicle. GRAY @ DKP WHITE 43 pin plug PIN 4.
glad the document worked for you.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
chev104275 
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Posted: March 28, 2012 at 5:31 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks Ted I'll have to try that tomorrow   unfortunately it seems like everybody wants to wait for there car lately so I have no time to play around and find things like that
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,321
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 28, 2012 at 6:12 AM / IP Logged  
In the U.S. market LX from the pictorial, I looked but couldn't find that Gray Tach wire.   Pin 4 should be the fourth one up in the far left column.   ( Can't really see that area in the Brake / Horn picture.)   Figured it was only in the turbo or PTS models.  Please get a photo of it to add, Joe. 
Soldering is fun!
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