viper 5501 '94 volvo 850

all i can say is make sure you checked every fuse in every fuse box and inspect every bit of wiring you can see for signs of damage. look at contacts and circuit boards for signs of burnt traces. check anywhere you put a screw and where you drilled through the firewall for the siren because maybe you drilled into something you shouldn't have or grazed a wire harness with a drill bit leaving some cut or exposed wires.

No holes were drilled. No screws added. Only tapped 2 constant 12v wires @ ignition harness as well as starter, ignition and accessory. Power for brain was tapped on constant 12v before the fuse. Good known ground was used. Can get car to start by unplugging car for a minute. Starts rough and idles fine. As soon as i put it in reverse and back up a little bit the transmission light starts blinking and the car dies and won't start until process is repeated..

Unfortunately for you, you've discovered the hard way why the instructions say "not for DIYers, get it done professionally". Also maybe in future you won't be in a rush to buy second hand product from fleabay. Unless you find a blown fuse or non-continuity to your ignition switch or a burnt out wire, taking it to a pro now is probably equal to writing off the car.

I've installed about 20 remote starts just like this one with no problems. All of the wires that were tapped in to were metered first. The reason it was bought on ebay and installed myself is i wasnt about to pay $400 to have a remote start installed in my winter beater that's worth about that much. Guess I just thought the whole reason for this forums was for "diyers" to get help...thanks anyways.

cpuguy06 wrote: I've installed about 20 remote starts just like this one with no problems. All of the wires that were tapped in to were metered first. The reason it was bought on ebay and installed myself is i wasnt about to pay $400 to have a remote start installed in my winter beater that's worth about that much. Guess I just thought the whole reason for this forums was for "diyers" to get help...thanks anyways.

obviously something was hooked up wrong. ive seen a lot of things go wrong with remote starters over the years but the truth of the matter is that its not possible for a properly installed remote starter to hurt a car like what happened in your case. the ignition functions are done through internal relays so they will either work or they wont. if the remote starter somehow sent ground to a 12v wire then there would be a blown fuse somewhere. either you damaged a wire somewhere and it is hanging somewhere unhooked or grounded out or you hooked one of your other wires, (door pin maybe?)to something it should not be hooked to. i will almost guarantee that if you investigate your whole install that you will find something wrong with something.

The car wasn't starting due to a bad throttle position sensor...coincidence that it stopped working at the same time as the remote start was installed?? Eh, working now so immaterial. Got that replaced and the car starts fine without remote start connected. As far as the remote start connections... -Door trigger (+) is hooked to a yellow/white wire that shows 0 volts when the door is open and 12 volts when the door is closed. -(2) Constant 12v wires both show 12 volts all the time and 14 and some change when car is started. -Accessory wire shows 12 volts when the ignition is on, but car is not started. When the car is cranking (car starts pretty quickly after initiating start), the voltage dips down to 1 volt and then comes back up to 14 when the car starts. -Starter wire shows 12 volts when cranking but no other time. -Ignition wire shows 12 volts when key is put in the run position and dips down to around 10-11 volts when cranking and then comes back up to 13-14 volts. -Power for the brain is tapped off of the 12 volt constant. -Ground is attached to bare area of metal with a screw. -Brake (brown) shows 12 volts when brake pedal is pressed and 0 when its not. -Neutral position switch is attached to same place as ground. I'm definitely open to suggestions, but I think everything is hooked up correctly...Thanks again!

ok. your door pin is backwards, you should be using the negative door pin wire if it shows 0v when the door is open. this still doesnt explain not holding the settings in memory though.

Sorry, Mis typed. Is hooked up to green wire on viper brain which is negative door trigger.

And now it's morning here I would have made exactly the same point that Soundnsecurity made about the R/S not causing the grief. I also mentioned ECU originally so don't dare accuse us of not giving advice. Your ground is wrong, a self tapping screw will a)Make a poor ground. b)Work loose. Use a an M6 (10mm spanner) bolt at the firewall and scrape the paint away, or even an existing ground bolt, contrary to the instructions there's nothing wrong with that. Assuming you're using a crimped and or soldered ring terminal.

A)Nothing wrong with ECU...the viper brain is messed up. After all I did buy it on "fleabay". B)I didn't use a self tapping screw. I used an existing one. Sorry I left that detail out. Thanks again!