rfhvhtoo, did you look at the links I posted?
If you did, hopefully it should not take much for you too realise how false YOUR claims are.
I've already said that it is charge - ie, current - that charges a battery. Please google for how a capacitor works, or review those links.
So a capacitor is NOT to have a large reserve?
Thank you - you have just agreed with why we continuously state that caps are useless for 12V audio supply purposes (as compared to a battery (excluding AGM protection and "remote" voltage smoothing).
I guess that's why audio forums say you only need 0.5F and not 1F or 10F etc.
Mind you, I thought the usual desire for a power cap was to MAINTAIN the amp's voltage - ie, have sufficient capacity to "ride through" a burp or 5-second high demand that the alternator can't supply.
Again, battery self recovery is NOT recharging. There is absolutely ZERO recharging involved. It is merely stabilisation of its chemicals that increase its internal voltage. (So too is "surface charge" though that does involve its "excess" current or rather, its additional surface charge.)
A battery can only recharge with an external source.
So capacitors do not involve current flow? I beats me why power capacitors (for mains/AC use) are "specified" for different currents (based on their hold up time with 50Hz or 60Hz with or an
acceptable voltage sag).
But in that case, what do they involve - voltage with no current - ie, no power? Good - you have just shown why caps are useless.
I guess that link showing the LED lighting with a series capacitance is false, as are other sites and books and the theory and equations that confer the same.
I must find out why my ciruits work if the current isn't flowing thru the series (and un-paralleled) cap - maybe it's flowing thru the cap's plastic insulating cover, or arcing thru the air. Or maybe you have discovered a tunneling-capacitor!
You want to compare Joules? Calculate the Joules in a 1F cap and compare that to a battery. What was it? - a typical car battery has 10,000,000 times the Joules of a 1F cap? (Another 12volter supplied the correct figures the last time I posted similar.)
Start by replying with the number of Joules for a 1F capacitor discharging fro 14.4V to 12.6V - or similar figures of your choosing.
If have explained to the best I can without spending time rethinking my explanations so that you might understand easier. But I won't detail or repeat basic knowledge and tutorials that are so available on the web and elsewhere. That's a waste of my time.
It's a different matter if someone needs clarification to some site's or source's meaning.
However, it seems this thread has come to a natural ending since you have not provided info sources. Ergo, we are all operating from "opinion" (excluding the links and their links).
My opinion is based on a reasonable understanding of electronic and electric theory, and having debunked various crap; having done what others have claimed is impossible; and revolutionised certain industry practices, equipment specifications, and designs by coming up with novel alternatives or, again, showing how wrong or false certain "accepted" practices were.
Others here may be similar, but certainly have decades of experience as well as a history dealing with issues like this. A quick read of this site should make their expertise obvious - many times solving what other industry "experts" and equipment/vehicle originators can't.
BTW - when you quote sources, don't quote
floridaspl unless its from one of the few that do offer correct information. Same for other car-audio forums except for the few reputable "source" forums.
[If
Tommy thinks this is a headspin, check out what those forums (and Yahoo Answers) etc write. OMG!]
If you want to discuss REAL problems you are having, we'll take it from there and determine where they are occurring.
If you really want to solve the problem, the break away from the present moronic amplifiers. Split its PSU and move that to the battery/alternator, then run its smaller cables (maybe +ve, GND, and -ve) to the amp.
Honestly, an industry that maximises input current (by sticking to 12V) and carries that over long heavy conductors, and uses 1-Ohm loads instead of 4 or 8 Ohm etc...