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viper 4103 remote start, '89 535i


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hipmusicman 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: August 05, 2012
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: August 06, 2012 at 11:51 AM / IP Logged  
The locks are positive locks and require all 12 volts instead of the little things .5 that the module puts out.
I'm now having a problem with the tach. It won't show anything unless you either rev the engine up quite a bit (even then it fluxuates a lot) or you press the brake and it goes back to normal. The brake isn't hooked up to the module yet. Sounds like ur gas to do with the computer in the car. Any ideas?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 06, 2012 at 12:33 PM / IP Logged  
WHITE/ Green to lock and WHITE/ BLACK / YELLOW dots to unlock?
That means yours is an 89 not an 88.
Tach is black wire at the coil or black into rear of instrument panel. How are you testing for it?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 06, 2012 at 12:45 PM / IP Logged  
New hood pin to go to front scuttle I believe the original was there anyway. Use a Euro type hoodpin from DEI etc. as a direct replacement.
No tach at the diagnostic from that vintage Kregg, only from about 99.
Are you getting outputs from the R/S?
Have you tested?
By the way if you have a comfort close option you will close the windows and roof if present when you lock the car.
N.B. You won't get ACC until after the R/S has started the car.
Do me a favour, check your violet (purple) ACC wire at the ignition and tell me if it still shows 12V+ when cranking.
If so you need to connect ign 2 output wire to that wire and disconnect the R/S orange ACC from that wire.
Sorry I can't be more precise, I haven't worked on one of these since about 98!
hipmusicman 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: August 05, 2012
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: August 06, 2012 at 2:01 PM / IP Logged  

ok i looked into it a little more. when i dissconnect the tach wire from the remote start the problem goes away. when you test the tach wire with a dmm the voltage goes down when switched to dc as you press the gas. when switched to ac the voltage goes up. im thinking this has something to do with it. if i understand right, most cars the voltage will go up on dc when you press the gas. what do i need to fix this? do i have to hook up the wire in a different area? im not sure what's between the sensor and the tach. wiring diagrams say there's nothing.

( http://www.wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/1989%20BMW%20525i%20-%20535i%20Electrical%20Troubleshooting%20Manual.pdf) scroll down to instrument cluster and move forward a couple pages til you find the tach.

might try finding a different wire or something.

also i haven't yet installed the brake wire into the remote start yet. do you think that could be the problem. then again it shoudln't be messing with the tach like that.

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 06, 2012 at 3:11 PM / IP Logged  
Your last post is irrelevant and incorrect.
Irrelevant because I've already told you where the tach wire lives.
Incorrect because as I thought you don't test tach the way you described.
Set your DMM to 20VAC.
You will get a reading of 3-5VAC increasing as you rev up.
Anyway I'm making no more replies to this thread youy appear to want to blunder on regardless.
hipmusicman 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: August 05, 2012
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: August 06, 2012 at 4:49 PM / IP Logged  
I'm just trying to figure out what's wrong with my tach. It isn't working when connected to the remote start.
hipmusicman 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: August 05, 2012
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: August 06, 2012 at 4:55 PM / IP Logged  
I tested and tapped at back of panel.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 06, 2012 at 6:33 PM / IP Logged  

I believe the 4103 has a jumper setting for Tach threshold.  Try switching the jumper to ON and re-learning the Tach signal.

Soldering is fun!
hipmusicman 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: August 05, 2012
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: August 06, 2012 at 7:11 PM / IP Logged  
ooh! i'll try that. and how do you program the unit for start run times, door locking when key in and out of ignition and some of the others.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 06, 2012 at 7:25 PM / IP Logged  

Not sure if this is the latest manual, but  it might help with the jumpers & programming.  ( Avital is a DEI brand like Viper )

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=738

Soldering is fun!
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