when is interface module required?

Get real, the cowling is the outer cover of the instrument panel. I just sat with a customer drinking his tea for over an hour whilst he tried to juggle a shock sensor to correct it, all the time the dual zone prox was triggering off.

howie ll wrote: Get real, the cowling is the outer cover of the instrument panel.

Oh... good thing I didn't drill that hole in my firewall. :) I still can't picture where you were suggesting a hole. When you said you take the opportunity (instrument cluster removed) to drill the hole, all I could think of is access to the firewall. If it's the dash, or the visor-like thing shading (cover?) the instrument panel, I can't think of where it would go (in terms of you saying it can't be seen when driving).

howie ll wrote: I just sat with a customer drinking his tea for over an hour whilst he tried to juggle a shock sensor to correct it, all the time the dual zone prox was triggering off.

Ok, I can see how that could happen with those sensors (which seem twitchier to me than tilt and glass break). Wouldn't it help if an inline toggle-switch were added to each sensor so either could be ruled out when adjusting/debugging? Not trying to say you're wrong. I'm just trying to think through what the issue is. If it's what I think it is, it seems like a switch would improve the problem a lot.(?)

A cover, e.g. steering column, dashboard is cowl or cowling. Many slope down and towards the windscreen thus install on that reverse slope. The answer is to install and set up ONE sensor at a time but IMO the glass break is rubbish, the tilt unreliable and extremely prone to falsing. And of course with a decently* set up dual zone prox, all the others are inside its warn away zone so why bother? *By decently, trying to make any of these sensors 100% is a lesson in the law of diminished returns and frankly from my point of view no customer can afford to pay me double just to get those sensors to 100%

Thanks for the explanation about where you would drill the LED hole. It seems like the Accent's dash slopes more inward. But, I'll have to look at it with this new thought. (I was just thinking of putting it down low around the knees.). I would have never thought the tilt sensor is prone to false alarms. I assumed that's the one thing that would be the most stable (since the car shouldn't move). I'll try a dual-zone proximity sensor. I wasn't considering that because I assumed it would be prone to false alarms (a cat jumping on the car, a busy street.). But, it would be fun to try one. If it doesn't work out at least I got some experience. It's not like they're expensive.

howie ll wrote: The answer is to install and set up ONE sensor at a time but IMO the glass break is rubbish, the tilt unreliable and extremely prone to falsing.

i love my glass break sensor, ive had one on every car i have. true it can be set off by squeaky brakes or a phone left in your car but i still like it. i also have a proximity sensor iin the center console but i unhooked it because it would constantly warn every few minutes. i had it spliced into the same inputs as the glass break sensor and they seem to not like being hooked together. they are diode isolated but im thinking i may need to hook it to something completely different. i might run the proximity sensor inside my tailgate to protect the cargo area but i think that might be a very bad idea.

As you can see everyone has their own ideas but the general consensus amongst pros is that too many cooks spoil the broth.

yup, too many sensors can be very annoying and very hard to set up.