sub box build

20silverado06 wrote: Ive built 2 before. I was tired when I said brace how. I know what you were talking bout. It just didn't hit me right away. And yea I'm going to use wood glue then seal the edges then varnish it. And the reason why plywood first is cause I got plenty of plywood laying around

Cool!  So why not just make the enclosure out of plywood?  It will work just fine if you brace it properly.

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k i will try that. but just for thoughts what bout this design

That sort of design can work well, but in your case the enclosure is already too small so adding that sort of vent would only make it smaller and more boomy.  Unless yu can double your enclosure size, I can't recommend it in your case.Support the12volt.com

well i can still raise my rear seat up and gain a couple of inches. and what if i copy these measurments http://www./itm/Dual-12-Subwoofer-Box-Fits-1500-Silverado-Sierra-Ext-Cab-1999-2007-Obcon-/230765023049?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item35baaacf49

then that will add 2 ins all around to make it bigger and still make it 55"width x 16"deep x 11'tall(front)9.5"tall(back)

ok let me start over. im going to be raising my rear seat up 2in. that will give me 55"long x 16"deep x 11"tall(front)and 9"tall(back). heres the new dimensions. i would like to do the labyrinth version if possible but if not what bout the round port version with 2 ports and a 1/4 open divider. let me know what you think. and sorry for all the bs

You can't just put any old labyrinth (AKA slot port) or port tube into a system.  You have to design it for a particular length and volume to tune the enclosure at the desired frequency.  For your woofers, to get any sub bass at all out of them, you have to tune very low, like 21Hz.  Do some calculations and figure out what that means your port length needs to be for the size of your enclosure and the size of the opening you plan to build.Support the12volt.com