ohio gen alternator for 2007 pathfinder

Geez - it's virtually nothing (16A) at 1600RPM. My ~90A alternator puts out at least 50A @ 600RPM ('cos I measured 45A battery charging current at idle). But your table is alternator RPM and I'm talking engine RPM, though my RPM ratios is almost identical (a 1:1.04 pulley ratio). You might however find lights dipping at idle... Nice max output though. Just make sure you don't have any faulty (collapsed cell) AGMs connected! (Nor any other "dry" or boiling battery for that matter.) And if viewable, check your battery fluid level now & again. 14.5V is borderline high-side, especially if no temperature compensation.    PS - Whilst preparing the toast & coffee I am now devouring, I was thinking of an old school project. The plot was someone that intended to reduce the idle speed of their V8 for improved fuel economy during peak hour traffic. I can't recall exact figures, but the RPM drop was something like 100-150RPM and the "peak idling" time was reasonably substantial - ie 20-30 minutes per day. The result was a $0.75c saving over one year. I remember thinking how surpisingly little it was, but idling does consume little fuel. That 75c is now probably $2 (AUD$), but stateside it's probably 75c today (cheaper prices). And BTW, the data we used was from lab testing.

i saw that too on the low side of the chart. I hope (pray) the output is higher at engine RPM at idle. I think the yellow top should help and keep up with the alternator. Your wisdom is greatly need? Do you think a cap would help in these install. I have a Alum-pro CAP5 that i can put in?The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

here are the spec on the yellowtop from there site: Battery Model:      D35 Part Number:      8040-218 Performance Data Cold Cranking Amps:      620 Cranking Amps:      770 Nominal Voltage:      12 volts Open Circuit Voltage (fully charged):      13.1 volts Internal Resistance (fully charged):      0.003 ohms Capacity:      48 Ah (C/20) Reserve Capacity:      BCI: 98 minutes (25 amp discharge, 80°F (26.7°C), to 10.5 volts cut-off) Recommended Charging The following charging methods are recommended to ensure a long battery life: (Always use a voltage regulated charger with voltage limits set as described below.) Model: D35 These batteries are designed for starting and deep cycling applications and for use in vehicles with large accessory loads.. Recommended Charging Information Alternator:      13.65 to 15.0 volts Battery Charger:      13.8 to 15.0 volts; 10 amps maximum; 6-12 hours approximate Float Charge:      13.2 to 13.8 volts; 1 amp maximum (indefinite time at lower voltages) Rapid Recharge (Constant voltage charger):      Maximum voltage 15.6 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below 1 amp. Cyclic or Series String Applications::       14.7 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 2 amp constant current for 1 hour.The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

A battery does not "keep up" with an alternator. The alternator either supplies the full load else the battery partially supplies the load. A cap will have no effect. Even the smallest battery is equivalent to several thousand Farads. And people that say a battery only supplies from below ~12.7V, or 13.1V according to those Optima specs, should investigate a battery's surface-charge "capacitance". (After recharging, a battery's open circuit voltage is usually 13.6V or higher. That can take ~24 hours to bleed off, or minutes with headlights etc.) A battery is the best cap. The only use for a cap is to protect AGM batteries from high-current surges (discharges, eg as found in multi-kW audio systems) when there are not enough parallel AGMs, or when voltage smoothing is required and a battery is not suitable.    I wonder how many engine bays are under 125°F (51.7°C) or how many temperature monitor their battery? Not that Optima is the choice of many that I know.

be careful with using a yellow top as a main battery. it is more meant for using as a reserve battery so if you drain it a little it might not have the cranking amps to start your truck.

I replaced the factor ground with Knukonceptz Kolossus 4-awg. It was the best wire for the money that would fit in the thought the ground sensor. The sensor opening is 13mm so what ever wire you get it cant be larger then that. Removing the ground and sensor: 1) start by removing the ground on the battery and then the positive terminals, Put a duct tape over the positive terminal (i like to play it safe). remove the battery for better open work space. 2) remove the connector on top of the ground sensor( I used needle nose to press the clip). Then the sensor from the metal bracket(slide it straight up... may need a little force). 3) remove the 10mm bolt connecting the middle ring terminal of the ground wire to the bracket. Last remove the bolt from the engine side of the wire. Remove the Paint and clean surfaces: 1) remove the 10mm bolt in the middle connecting the bracket. 2) sand the front and back of the bracket and the bottom plate of the area where the bracket sits on. Also sand and clean where the wire connects to the engine( i used a wire brush) Make the wire. 1)Start by getting whole wire length on the new 4-awg. use the old wire for measurements. stripe and solder one end with a ring terminal and use heat shrink tubing. 2)next you will need to get a ring terminal that has a splice in the barrel so you can open it up to connect it in the middle. Crimp and then solder the middle terminal don't forget to slide in a hear shrink tube before you put the terminal on. 3) Next slide the sensor back on the wire before you put on the last ring terminal or in my case I change the battery terminal that use open end wire. 4)Finally connect it all back up in reverse order and you don't. Now you have a solid ground from your battery to engine. The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

Upgraded the cheap 12awg ground from the engine block to the frame on the drivers side with 4awg. Next will be to upgrade with a 0awg to the Engine ground where the battery is also grounded to the main frame. Also will add a 0awg at the rear where the amp rack will be for the JL Audio 1-500/1 and 2-300/4 amps to the main frame on the driver-side. Then comes the biggie, Ohio Gen Alt install :) The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

OK just received all the power and ground wires for the Alternator and amps. I love KnuKnoceptz wires. All ready at $600 just for the power, ground and RCA cables. As soon as it warms up in here i can do my Alt and power wire install..... 1/0 main power kolossus 1/0 and 4awg kolossus The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

SO guys i need some help...... I want to replace the OEM battery in the pathfinder I am looking at XS and optima yellow top brands, can anyone give me any suggestions..... oh ya, money is not a problem, i just want the best and hassle free?????? The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

If you are only using one battery, then I'd stick with a wet cell rather than an AGM. They are far more robust for typical vehicle use. Different if it's a dual battery setup. WRT AGMs, I know nothing of the XS Power, and I have never recommended Optima in this millennium. I have often read great things stateside about Kinetic, and after writing about my local recommendations, many agreed that Deka are also good. Alas my beloved Yuasa have apparently dropped quality and are too expensive compared to the others recommended. But for cranking, wet cells are the more robust. And certainly if ever (over-) flattened, wet cells are the way to go. But some have excellent results with AGMs as their main battery, though AFAIK, they are still rarely as price effective.