2011 Hyundai Sonata Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial

2011 Hyundai Sonata remote start with keyless entry DIY pictorial.

Notes :

This was a basic U.S. domestic market Sonata GLS.  This vehicle has a Factory Alarm and a standard key ( non-PTS ).U.S. market Sonata's without Push To Start do not have a transponder immobilizer system, so no bypass module isnecessary.  The Factory FOB's do not work while the engine is running so a R/S system with keyless entry is suggested.  The Factory Alarm will not trigger with just a remote start so a Disarm is only necessary with an Unlock or Trunk Release.  This vehicle does not have "one touch starting" so it is a candidate for Anti-Grind and Tach Mode starting.

Disassembly :

Using a non-marring trim tool, remove the dash side panel.  The arrow indicates a notch for trim tool insertion.

Remove the two screws indicated in this photo :

Remove the two screws shown in this picture and release the lower dash panel from the side and then pull straight

away from the dash.  The are three retainer clips along the top edge.

Remove the knee plate by removing the four 10mm bolts shown with Yellow arrows and the one 10mm nut shown

with the orange arrow.

Remove the one screw shown at the underside of the steering column.

Remove two screws located at 3 and 9 O'Clock ( 3 O'Clock shown ).  Then separate the upper and lower halves of the

steering column cover and remove both.

Not shown is the Drivers Kick Panel removal.  The hood release lever is remover by compressing the pivot shaft fingers

and pulling the lever straight off the shaft.  Remove the door sill trim by lifting it straight up then grasp the DKP and remove it by pulling it back and away.

Wiring :

This is a picture of the lower right corner of the dash fuse box.  The three wires in the Black plug are an alternate

+12V power source, each at 30 Amps.  Close-ups to follow.

This is a close up of the White 24 Pin Plug with the wire marked.

This is a close-up of the Hood Pin wire.

Here is a shot of the left side of the steering column.

This is a close up of the Main Ignition Harness.  Use caution / be gentle when disconnecting this plug, it can cause

the ignition switch to come apart.

This is a picture of the Keysense wire at the right side of the steering column.  Note that the wire color changes

at each side of the connector junction.

Here is a photo of the Driver Kick Panel area.

The Brake wire is located in the DKP, top plug, pictured below (close-up).

Also in the DKP, bottom plug, is the Horn wire (close-up).

The Parking Lights can be found either at the Headlight Switch connector in the steering column...

or the BCM, which in located under the dash to the right side of the steering column.  Also shown is the Rear Defrost

wire and the Auto Headlights wire.  The Rear Defrost requires a (-) pulse to turn on and will light the Defrost lightat the console switch.  Another pulse will turn it off.

This is a picture of a Tach source, found at any Spark Plug Coil.  ( Engine cover removed, lift straight up, retained

by four pins.)

Notes :

There are several large grommets located in the firewall for wire pass thru.On this vehicle, a double pulse to the two Disarm wires ( Orange & Brown ) will also unlock the doors.

Soldering is fun!

Awesome writeup!! Thanks!! I have a question about 2 pictures you have for the ignition harness. The one labeled 2011 Sonata Main Ignition Connector shows a brown wire and the other one below that shows a red wire, with all other 5 wires matching. Are these 2 different harnesses? I did a 2010 a few months back but can't remember which colors it had on the ignition harness. I always test everything of course but was wondering on the difference.

Hi Frank,

Thanks for catching my error.  Somehow I got the two folders mixed up.    ( Teach me to forget the vehicle label in the corner...)

The top picture is correct for the 2011 Sonata.  The Sonatas' two +12V constant wires are Green and Brown, both rated at 40 Amps.  The second picture is from a 2012 KIA Optima.  Aside from the Red vs Brown color change, everything else, including the pin locations on that plug, is the same.  Sister cars but slightly different. 

Sorry for the confusion, wish I could edit that second picture out.

Kreg

Soldering is fun!

No worries at all. I always test everything (as everyone should) but thought I would ask. That's neat how the wiring was almost identical. Shows they are definitely related. Thanks again for the great writeup!!!

This is a great post and is super helpful to me! I'm currently trying to install the following remote/push button start system: http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK104B.html They have 2 manuals on that page that show how to install the system (in a basic way), and most of the wires match up with what you have here. There are just a few wires that aren't mentioned and I'm wondering if you can help me out. Just for reference--I have a 2011 GLS with a M/T. If you have the time, go read the descriptions of the connections of the manuals located at that link--it will help clarify which connections I'm referring to. 1.) ON 2/2nd Ignition Output -- If you look at the manual it says "if applicable." I see an "Ignition +" wire in your picture so is this just the "ON 1/Primary Ignition Output" and there is no 2nd output? 2.) Bypass Module Control -- The manual mentions keysense input. Do I need to worry about this wire or is it extra? I only see a few keysense wires on your diagram and wasn't sure if those were the ones I'm looking for. What does keysense do for the GLS? 3.) Ground When Running -- Again, this mentions keysense. Do you know where this is? 4.) Neutral Safety Switch -- Since I have a manual transmission this would be important. Do you have any idea what wire it might be? 5.) Parking Lights x2 -- The parking lights you call out are negative I believe. If you look at the manual this calls for a positive side. It says "connect the positive side of parking lights or the hazard light switch for same effect." Is this wire located in the same area? 6.) Lock & Unlock -- Your pictures show a 24 pin plug that lists door triggers as well as trunk, lock, unlock. Are the triggers just the switches in the door, or are they used for the alarm, or are they connections to some sort of lock solenoids? I got a little confused here. I'm assuming that the lock & unlock are NOT the triggers (I'm assuming lock & unlock goes to the solenoids) but wanted to make sure as apparently this connection goes to the lock/unlock signal wires. 7.) Door Switch -- I'm assuming this is the door trigger I just mentioned? It says to "connect to vehicle's door open signal wire." If you look at the manual there is only 1 wire, so would you just pick the driver's door and hook it up to that? Sorry for my huge post, but I'd appreciate any help you can give!

OK.  The pictorial was on a Sonata GLS with Automatic Transmission.  From your description, your car has a Manual Transmission.  No

mention was made and your profile info does not give a location but if this is a U.S. market vehicle there will be no transponder based ignition immobilizer system installed.  However, if this is a Canadian market vehicle, then it will have a transponder system and need a bypass module.

My main issue with this setup is the remote start function.  It appears that the Advanced Keys system has no specific Manual Transmission

Reservation Mode like a manual transmission safe remote start system.  The Manual Transmission Reservation Mode ensures the vehicle is left in neutral upon vehicle exit and then shuts down the engine and locks the doors.  All this is done to prevent the engine from being remote started with the transmission in gear.  It's a very important safety issue because the clutch interlock switch must be bypassed to allow a remote start ( the vehicle thinks the clutch is depressed even though there is no one in the vehicle and the clutch pedal is not actually depressed ).  Forum rules forbid discussions on installing a non-manual transmission safe remote start system into a manual transmission vehicle.  Wedo have an authorized dealer for this product that is an active forum member and perhaps he can shed some light on this product.

If the vehicle has a true Neutral Safety signal output, there is a way to do the install.  Without that signal, forum rules prevent too much

discussion on this topic / install.  Installing the Keyless entry module is fine.  Adding the PTS module would be OK as long as you only used it as a PTS switch from inside the car while manually depressing the clutch pedal, not for remote starting.

On to the Questions ( I am going by the info in the product install guides, I have never seen / installed / used these items  )  :

1.)  The vehicle only has one Ignition wire.  Your aftermarket system has two available but only one will be needed.      Please note that the vehicle has two Accessory wires and the aftermarket system only has one Accessory Output.  Additionally      the install guide has a cut key blade inserted into the ignition switch and left in the ACC position with the Accessory wire      interrupted with a switch.  In your case you would need to interrupt two Accessory wires with switches and use an extra external      relay to power the second Accessory wire during a PTS.2.)  If you have a US market vehicle no bypass module is required and this wire would be "not used".3.)  Yes, connect the GWR wire to the Keysense wire shown in the pictorial.4.)  NSS   Here is where the fun begins.  Your vehicle has a manual transmission and to start the vehicle, you must depress the clutch       pedal.  Your aftermarket system has a remote start capability but IMHO is not actually designed for a Manual Transmission vehicle.      Your PTS system should only be installed if you can locate an actual Neutral Safety signal that outputs a (-) signal when the transmission      is in neutral.  I can not find any wire guide listing for an actual Neutral Safety wire.5.) The Pictorial shows the (-) Parking Light wire and most installers would use a relay to convert the AK104's (+) Parking Light output      to the desired (-) signal the vehicle needs.  But you can do it another way, using the two AK104 (+) Parking Light wires with this info :      Parking Lights (+)      GREEN/ Black + (Left), BROWN / Black + (Right) @ dash fuse box, Black 39 pin plug (A), pins 25 and 7

6.) Your AK104 system does not have a separate Factory Alarm Arm and Disarm output, only Lock and Unlock.  This will make it difficult     to control these functions.  Disarm requires a Double Pulse that is possible with the proper setting of JP3 on the AK104 but will require      diodes to split the Unlock output wire into three legs going to three wire locations on the white 24 pin plug shown.  Factory Alarm Arm      is a whole different story.  It will require a SPDT relay and diodes, wired to open a vehicle wire and pulse another, as indicated below :          Factory Alarm Arm       Yellow and Brown, (-) and open @ dash fuse box, White 24 pin plug (D), pins 15 and 22

     Also remember that a Disarm is required before a Trunk Release or the Factory Alarm will be triggered.7.)  While the AK104 only has one Door Trigger Input, you should monitor all four doors, the trunk and the hood.  To do this split the AK104's      Door Trigger Input wire into 6 leads using the standard 1N400x diode ( band towards the AK104 ) and connect to the vehicles trigger      wires ( leave JP1 set to - ).

Considering all the above, especially the vehicles manual transmission & Factory Alarm and needed relay circuits and diodes, I would suggest

bringing this to a trained / certified installer.

Soldering is fun!

As and Advanced Keys dealer (and someone who's worked with the system, I will try to add some input to Kreg's post (see comments in bold)

kreg357 wrote: On to the Questions ( I am going by the info in the product install guides, I have never seen / installed / used these items  )  : 1.)  The vehicle only has one Ignition wire.  Your aftermarket system has two available but only one will be needed. Please note that the vehicle has two Accessory wires and the aftermarket system only has one Accessory Output.  Additionally the install guide has a cut key blade inserted into the ignition switch and left in the ACC position with the Accessory wire interrupted with a switch.  In your case you would need to interrupt two Accessory wires with switches and use an extra external relay to power the second Accessory wire during a PTS. If you use the cut key turned to ACC method then yes you will have to interrupt both accessory wires. It's as simple as just cutting the wires and tying your new connections into the wire that goes towards the vehicle (not the switch side). On mine, I interrupted all of the wires so there was no issue of someone figuring out there was a 'key' in the ignition and stealing the vehicle (no immobilizer to prevent it). However, and I could be mistaking on this, I am fairly certain there is either a jumper setting or a programming option to change the ON2 to an accessory output... but my install guide that I had for it has disappeared on me and I can't get access to a guide at the moment. Check through the directions to be sure. If not then you will have to use a relay. 2.)  If you have a US market vehicle no bypass module is required and this wire would be "not used". This is 100% correct. You can do a quick test by completely covering the head (plastic part) of the key in tin foil and trying to start the car. If it starts and runs more than 2 minutes then there is no chip and no bypass is required. 3.)  Yes, connect the GWR wire to the Keysense wire shown in the pictorial. Make sure to cut the keysense wire and connect this to the vehicle side of the keysense wire. Also be careful because there are 2 wires that can be used for keysense or bypass. One is (+) and one is (-). Make sure to use the correct wire depending on the keysense wire (+0 vs (-) 4.)  NSS   Here is where the fun begins.  Your vehicle has a manual transmission and to start the vehicle, you must depress the clutch pedal.  Your aftermarket system has a remote start capability but IMHO is not actually designed for a Manual Transmission vehicle. Your PTS system should only be installed if you can locate an actual Neutral Safety signal that outputs a (-) signal when the transmission is in neutral.  I can not find any wire guide listing for an actual Neutral Safety wire. From what I have heard from my tech support as well as what I can see in the instructions, the remote start function is NOT designed for manual transmissions. It MUST be disabled on any manual transmission to ensure yours, your neighbors, and anyone around your car's safety. If it is left activated, the car will start and drive away if left in gear. The instructions show you how to disable the remote start function. Make sure to actually disable it (test to be sure) and not just "not use it" because the buttons can be pressed while in your pocket and bad things WILL happen. 5.) The Pictorial shows the (-) Parking Light wire and most installers would use a relay to convert the AK104's (+) Parking Light output to the desired (-) signal the vehicle needs.  But you can do it another way, using the two AK104 (+) Parking Light wires with this info :     Parking Lights (+)      GREEN/ Black + (Left), BROWN / Black + (Right)     @ dash fuse box, Black 39 pin plug (A), pins 25 and 7 The easiest way would most likely be to connect the dual positive parking light wires as it would save a possible failure point (the relay) and give you less items to have to tuck away in the dash. The 2 AK components will be tricky enough depending on the space you have available. 6.)Your AK104 system does not have a separate Factory Alarm Arm and Disarm output, only Lock and Unlock.  This will make it difficult to control these functions.  Disarm requires a Double Pulse that is possible with the proper setting of JP3 on the AK104 but will require diodes to split the Unlock output wire into three legs going to three wire locations on the white 24 pin plug shown.  Factory Alarm Arm is a whole different story.  It will require a SPDT relay and diodes, wired to open a vehicle wire and pulse another, as indicated below : Factory Alarm Arm       Yellow and Brown, (-) and open  @ dash fuse box, White 24 pin plug (D), pins 15 and 22      Also remember that a Disarm is required before a Trunk Release or the Factory Alarm will be triggered. This is 100% correct 7.)  While the AK104 only has one Door Trigger Input, you should monitor all four doors, the trunk and the hood.  To do this split the AK104's Door Trigger Input wire into 6 leads using the standard 1N400x diode ( band towards the AK104 ) and connect to the vehicles trigger wires ( leave JP1 set to - ). Again, this is 100% correct. Considering all the above, especially the vehicles manual transmission & Factory Alarm and needed relay circuits and diodes, I would suggest bringing this to a trained / certified installer. If you have never done a remote start I would HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY suggest taking this man's advice. As an experienced installer (well over a thousand remote starters), I had some minor trouble installing the AK104B (along with a Compustar Alarm / Remote start system) on my own vehicle. It took me just shy of 5 hours to get everything finished... and then it still needed some tweeking.

Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Out of curiosity, where are you located?Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Sorry about my lack of information. I actually created the account to respond to this specific post because it contained so much helpful information regarding installs of this nature. I live in Des Moines, IA. I do not have any experience exactly like remote starters, but I have done stereo and security system installs. I am a mechanical engineer by profession so I have a decent understanding of systems and if not have a desire to learn, but that being said I don't have any specific knowledge of these installs exactly. I'd prefer to do the install myself to avoid the $400 install fee and am determined to figure out what it will take if at all possible. I also have very little faith with most of the installers around here. I took my car (probably over 8 years ago) to a Best Buy to have them install my first car alarm--I'll never go back there again. I figure that my time researching how to do it is better than spending money for them to do it wrong. I do appreciate your input though and feel like I have 95% of it figured out. I just want to make sure I get the last 5% correct... So regarding my questions: 1.) I emailed the manufacturer and they said "yes" just use the one wire that the car has and to leave the other one blank. I'm not sure if they just didn't want to deal with my question and gave me a quick answer or if it really is only necessary to use one wire. Why does the car have two accessory wires? Would you mind quickly explaining how this system is meant to work? I understand that accessory wires are meant to only provide power when the is in the ACC or ON position, but I don't get why there would be two. "It's as simple as just cutting the wires and tying your new connections into the wire that goes towards the vehicle (not the switch side)." I'm unclear why I have to interrupt both accessory wires. Why can't I just pick one and use that to power the system? Also, what new connections are you talking about? Sorry but you guys kind of lost me here so could you try to explain this one again? 2.) Yes, I have a US Sonata so this will just be unconnected. 3.) The GWR wire is a (-) so are you saying connect the "Keysense white (-) to BCM" to this wire? Offroadzj says that there are two wires but upon a quick glance I only see that (-) wire that I just mentioned. 4.) I understand the importance of making sure this is connected to a neutral signal. It was mentioned that the car would "take off" if it was left in gear and remote started. In regard to Offroadzj's comments, wouldn't this neutral signal ensure that the horror story so to speak wouldn't happen though? I figured that essentially the system would only remote start if it was receiving a signal that the car was in neutral. Along with that there was a mention of how the clutch needs to be pushed in to start the car. Would this be bypassed by a remote start so that in theory if it received a signal that the car was in neutral, it would start without the clutch being depressed? 5.) That makes sense 6.) I'm a little bit confused--there is a mention of diodes again. Is this only required for unlocking and disarming with one button push? For instance, if I wanted to unlock the alarm with a button push and then unlock the door with another push would this still require diodes? I got a bit confused with this explanation--could you please clarify a bit more on this one? I have little knowledge of selecting/wiring relays and don't know which 3 wires you're talking about. What is a "DBL pulse" anyway? Sorry, but this one is what I feel least confident about and am hoping you can clarify the most on. 7.) Being that my background is with mechanical systems I just want to clarify. From what I understand diodes essentially make current flow in only one direction. So would you accomplish the suggested system by putting the diode into the circuit as follows: 6 inputs -> diode -> Door switch input on aftermarket system Essentially you're splicing 6 wires to the diode and then to the system input? Also, which diode would you recommend for the "x"? I really appreciate all your help and just want to consider everything before hand so that I can decide if I really need to have a pro do the install. Like I said, I'm handy and think I can figure it out with some help--I'd really like to get the knowledge and learning experience too. Thanks again guys.

See comments in bold.

mjperk wrote: Sorry about my lack of information. I actually created the account to respond to this specific post because it contained so much helpful information regarding installs of this nature. I live in Des Moines, IA. I was hoping you were a little closer to the Tri-state area. As far as I know, I am the only their only retailer in the Northeast... but that doesn't help you out much where you are... lol I do not have any experience exactly like remote starters, but I have done stereo and security system installs. I am a mechanical engineer by profession so I have a decent understanding of systems and if not have a desire to learn, but that being said I don't have any specific knowledge of these installs exactly. I'd prefer to do the install myself to avoid the $400 install fee and am determined to figure out what it will take if at all possible. I also have very little faith with most of the installers around here. I took my car (probably over 8 years ago) to a Best Buy to have them install my first car alarm--I'll never go back there again. I figure that my time researching how to do it is better than spending money for them to do it wrong. I do appreciate your input though and feel like I have 95% of it figured out. I just want to make sure I get the last 5% correct... So regarding my questions: As long as you take your time (plan for at least 4-5 hours so you don't have to rush), test EVERYTHING, and make the proper connections, you should have no issues. 1.) I emailed the manufacturer and they said "yes" just use the one wire that the car has and to leave the other one blank. I'm not sure if they just didn't want to deal with my question and gave me a quick answer or if it really is only necessary to use one wire. Why does the car have two accessory wires? Would you mind quickly explaining how this system is meant to work? I understand that accessory wires are meant to only provide power when the is in the ACC or ON position, but I don't get why there would be two. "It's as simple as just cutting the wires and tying your new connections into the wire that goes towards the vehicle (not the switch side)." I'm unclear why I have to interrupt both accessory wires. Why can't I just pick one and use that to power the system? Also, what new connections are you talking about? Sorry but you guys kind of lost me here so could you try to explain this one again? The vehicle uses 2 separate ACC wires to power the components. Some of the components will run off the one accessory (ie heater, etc) and some will run off the 2nd accessory wire (radio, etc). Therefore both HAVE to be connected. There is no way around it. They also both HAVE to be interrupted otherwise when you turn the cut key to ACC for the steering column unlock, you will be powering a circuit at all times and your battery will go dead. Unfortunately there is no way around using the relay to power the 2nd ACC wire. I am not sure why they told you that you didn't... 2.) Yes, I have a US Sonata so this will just be unconnected. Correct. That will make things a little easier. 3.) The GWR wire is a (-) so are you saying connect the "Keysense white (-) to BCM" to this wire? Offroadzj says that there are two wires but upon a quick glance I only see that (-) wire that I just mentioned. I didn't have the vehicle wiring in front of me. If the Keysense wire in the vehicle is (-) then that is the one you will use off the AK. Had it been a (+) keysense, then you would have had to use the other wire (bypass wire). To make the connection, cut the keysense wire in the vehicle and connect the AK to the BCM side (not the key side). If you cannot tell which is the key side vs the BCM side, after cutting it insert a key and use the meter to determine which side of the wiring shows a (-) signal. Once you found that, tape that one off and use the non (-) side to connect the AK wire to. 4.) I understand the importance of making sure this is connected to a neutral signal. It was mentioned that the car would "take off" if it was left in gear and remote started. In regard to Offroadzj's comments, wouldn't this neutral signal ensure that the horror story so to speak wouldn't happen though? I figured that essentially the system would only remote start if it was receiving a signal that the car was in neutral. Along with that there was a mention of how the clutch needs to be pushed in to start the car. Would this be bypassed by a remote start so that in theory if it received a signal that the car was in neutral, it would start without the clutch being depressed? The reason I said you will need to disable the remote start is because as far as I know, there is no neutral safety switch wire in the vehicle that determines if the vehicle is in gear or not. Without this wire, there is no other way to connect the neutral safety wire of the AK and no safe way to be able to use the remote start feature. However, if you happen to find a neutral safety switch wire in the vehicle then you will be able to use that wire and therefore be able to keep the remote start function enabled... but I really don't think you will. If you do find one, you will need to bypass the clutch switch, but we can go over that if you find the neutral safety switch wire. If it is like I think, and there is no neutral safety switch, you will have to disable the remote start feature. 5.) That makes sense Sounds good. 6.) I'm a little bit confused--there is a mention of diodes again. Is this only required for unlocking and disarming with one button push? For instance, if I wanted to unlock the alarm with a button push and then unlock the door with another push would this still require diodes? I got a bit confused with this explanation--could you please clarify a bit more on this one? I have little knowledge of selecting/wiring relays and don't know which 3 wires you're talking about. What is a "DBL pulse" anyway? Sorry, but this one is what I feel least confident about and am hoping you can clarify the most on. The vehicle has a separate wire for unlock and another wire for disarm. In addition, there is a 3rd 'lock sense' wire that needs to be interrupted or grounded for arming / disarming the alarm. Before going too far into this, you will want to test to see if the vehicle even has a factory alarm. Close the door with the window open and press the lock button on the factory remote at least twice. Then wait at least 1 minute and then unlock and open the door from the inside handle. If the horn sounds then you have a factory alarm and you will HAVE to wire it up through a series of diodes and relays.... it's not an easy setup to do and can be a royal PITA even for an experienced installer. 7.) Being that my background is with mechanical systems I just want to clarify. From what I understand diodes essentially make current flow in only one direction. So would you accomplish the suggested system by putting the diode into the circuit as follows: 6 inputs -> diode -> Door switch input on aftermarket system Essentially yes, the diode is nothing more than an electrical one way 'valve'. However, depending on the signal (+) vs (-), depends on which way the band of the diode faces. With the door pin wires (all (-) signals), you will want all of the bands facing towards the AK unit. So it will be: AK Input --> 6 diodes (band towards AK unit) --> one diode to each door / trunk input. Essentially you're splicing 6 wires to the diode and then to the system input? Also, which diode would you recommend for the "x"? Not quite. You are actually splicing 1 diode to each vehicle input (doors, trunk, etc) then splicing the 6 diodes together into the AK input. As far as the diodes go, the 1N4001 or 1N4004 should be fine. I really appreciate all your help and just want to consider everything before hand so that I can decide if I really need to have a pro do the install. Like I said, I'm handy and think I can figure it out with some help--I'd really like to get the knowledge and learning experience too. Thanks again guys. It is 100% do-able, but it is not one of the easier ones. Definitely plan for many hours and a few headaches along the way. Test EVERYTHING and verify everything again before making your connections. We are here (as much as possible) when you have questions.

To help make things a little easier, do the test I listed above regarding the factory alarm. That will tell us if we need to bother with the diodes / relays or not for the lock / unlock wiring.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205