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2011 Hyundai Sonata Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial


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sceva2 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2014
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 07, 2014 at 4:12 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the advice. I like the features the 4806 comes with, the price is right, and if I get stuck there are a couple of dealers in my area I could take it to.
Someone else mentioned the 5902 guide to use. I will take a look at both and get the 4806 ordered.
sceva2 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2014
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 10, 2014 at 3:37 PM / IP Logged  
My remote starter is arriving in a few days and I am preparing for it and have ran across a couple of head scratchers:
In this photo:
2011 Hyundai Sonata Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial - Page 3 -- posted image.
what is the difference between the "Door Triggers - Trunk" green wire and the "Trunk (-)" white wire a bit lower?
And is there a general significance in the (+) and (-) values? For example my remote harness has a - Door input and a + Door input. What should I be looking for?
Thanks.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,789
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 10, 2014 at 6:33 PM / IP Logged  

The White wire marked Trunk (-) will pop the trunk lid open.  The Green Trunk Trigger wire will indicate whether or not the

trunk lid in open for alarm / security purposes ( same use as the Door Trigger wires ).

The Sonata trigger wires shown in the photo and standard (-) trigger wires, they will show a ground when the door is

open and an "open" signal when the door is closed.  Some vehicles provide a (+) signal.  Your after-market system has
inputs for either type to allow the installer some flexibility.  You will use only the (-) Door Status and (-) Trunk Status inputs
on your alarm system.  You must also diode isolate these vehicle wires to prevent feedback when you combine them into one
input to the alarm.

The (+) and (-) indicated on any wires used for a R/S or alarm system is very significant.   If you do not make your connections

properly ( connect a (+) Parking Light output to a (-) Parking Light vehicle wire ) at the very least you will blow a fuse.  Other
bad things can happen, like killing the R/S brain, bricking the vehicles' BCM, ECM or other very expensive computer.  That
is why we always caution about using a DMM to locate and verify each wire prior to making any connections.

Soldering is fun!
sceva2 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2014
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 10, 2014 at 7:58 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks Kreg357 for the info, and for all your other posts around the site. It takes me several reads before I can see the big picture thru all the details and I am beginning to breathe easier and have some confidence I can get this installed and working properly.
I ordered some spdt relays and 1N4007 diodes. Already have all the soldering tools, wire cutters, multimeter, misc. tools,... am I missing anything? I would like to have everything ready before I begin the install.
A few other items I have not found the answer to:
  • Should I connect the tach wire or use the virtual tach for this car?
  • Is the Light Flash Isolation wire required?If so, is this the parking lights?
  • Do I need the Ground When Armed Output? Is this the same as Dome Light Supervision?
  • I don't think I need the Flex Relay Input?
  • Any ideas for Aux 3 and 4 uses?
Thanks.
sceva2 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2014
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 10, 2014 at 8:28 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Sorry, but I just noticed something, better late than never, Essentially yes, the diode is nothing more than an electrical one way 'valve'. However, depending on the signal (+) vs (-), depends on which way the band of the diode faces. With the door pin wires (all (-) signals), you will want all of the bands facing towards the AK unit. So it will be: AK Input --> 6 diodes (band towards AK unit) --> one diode to each door / trunk input.
Shouldn't the diode bands be towards the switches and AWAY from the unit.
Is Howie correct about this? It seems to agree with the 'Isolating Negative Door Triggers' diagram on the site's diode example.
2011 Hyundai Sonata Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial - Page 3 -- posted image.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,789
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 10, 2014 at 9:06 PM / IP Logged  

If your Misc tools has tie wraps, Scotch Super 33+ electric tape, heat shrink tubing in various diameters, razor blade knife

and a bic lighter, you should be all set.

Should I connect the tach wire or use the virtual tach for this car?   

I prefer going with an actual Tach connection.  Once the R/S system is installed and learns the Tach signal at idle, it
will use that to insure the R/S cranks the engine long enough ( but not too long ) to start the engine at any temp.

Is the Light Flash Isolation wire required?If so, is this the parking lights?

It is for the Parking Light circuit but is not required for your application.  Just set the internal jumper/fuse to (-) and
connect the White wire to the wire shown in the pictorial ( after testing, of course ).

Do I need the Ground When Armed Output? Is this the same as Dome Light Supervision?

You will not need the GWA wire for your install.  It is not the same as Dome Light Supervision.  You won't need Dome
Light Supervision either.

I don't think I need the Flex Relay Input?

No, you won't need the Flex Relay Input.  You will be using the Flex Relay Output ( Pink/White ) for the ACC2 wire.  You must
also program the R/S to ACC2 as it comes with IGN2 as the default setting.

Any ideas for Aux 3 and 4 uses?       Not off the top of my head.  You will be using the 2nd Status Output ( set to pulse Defrost )

for the rear defroster.  

Just realized that you are using a Viper 4806V.  This is only a remote start with keyless entry.  It has no alarm functionality.

Unless your Sonata has a manual transmission, you do not need to connect the door and trunk trigger wires as inputs.
However, you are correct with the application and use of the diodes ( Howard is never wrong, only mis-understood due
to his British accent  2011 Hyundai Sonata Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial - Page 3 -- posted image.    ).  If you were combining the 4 (-) door trigger wires shown in the pictorial into one input for the
Viper, you would use 4 diodes and the bands would be toward the car ( away from the Viper ) as your diagram shows.
There was some confusion in the earlier posts with diodes because some were used for the Disarm output wiring and some
were used for door trigger input wiring.  This chart is handy to determine which way the band should face depending on
the expected signal and direction  :  https://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp

Soldering is fun!
sceva2 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2014
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 12, 2014 at 2:26 PM / IP Logged  
The 4806v, relays, and diodes are here! After watching a few more videos, reading the docs, making notes, I am almost ready, but have a few items still need some assistance with...
Details: Sonata 2011, standard start, factory alarm, no transponder, automatic transmission, installing Viper 4806V. Wanting to have remote start with 2-way, door lock/unlock, trunk release - essentially replacing the factory fob with the Viper.
Someone recommended using the 5701 install guide. There are 2 located in the downloads. Does it matter which one?
Here are the wiring details. I have a good handle on locating the proper wires, but could use some help with where to use relays or diodes. The main concerns I have are surrounded with '? ?':
A: Main Ignition 6 pin; B:Fuse panel 24 pin white; C: Driver Kick Panel, upper; D: BCM – under dash, above gas;
Main Harness , 6-pin connector
H/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT --> A:Green
H/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND --> Car frame
H/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT --> C:White #42 ?Relay required?
H/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay --> N/A
H/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY --> D: Pink – parking lights; set jumper (-); ?Relay required?
H/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT --> N/A
Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE 500mA (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT --> B:Yellow at bottom (?can I use the directions in Door lock Tech Tip 1300 in downloads/manuals? And program the Viper to send double pulse on unlock? If so, what is the Dome Light Supervision wire on the Viper?)
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN 500mA (-) LOCK OUTPUT --> B: White at bottom
Remote Start, 8-pin connector
1 RED / BLACK (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ACC and starter relays --> A: Green
2 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY --> N/A
3 PINK/WHITE (+) ACC# 2 --> A:Blue; change program to ACC #2
4 RED (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 1 relay --> A:Brown
5 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT --> A: Yellow (?Viper 5701 directions call for a Starter Input and a Starter Output, splitting the factory wire instead of splicing it – has this changed?)
6 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT --> A: Orange
7 RED / WHITE (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ACC # 2 --> A:Brown
8 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT --> A: Pink (I find it odd this is the only one labeled INPUT/OUTPUT?)
Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness 24-pin connector
1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT --> N/A
2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT --> D: Brown; program to pulse; ?diode? mark toward 4806V;
3 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT --> B: White; ?relay required?
4 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT --> D: White pin 4? (this is not important to me, but would it need a relay?)
5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT -->
6 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT -->
7 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT -->
8 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT -->
9 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) --> Fuse panel middle cluster Green; diode – mark away from 4806V;
10 BLUE* FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) --> (-); set jumper; diode – mark away from 4806v; (will this allow the remote to alert me if the car alarm is activated?)
11 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT -->
12 VIOLET/WHITE** TACHOMETER INPUT --> Spark plug coil; any diode needed?
13 BLACK/ WHITE*** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT --> Chassis ground
14 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT --> B: Orange and Brown wires, program for 2 pulses, will also unlock doors; (I am thinking I don’t have to worry about this if I wire the door lock/unlock properly?)
15 GREEN** (-) DOOR INPUT -->
16 EMPTY ------------------------------------
17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT -->
18 VIOLET** (+) DOOR INPUT -->
19 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT -->
20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT --> C: Green (see pic); ?diode? mark toward 4806V;
21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT --> ? Is this necessary?
22 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT --> N/A
23 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT -->
24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT --> not sure if needed? Diode? Mark toward 4806V;
Is the keysense wire needed for this install?
After looking at all the connections it looks like all of them are splices (with the possible exception of the lock/unlock) does this seem correct?
Hope this isn't too much to ask - I am amazed by the folks who give so much of their time helping others out. Thanks so much!!
sceva2 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2014
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 13, 2014 at 7:07 PM / IP Logged  
90% finished! Remote starter works, locks/arm/disarm works, trunk opens!!!
I had hoped to finish, but: I ran out of time; My back wanted a rest (8 hours in the floorboard); and I was not comfortable on the wiring on a few items still.
sceva2 wrote:
A: Main Ignition 6 pin; B:Fuse panel 24 pin white; C: Driver Kick Panel, upper; D: BCM – under dash, above gas;
Main Harness , 6-pin connector
H/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT --> C:White #42 ?Relay required?
H/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY --> D: Pink – parking lights; set jumper (-); ?Relay required?
Do the horn and parking lights need relays or diodes?
sceva2 wrote:
Door Lock, 3-pin connector
I followed the directions in Door Lock Tech Tip 1300, page 1; programmed the remote to send a double pulse; (took a few tries to figure out the sequence for programming with the Control Center) and it works perfectly.
sceva2 wrote:
Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness 24-pin connector
2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT --> D: Brown; program to pulse; ?diode? mark toward 4806V;
10 BLUE* FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) --> (-); set jumper; diode – mark away from 4806v; (will this allow the remote to alert me if the car alarm is activated?)
Do either of these need diodes or relays?
Merry Christmas!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,789
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 13, 2014 at 8:59 PM / IP Logged  

Do the horn and parking lights need relays or diodes?

No relays or diodes needed.  Direct connection.

Rear Defog :  No relay or diode needed.  Direct connection.

Not a Viper person, but a direct connection on the H2/10 Blue Horn Input is OK after setting it to (-).

Soldering is fun!
bigcyphe 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: April 17, 2012
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 15, 2014 at 1:23 AM / IP Logged  
Dude you do some of the absolute best and most thorough write ups. Unbelievable. Even though I haven't used one yet I'm sure I will one day. They are better then directechs which I use daily!
You learn something new everyday. Whether or not you fail to file it as useful is up to you.
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