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2011 Toyota Tundra Remote Start Bypass


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jsolts 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2011
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: December 08, 2012 at 1:11 PM / IP Logged  
That's what I thought. He had the a viper with smartstart installed.
So I'm 95 percent sure it could handle to door locks.
I know I've seen vehicles that factoy the fobs won't work once the vehicle is running, but never lock that won't work.
benjf3 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2011
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 08, 2012 at 5:27 PM / IP Logged  
Sounds like he got ripped off. Even if the bypass didn't control the locks, they could hardwire the lock output directly to the negative trigger. Most new vehicles have a feature where you can't lock the doors when open, while running. However, if you trigger the door lock wire directly, it simulates pushing the lock switch. I'll be getting this vehicle Friday to install and can comment further after I''m done with it. The proper bypass module (I'm using the FL-CAN) should knock down install time because I believe it controls most everything I would other wise need to tap like tach, locks, brake stat, hood stat, factory arm/disarm etc.). I may only have to wire the horn and possible the door lock (I install my units so the lock before start because they have a pulse before start output). The standard 12V outputs will apply to the ignition switch and as per my earlier question, I always use an Anti-Grind. I'm doing the total install for $350 (with all the features). May even throw in defroster output if his truck has the rear window or mirror defrosters. 
benjf3 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2011
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 09, 2012 at 8:12 PM / IP Logged  
Just wanted to ask the other installers where they are connecting their 12 V inputs to the Remote Start Module? I see there is a high current wire listed that feeds the fuse box directly, but there are also two 7.5A 12V wires right at the Ignition Harness. The Code Alarm (and most Start Units) have two 12V inputs on the high current plug.  I personally like to use wires coming off the battery. My only concern is overcurrent at the ignition. So, which wires do you guys tap?
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: December 10, 2012 at 9:30 AM / IP Logged  
Use the 4 guage 1 pin wire going into the BCM/fuse box for your 12 volt input.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
benjf3 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2011
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 18, 2012 at 5:16 PM / IP Logged  
Just want to thank all for the input and advice. The install went smoothly and the bypass integrated everything PERFECTLY! Customer is super happy with his new features. Only wish the bypass interface could automatically activate the mirror defroster at a given temp. That would have been the cat's ass! Really pleased with the idatalink/Flashlogic modules. Next up is my daughters 2007 Malibu!
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