03 silverado diesel/avital 4103/dball

May be stupid question, but with the system set to tach sensing, did you actually learn the tach signal (iirc it's start the car, press & release programming button then press and hold until the lights flash)Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I have learned the tach signal. Twice actually and the led stays constant like it supposed to when the tach is learned. I ran the shutdown diagnostics on the remote start and I got error 3 which is low or no rpm, low battery(for voltage and virtual tach modes). I ran these diagnostics immediately after I attempted a remote start, and the truck fired then died immediately(it then tried two more times and also died immediately). After I ran the shutdown diagnostics, I changed the engine checking menu option to "off". I then attempted to remote start. Truck fired and died immediately. The ignition then stayed on like the truck was running, even though it was not. It did not try restarting. I'm thinking I'm going to start the truck with the key, then check the tach signal wire voltage at the remote start pin. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? Positive or negative? Any tips on this issue? Thanks!

One other thing I should mention...I tested the valet mode. I started the truck with the key. Then when it was running, I pressed the remote start button, and remove the key. The truck stayed running! This tells me the immobilized is working correctly! So that's great news, but confuses me as to what the issue is!

Have you tried to change the Tach Threshold pin?  Page 26 of the install manual. When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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I was just about to post the same thing...except my module doesn't have that! It's listed in my manual, but its not on my module. I must have an older one! I'll be in contact with the seller to get a replacement module. FYI I did measure the voltage of the tach wire where it connects to the remote start. 5.75v. The lack of jumper has got to be the problem... There has to be a workaround you'd think...it's not like this is a new thing.

Are you still using the DB-ALLs' Tach Output?  If yes, you might try connecting the Avital directly to the trucks' White Tach wire at the instrument panel instead.  Then do another Tach Learn and see what happens.

Did the DB-ALL program properly?  Do the power locks work OK thru the Avital?

Soldering is fun!

Tach wire is going straight to the avital. With the truck running, the tach wire is sending 5.75v to the avital, measured at the avital. The lock/unlock works great. Also valet mode works (pushing the start button while the truck is running, then removing the key). So I think the db-all is working properly.

Still a little confused.  The Avital uses the Tach signal as an input.  It can get this signal from several places.  Is the Tach signal's source the DB-ALL ( Tach Output ) or the truck itself ( White wire at instrument cluster )?  While it is not a perfect test, a normal Tach wire signal can be checked with a DMM set to 20V AC.  It should read between 1 and 6 volts and rise slightly with RPM's.

Being able to go into PitStop Mode on a vehicle with Passlock2 can be deceiving.   For immobilization purposes, the resistor value is only checked during cranking ( key in Start position ).   I believe Passlock2 disables the fuel delivery system but on some vehicles still allows cranking.  The engine will crank, even start, stumble and die.    PitStop mode will verify the rest of the ignition wires.

Soldering is fun!

I'm using the white wire in the instrument cluster directly to the avital.

One other thing... I am not connecting the d2d harness at all since I'm using w2w. Is that correct? So frustrating...it crank, fires, then something is killing it before it even achieves idle!