double checking relays

Reversed the motor wires?

nope, i went through every possible wiring combination making sure i didnt cross something up. i used a 451m so the relays shouldnt have been crossed. i tried switching them around but that only made the alarm and factory switch work backwards. if you switch the wires around from key side to motor side then it would blow the fuse, if i put it back to factory then the switch went back to normal. none of that made any sense to me or anyone i worked with at the time. but i somehow convinced the customer to take it with the switch being reversed.

lol, So I just got off work and decided that I was going to work on this thing regardless of how dark and cold (lol Florida) it is out side. Also figured it was more positive than whats currently plaguing the news today :/ So I haven't ordered the diodes just yet and I suppose I should get a clarification on just which ones (quenching right?) I need and how many. I need one before and after the relays coming from the viper and going to the door locks? If that is the case and I can't start working on the locks tonight then maybe ill work on the oh so fun remote start. I bought some T-taps to temporarily use to connect everything to test if its all going to work where I put it, and then after its all confirmed wired right ill go ahead and do all the splicing and soldering like I've been doing the past few weekends. Can I upload pictures here? I feel like you guys would get a kick out of what the truck currently looks like (completely gutted and wires going every which way).

I do have myself 10 fresh relays so I can wire up anything that doesn't need a diode.

Here is a link to a very detailed write up on relays  :  http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

In it there is a section on coil quenching diodes.  It shows the correct polarity placementof the diode on the coil.  Remember that convention holds that relay Pin 85 is (-) and Pin 86is (+).  Try to follow this even though the diagram from The12Volt of the 5 Wire locks shows one relay wired incorrectly, with Pin 85 as (+) and Pin 86 as (-).  (This was probably done to simplify the diagram and will work fine as long as you don't have relays with the diode built in.)

You can do the wiring now and add the diodes later.  You could leave the connections to the

R/S lock outputs off until you get the diodes installed. To test, you can just briefly apply ground to Pin 85 of which ever relay ( lock or unlock ) you wanted to test.

Soldering is fun!

Ok, Ill be sure to give that a good read over tonight once im done outside. I decided to just start on the door locks tomorrow after reading up on it some more so I can try and get a better understanding of it before hacking into the harness. So I just went around and started marking and testing where all the connections are going to go into that I need to use on this truck. I used this wiring table here https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/472.html which seemed to be right but I got a little more specific findings using my voltmeter and a fused jumper wire. Dome light trigger (+) Brown wire located at the harness for the dimmer switch next to the park/run light switches. Parking/Running light trigger (+) Brown wire located at the parking/running light switch harness. Headlights (+) yellow wire located at the park/run light switch harness. brake activate trigger (+) White wire located at brake switch. Door triggers at the switches at each door are (+) trigger at the white wire. So with all that, I have: Neutral safety input - hook to vehicle ground (auto trans) (-) 200ma dome light supervision output - Not sure since the dome lights are positive trigger. horn Honk output (-) - black (-) trigger at ignition harness (+) door trigger input - white wire (+) at either trigger switch. Hood pin input (-) - I guess hooks up to the included trigger that I will install later. tach input - I know there is the wire located at the coil but surely there must be a wire under the dash here that I can use? Brake shutdown input (+) - White wire at brake switch (+) Thats what I got for the 24 wire harness. Is there any that is missing? I am not too sure about the 200ma starter output, (-) remote start/turbo timer activation input, (-) 200ma status output (is this the "im armed" blinking dash led?), (-) 200ma ignition 1 output, and the ignition/flex relay control output. I will probably wait till tomorrow to start hooking all of this up, that way I can hopefully get some input on what ive tested so far and maybe I can get those diodes at the local radio shack.

I've never seen one of those vehicles but door triggers WON'T be positive. Tach should be a white at rear of inst cluster. If you exit the vehicle and don't lock the doors does the dome light stay on for up to 1 minute? If so you won't need dome supervision. Throw away your DMM and get a Snap-On or similar bulb tester, it's much quicker and you aren't using your meter correctly. On from that comment t-taps? Why are you wasting money on bad joints with that rubbish where any pro will bare and simply wrap around, then solder and insulate. In fact most pros on a strange vehicle will work the following procedure:- Pre-wire what you know. Position alarm-R/S ECU. Find wanted wires. Test and verify. Solder and insulate. You are over thinking and it will screw up the result. Mind you I'll be the first to admit that it takes the fun away. And yes I've been sunburned by the lousy December weather in Florida.

I had every intention on soldering all the connections once I had tested them with the T-taps. I tested the door trigger again using the volt meter and the white wire is 12v constant while the black wire sits at rest until the circuit is completed at one of the doors and then completes the circuit. There are only two wires running to each door trigger (WHITE/ black) and the white shows 12v when I put the red probe on it and the black on a bare part of the cab for ground. If im testing it wrong how so? I don't want to teach myself an incorrect method then have to go back and re-teach myself. There is no dome supervision built into this truck. It is pretty basic and the lights go off the second the door is closed. I don't mean to over think all of this, I just like to make sure I covered everything that way I can't say I didn't do my research or ask someone more experienced.

All vehicles back then apart from Rolls-Royce, some 5 and 7 Series BMW trunk triggers were ALL NEG. (-). Meter to 20VDC. Red probe to a verified 12V+ constant. Black probe to suspect wire. Reading 0v. Open door should get a reading of c.12v+. NEG (-) join to green at H2/6. If POS (+) 12v+ on door closed, 0v on opening. POS (+) join to violet at H2/12. Don't waste your money on t-taps, half the time they won't work. Dome Supervision if required. If NEG (-), BLACK / YELLOW at H2/7 to relay 85. Constant 12v+ to 86, fused 2 amps. Good ground to 87. 30 to green at H2/6. If POS (+), BLACK / YELLOW at H2/7 to relay 85. Constant 12v+ fused 5 amps to 86 and 87. 30 to violet at H2/12. In either case 1N4004 across relay coil, band to 86. Mandatory.

Ok guys thank you so much for your time and help. I went slow, hooked up everything according to the advice that you gave me and everything worked first time. Door locks are working perfectly. Remote start works like a charm (once I got the manual trans mode set to auto). I got the dome lights hooked up to the viper which is really nice. The only two relays that I think I have left is the one for the horn (I want it to honk with the siren) and possibly one for headlights. Now I didn't see this option on one of the vipers many wires but im sure its got to be doable somehow. Basically, I was looking into having it so when the lock/unlock is triggered on the viper that it keeps the headlights on for 30 or so seconds. I have an HHR that does this and it really makes it easier to get to the vehicle at night. Can anyone steer me in the right direction with this? Also, I blew the 10 amp fuse in the viper for the parking lights. I put a 15 in there and haven't had any issues yet. I was wondering if I needed a diode in line of the power wire that is spliced into the parking light harness. I didn't know if the power was backfeeding once I flipped on the parking light switch itself.