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different t splicing method


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bikemaniac 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: August 09, 2012
Location: Denmark
Posted: December 30, 2012 at 5:18 PM / IP Logged  
I don't know if this is old information, but I came up with this method of making t splices using a non-insulated crimp connector.
https://picasaweb.google.com/112669300518977811960/TSplice?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOi2_8uLy8_M7QE&feat=directlink
Basically you cut off the spade and use the special crimping tool. In my car I have already seen many of those crimped connectors, however used with the spade :-). So it should be a reliable type of connection. What do you think?
Lucas
bikemaniac 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: August 09, 2012
Location: Denmark
Posted: December 30, 2012 at 5:20 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry, the link is:
Link to Picasa
Lucas
fastback4 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: January 22, 2013
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: January 22, 2013 at 7:31 PM / IP Logged  

Cool splice

oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: January 22, 2013 at 9:19 PM / IP Logged  
Very good. And quite solderable too.
Thanks!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 23, 2013 at 4:38 PM / IP Logged  
Bloody waste of time, sorry but 1" (25.4mm) of shrink plus solder will do a better job for less money and time.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: January 23, 2013 at 5:03 PM / IP Logged  
Hmmm - I don't disagree...
And I'll usually do just that - twist the wires (for physical strength) and solder, then insulate - these days with heatshrink!
Sometimes I don't solder for various reasons - eg the classic intended "temporary install" or emergency fix. (And not that I recommend a twist-only join, but my temps and emergencies are still working fine even after a decade. Of course, being a professional I know how to twist with quality different t splicing method -- posted image. )
But IMO that splice "trick" is handy because it may be a better splice than mere twisting in emergency etc situations where soldering is impractical.
And it looks more professional than a twist - even if it is soldered.
Also I note that my vehicles have the same type of splice joins as OEM wiring - and no solder.
Admittedly the OEM crimp U or ring may be stiffer than the type shown, but I have never had one of those OEM splices fail.
And yes, my daily (and only!) drive for the past 13 years has been a 1965 ute, and it's been as bogged and abused as my 1964 competitive rally car.
In fact the only problems I have had with the OEM wiring is connector corrosion (after say 20 years) and heat-hardening etc of terminal ends and insulation leading to eventual vibration breakage.
However my vehicles predate modern low-current (hi impedance) circuits like sensors & ECUs etc, though I have added my own such circuits.   Nevertheless, it amazes me how well the mere physical electrical joints (crimps) have held!
But I agree with Howard - a soldered join should be better and will be better if twisted (ie, physically stronger, especially if "soft" crimps are used), and is probably simpler and quicker.
And for low-signal stuff like alarms, audio inputs or ECU sensors etc, to not solder is usually asking for trouble.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 24, 2013 at 3:00 AM / IP Logged  
One more point. A good solder joint LOWERS the contact resistance at the joint.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: January 24, 2013 at 5:28 AM / IP Logged  
Only if there is no solder between the copper to copper contact - ie, surrounding solder prevents oxidisation of that contact - and where whetted, the cu-solder-cu resistance remains less than an oxidised cu-cu contact.
That's in cases where solder has worse conductivity than cu which is usually the case.
Of course any solder provides conduction between the otherwise non-conducting inter-circle cu gaps.
But a high-contact area (crushed) high pressure solderless crimp verses more circular soldered cu...?
Alas I occasionally tease with the "why better conductivity" (lower resistance) if solder has a higher resistance than the copper?
But I provided the main reason for that (ie, the non-contacting "raw" copper surfaces). But why should I provide such spoilers?
tommy... 
Gold - Posts: 1,901
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 29, 2013 at 4:24 PM / IP Logged  
Isn't this where you poke and wrap... WB Howie... Missed ya man...
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 29, 2013 at 5:45 PM / IP Logged  
Poke and wrap AND solder works for me, thank you Tommy.
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