turn signal to steady relay

Hey also your cap is connected wrong, it needs to be connected the same as the resistor. treat it like a battery.

FYI - the last diagram does not have diode, hence there is no delay or hold-up time (the cap discharges thru the other bulbs).

wpj74 wrote: Hey also your cap is connected wrong, it needs to be connected the same as the resistor. treat it like a battery.

Probably explains why it exploded lol. Thankfully I was wearing safety glasses. Never know when stuff might come flying at you. So after reviewing the link you gave me it kinda got me more confused on how he got it to work with no ground. So I drew up a new diagram. I tested it out and it works on my test bench. We will have to see once I wire it up to the car. Let me know what you guys think. As you can tell I'm a super rookie, but I feel good about this one.

Geez - I missed that the cap was connected wrong! Not that it should have blown up, but the relay would not have turned on (well, not for long if it did...). But if you are trying to combine flashers with other lights (whether park/clearance, stop or reverse), then that 3-relay circuit won't work. Such circuits MUST have a time function unless relays are used to connect the flasher can... IE, replace the can before the left/right switch with a link and have the switch turn on separate L & R relays that disconnect the "other" light (brake, parker, reverse) and connect the can to the bulbs - that requires a DPDT relay (or SPDT + SPST) per side (eg, like advrider - Making rear turn signals double as additional brake lights). But also have a look at the exledusa LED flasher devices tpc-v2 or tpc-v3 ($17 & $27 a pair respectively) - I reckon they can drive a relay if the lamp current is too high. I reckon that's the best and cheapest option (unless you make & program your own ~$10 PIC etc based circuit).