drl and strobe

Hi Everyone, This is my first post in this forum, so please excuse my lack of knowledge. I have been reading this forum for quite some time now for help with my ICE setup, HID setup etc etc. I have bought few 12V eagle eye (Rated power-3W) LED lamps from ebay and want to use them as DRL. These lamps have two wires (+ and -). I have also purchased a strobe module. Now, what I wish to do is connect 4 eagle eyes each side and wire them together so that it can turn on as and when ignition switch is turned on. What I want to know is what will be the best way to wire these lamps to get the maximum brightness out of these lamps. Should I wire them in series or in parallel? I also have a strobe module that I want to hook with these same LED lights so that they can also work as strobe lights when I switch on the Strobe module. So, basically what I want is wire these LED’s in such a way that they function as Daytime light most of the time and can convert them as Strobe lights as and when needed with the help of a toggle switch. I am not sure if I have made my question clear. Please feel free for any other clarification.        I know that this forum is home for many brilliant experts on wiring and a platform for nubee’s like me to learn with the help and guidance of experts. I am sure that I will definitely find a way to wire these lights. Devilonwheels New to forum

If they are 12V lamps, they cannot be in series. (They'll only get 6V and not be full brightness, and being LEDs they may not light at all.) [ FYI only - in parallel, all the parallel "circuits" see the same source voltage (...and each take their rated current hence total current is the sum of the individual currents). That's a paraphrasing of basic circuit theory. Its complement is that in series, the current through each lamp/component is equal, and their individual voltages add together to equal the source voltage. And Ohm's Law V=IR applies to both (or rather, results from both (lol?). I could go on, but this was just to help demystify series/parallel. ] As to strobe & DRL selection, the simplest would be an SPDT relay that is energised by the strobe power. IE - the switched +12V to the strobe module also connects to relay coil #86 with coil #85 to ground. I'd STRONGLY suggest a spike-quenching "reverse biased" diode across the relay coil to prevent strobe module damage - eg, a 1N4004 or 1N4007 diode with its band/line towards #86 and other end to #85 (eg - as shown here). Or you could buy a relay with inbuilt protection diode, but I prefer the DIY method so I can use plain unprotected relays.    The relay #30 goes to the eagle eyes +; #87 (normally closed aka NC) from the DRL +12V; and #87a (normally open aka NO; only "closed" when energised) to the Strobe Module output. Hence the DRL +12V normally connects thru to the eagle eyes. When the Strobe Module is switched on (+12V) it energises the relay and swaps the eagle eyes over to the strobe output (#87a). And thanks for your praise of the talent on this site. And BTW, one of those esteemed experts has or had a signature with "There is no such thing as a stupid question, just stupid answers". IMO - brilliant indeed! Your question was far from stupid. And you expressed your question and set -up well. Thanks! And well done for a first post - or any post for that matter. As to the stupidity of my answer, only you & others can judge (for now LOL). BTW - I usually include extra "educational" detail. Ignore that if too complex - it can be reviewed later (if at all LOL!). And my FYIs and {parenthisised) and especially [bracketed] text are usually such supplementary FYI, clarification or justification info.

I really thank you a lot oldspark from the base of my heart for taking out your precious time and helping me with this stuff. I am terribly sorry for posting so late, was stuck with something official. It was a wonderful welcoming message from you to boost up the confidence of newbees like me. I thank you again from explaining difference between parallel and series. I was really planning to wire them in series (Good lord and you saved my 20$). Another question I have is from what I understood from your post (Even though I am not sure if I really understood much..LOL). What I understand is:- 1.     I have to use a SPDT relay 2.     Relay coil #86 connects to the switched +12V to the strobe module input. 3.     Relay coil #85 connects to the ground. 4.     The relay #30 goes to the eagle eyes lamp +ve terminal, negative goes to ground. 5.     The relay #87a goes to the output of Strobe module, negative goes to ground(I am not sure.) I do have few doubts as well. 1.     Where will the switch be and the wiring of the switch. 2.     The relay #87 goes to the +ve of DRL as you explained but I don’t have DRL module. Can the +ve of the ignition be considered as the +ve of the DRL. What I want is whenever I switch ON the Ignition, my eagle eye lamps come on automatically as work as DRL and a switch that change the mode of the lamps from permanently lit (Daytime light) to Strobes through Strobe module. As I already said please ignore my dumbness as I don’t know much about wiring. I have made a Diagram of the same but don’t know if the MODS will allow me to post the same. Thanks and Regards, Abbey.New to forum

Oldspark, you sure are a spark man, Is there any way i may thank you like thanking you by clicking on any thank link or something like that. New to forum

Aw shucks, thanks! But I think you'll find I'm no different to others hereon, at least in attitude and sentiment though I do tend to ramble more because I include extra background info (theory, or preemptive warnings etc). They also probably express better and hence more concisely, and have detailed experience with alarms, immobilisers, specialised relays etc whereas I tend to be more general electrical, though batteries is one of my specialities. I think there is a "like" link or similar though to be honest I'm ignorant of such stuff. I'm not a pro like many others and - as I recently wrote in a thread relating to another Legendary member - I was unaware of ratings other than Junior Member for quite some time LOL! But trust me, your thanks is enough. And your extra comments just add to the buzz! (Oooo - that sounds egotistical... But look at this site - IMO it is there to educate and help.) Now, back to technical stuff, after all this site is not a social web-chat site! Your wiring is correct EXCEPT swap the 87 & 87a, and 87a will go to your IGN +12V. To explain: 30 is connected to 87a when the relay is de-energised or "off". 30 is connected to 87 when the relay is energised or "on". IE - 87a is the NC (Normally Closed) contact (see my FYI below). Hence normally the relay is off and IGN +12V passes thru 87a to 30 to the Eagle Eyes +12V. When the +12V Strobe switch turns on the Strobe Module it also turns on the relay (ie, the coil's 86). Hence the relay switches over so that the Strobe Module output to 87 connects to 30 - the Eagle Eyes (instead of IGN +12V). So simple in hindsight isn't it? Or is that only if you draw the relay as I usually do with its coil and contact switching? { To explain what I mean, as I recently wrote elsewhere, ... my "circuit diagram" approach where f.ex you see the relay contacts rather than the relay body - eg, see capacitor value for latching relay? (2nd last reply on page 1) and compare the upper the 12volt stye wiring pic with my lower circuit style pic - which is easier to understand behavior-wise? } I too should draw a diagram, and I probably will (ie, you wait; don't draw) but I also have some pressing business. (And I have yet to "draw" on my new PC.) I'll include the protection diode I mentioned which should IMO definitely be included unless you know that the relay spike will NOT damage the module. If I forget or take too long to post a diagram, kick me (a PM or Reply).    As to grounding, the Eagle Eyes and the Module with each have their own GND as does the relay (85). As long as a GND is never directly connected to +12V things should be fine. IE - all +12V connections should go to GND via a load, eg to the +12V inputs of the (grounded) eyes & module, and to 86 thru the coil to its 85 GND.    A GND is a GND whether a good nearby chassis connection for the eagle eyes, or a good (dash-) chassis connection for the switch or module, or to the battery -ve terminal, or any other good GND wire (ie, big enough to handle the required current, but that's a mere (say) 250mA for the relay, and probably only a few Amps for the module with LEDs). [Audio and other signal GNDs can be finicky so they might not be as straightforward. But this is mere switching and load stuff.] Generally - actually probably always - I used GND wires, though for some things like headlights etc I might also have a local chassis connection.     Your switch... Oh boy! If you only want the strobes on with IGN +12V, then it's easy. The strobe on-off switch takes its +12V from IGN +12V, probably the same (fused) circuit that is to power the LEDs as DRLs. If you want the strobes on anytime, then a fused +12V from the battery. You might also want ACC if wanting the strobe on whilst driving or with the key in the ACC position. Note that ACC +12V turns off during cranking whereas IGN +12V remains on during cranking. [Hence a optional test for you: What will the eagle eyes do when you crank the engine if the ACC powers the switch (and hence the module and LEDs) and IGN +12V powers the LEDs (as DRLs)? (If only you had my diagram, or scratched one yourself!)] FYI - by adding diodes you can also have IGN or ACC, ie, strobes can be on with ACC and IGN and (hence) during cranking. You might want to use an illuminated switch so that you know the strobe is on. That means a GND wire to the switch as well (to GND its LED or lamp - and NEVER accidentally connect that GND to the wrong switch terminal!!). And there are many switches to choose from depending on the module's current draw (do you have that specification? - eg, 1A, 2A, 5A etc?) though using an OEM rocker or other switch is likely to easily handle that and may be easy to fit in some unused switch position/blank in the dash. Though lengthy, I think that's covered it all except the fusing and where to tap the power from. But I'll leave that till you supply some current/load data and your powering method (strobe anytime, or IGN, or ACC). The current may be determined various ways, but see what you can find for now. FYI re N.O. and N.C. contacts: The way I remember "Normally" is that's the relay's normal state in its box on the shelf. IE - it is not energised etc. [ It gets confusing if a circuit "normally" has a relay in its energised or ON state, but that is not how we define the relay's 87a NC contact. So even if "normally" that relay is on and hence 30-87a is open, 87a is still the "Normally Closed" contact. Unless perhaps if that specific document or diagram or site defines otherwise... ]

Ok, devilonwheels was nice enough to PM me with his diagram. I made a few changes as well as adding some supplementary info like my equivalent SPDT relay "circuit" depiction, and diode symbols and bodys. I also included a pic of another thread's LED rocker switch just to show another possibility. And devilonwheels has decided for Strobes at any time (ie, not requiring IGN or ACC) which would have been my obvious choice. And devilonwheels included the protection diode across the relay (excellent!). I can't see any problems. But if anyone can...

Hi Peter(Oldsaprk), I have come up with 1 more problem. My strobe has 4 differ.ent output for 4 different EAGLE eye LED lamps.. 23 Different flash modes for 4 lamps. Now I don't know how to connect these outputs to relay. Please help me with this.You are my angel.New to forum

Exchange the strobe! Or since I presume you knew about the 23 different flash modes, you want a rage and disco strobe ability as opposed to simple warning strobes.    The answer then depends on how the LEDs are wired to the strobe outputs. EG do they all have a common ground, or is each LED (string/eye) connected between different strobe outputs? Or just use one output for all, or maybe combine outputs via didoes (especially if they are common ground) - again depending on the strobe operation and what inter-pulse gaps it has etc.