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troubleshooting alarm, remote start


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airwolf_durango 
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Posted: January 09, 2013 at 7:11 AM / IP Logged  

Thank you Smokeman.........I'll check those out.

airwolf_durango 
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Posted: January 09, 2013 at 8:26 AM / IP Logged  

smokeman1 wrote:
Viper 5301, Python 580, Clifford 1.3x  are the ones I use. I have bought several refurb ones from E-Bay and have had no issues. All are 2 way remote start system.  I sure other can give you their choices and opinion.  I know there are people out there that despise the DEI stuff.

Hi Smokeman1,

I check out your recommendations very quickly and noticed that people sell refurbished units of them. What are your feelings and expereince with those, if any?

Also what do you mean by DEI? The viper 5301 comes in a DEI version and a couple that don't say that. I'm not sure what that means and my google attempt came back and said it means "of god"....lol

Thanks

soundnsecurity 
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Posted: January 09, 2013 at 9:26 AM / IP Logged  
DEI is the company that makes Viper, Python, and Clifford among other brands. since they are made by the same company they all work and install the same way. the difference is how they look and some might have features or options that the others dont. DEI alarms are pretty installer friendly so its a good choice for someone who is new to alarms. i stopped installing DEI products when i left my last shop to open my own so i have limited hands on experience with their new stuff although i do have a viper 5901 remote start alarm in my own truck and i havent had any major issues with it other than the temperature sensor is stuck on 95 degrees.
airwolf_durango 
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Posted: January 09, 2013 at 10:05 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the info SoundandSecurity. Have you ever used refurbished stuff?
smokeman1 
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Posted: January 09, 2013 at 10:55 AM / IP Logged  

SoundnSecurity is correct on the units being the the same, but with a different name. I have used several of the refurb units. I have one in my work truck for three years and a Viper 5701 in my daughters 2006 Ford Focus for over three years with no issues. There are on warrenty for these units from the manufactor.

You may find some that state non 18 pin. It doen't mean much. Older units have a 7 pin harness. 18 pin units combine three harness into one, and the latest versions have a 24 pin harness.  But the all connect the same.  These are designed to installed by the pros and install info form DEI will be NONE.  There is enough info and help from this site to help you get it installed. 

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airwolf_durango 
Copper - Posts: 55
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Posted: January 09, 2013 at 11:33 AM / IP Logged  

Ok great, I appreciate the offer to help. I have to imagine that not much is going to change in regards to the relays I installed to isolate my 2nd IGN and 2nd ACC or the door triggers and lock diodes and resistors that i added.

Refurbished sounds like a plan.............thanks for the verification.

airwolf_durango 
Copper - Posts: 55
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Posted: January 09, 2013 at 12:19 PM / IP Logged  

I got the go ahead from the wife to spend some more money on a refurbished remote start based on the conversations we have had here. If you don't mind, I have a couple of more questions:

The transponder bypass that I installed was also bought in 2004 and is not supported by anyone so I am going to junk that as well. The car is a 2002 Durango 4.7 with the grey keys. Any suggestions for a particular new bypass and thoughts on getting a keyless one over one that requires a key.

Also something that keeps weighing on my mind is that I cannot get verification if this car was made with a factory alarm. There is an arm/disarm wire and by using different resistors it could be used to lock and unlock if there was an alarm. I don't see an alarm box under the dash nor does it test as if there is one. I can lock the door with the factory remote and open it with a key or reach in the window and open it. I called Dodge but have not gotten a response. I assume that all the harnesses have the disarm/arm wire but all cars don't have the alarm. Any help on further verification of this.

Thank you

smokeman1 
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Posted: January 09, 2013 at 3:20 PM / IP Logged  

Roll down the drivers window, close the door and lock it with the factory keyfob if you have one. Wait a few min, reach in the open window and open the door. If the horn honks and lights flash, factroy alarm. If nothing, I would try it all again and wait for 5 min or so.

Bypass, I would look at Fortin INT-SL+. One key needed for programming, no key required for operation.

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airwolf_durango 
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Posted: January 09, 2013 at 3:38 PM / IP Logged  

Ok thanks...........I'll try it again and wait like you said.

I'll check out that bypass as well..thanks.

airwolf_durango 
Copper - Posts: 55
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Posted: January 09, 2013 at 5:41 PM / IP Logged  
smokeman1 wrote:

Roll down the drivers window, close the door and lock it with the factory keyfob if you have one. Wait a few min, reach in the open window and open the door. If the horn honks and lights flash, factroy alarm. If nothing, I would try it all again and wait for 5 min or so.

Bypass, I would look at Fortin INT-SL+. One key needed for programming, no key required for operation.

Ok, i tried it like you said and no alarm.......but.........i finally got a hold of our dodge dealer and they plugged in the VIN and it came back that it has a forced entry alarm but not an alarm for breaking a window. I don't know how to verify that and I am assuming that the method you described simulates a broken window. If I didn't fry the unit I have, I could have just unhooked the door lock/unlock trigger and added the arm/disarm trigger with the appropriate resistors. Maybe I can have someone check th eunit to see what fried. It could be just a protection diode.

So with this knew info, and keep in mind the people at Dodge admittingly don't even understand what a forced entry alarm is so I am still skeptical, would the car not being disarmed cause the lack of remote to unit communication and activation I was experiencing? I would imagine so and it kind of explains why I couldn't unlock the doors with the remote since they are part of the arm/disarm trigger.

Thoughts?

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