2010 toyota highlander

I was looking for the remote start and security vehicle wiring info for a 2010 Toyota Highlander standard edition. Thanks for the help!

For vehicle wiring, here are some sources :

Here is a link to Bulldog Security :  http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

Here is a link to Ready Remote :  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp

Here is a link to AudioVox :  http://techservices.audiovox.com/AccessRequest.aspx    Sign-up & info is free.

Soldering is fun!

So, I have done my research on the sites provided above and I found some discrepancies between the wiring databases. I have decided to stick with the Directwire wiring information, as it has always been accurate for me in the past. I am an ex installer from former circuit city and best buy and I still do it every now and then on the side etc. My question and concern is that I am re installing a viper 791XV with a PTKI XK05 module into a 2010 Toyota Highlander. My first question is; Will the XK05 be the best module for this install or should I go with a DBALL? The Highlander is NOT equipped with a smart key and is NOT a hybrid model. I'd rather just install the XK05 since its already purchased and it is what the DirectTechs sheet called for but I have always heard from other installers to just always buy a dball for newer cars etc. My second concern is that in the ignition harness the Accessory(gray), Second Starter(red), and Second Ignition (lt. blue) are all listed and test as the correct wires for the install but the problem i am concerned with is that they are like 18-22ga. wires and I am absolutely certain they are not meant to carry the current output by my viper 791XV. But with that being said I am wondering if they are just signal wires to an  internal relay system? and I can hook my heavy gauge wires into them since they won't be pulling higher amounts of current since they would be "trigger" wires? Any other heads up or precautionary measures that I haven't ran into yet would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Also, in the past I have little or no experience with integrating a remote starter/alarm system into a vehicle with a second starter. My first question with this is; I do not want this system to utilize the starter kill function through the aftermarket alarm. Can I leave the starter input wire unhooked and just tap the starter output wire from the remote start into the vehicle starter wire? I beleive the answer is yes but I wasn't sure what to do with the second starter wire in the vehicle which is a small gauge wire. about 18-22ga red wire at the ignition harness. do I need to involve relays?

Thanks again for the help

Please forgive me but if you don't know what to do with a 2nd Starter wire, please don't install remote starters in ANY vehicle. Rusty or not, you should know the basics of powering additional connections (2nd starter or otherwise). I wouldn't normally say this to most installers but a seasoned or former "big retail" installer should know these things. Then again.......... The XK05 (in my opinion) is junk as are all the other DEI bypass modules. I would highly suggest an iDatalink ADS-ALCA which will control the factory alarm, door locks, power trunk/liftgate, immobilizer, tach and more. Even though a lot of those connections are easily accessible at the driver's kick and ignition harness also, the ADS-ALCA does it all via data. Not to mention they are way more reliable than DEI bypasses will ever be. You will need an account with ADS/idatalink to flash their modules but it's worth it. Less headaches in the long run. You may also want to look at the Fortin modules. They are also rock solid and most of them come preloaded with firmware so no flashing is needed. Just my 2 cents.......

X with Frank, 2nd starters have been around for at least 10 years so you should have known back then. We've all just dealt with an immobilised Camry where the installer failed to understand.

I failed to mention that I was missing two of the harnesses that usually comes with Viper 791XV and that I wasn't using typical relays. Guess that sentence never made it. I used a 551M in which I couldnt remember the relay posts to the corresponding wire colors. It's not that I don't know how to hook up extra power and relays its just that my typical way of doing it wasn't possible. But i figured it out. Anyway I decided to steer away from the XK05 and hook everything up old school with a 556UW. All is working except parking lights. I used the location and wire color according to DirectWire but its not triggering the parking lights, it tested when parking lights were activated but apparently its not the correct wire for parking light output. Also the mentioned location and color for hoodpin also isn't triggering or testing when hood is opened. Everything else its functioning as it should. The person who is getting this install wants me to avoid making them buy a 100 bypass etc. I'm very aware that one would make my life much easier at this point if I was installing one such as mentioned above. I may just have to tell them to get a bypass...

Thanks

Parking lights, light blue NEG switch white plug.

I roughed this up for a Tacoma, so it's about as near as you will get:- 14B_tacoma_wiring.bmp

yeah I tapped into the lt.blue wire in the white plug pin 18 if I remember correctly, at the parking light switch but it was just triggering the interior lights (dimming) only when the vehicle was running so I will have to check out the link you provided. thanks